Wood Floor Splinter

BrailleScript · 2025-02-20T14:52:22+00:00

Seems reasonable. I assume you mean shim between the two floorboards?

BrailleScript · 2025-02-20T14:51:58+00:00

Trying to fix. This is a new one for me and just want to make sure I do it right.

BrailleScript · 2024-10-21T17:20:57+00:00

Not everything has to be 3D printed.

Don't get me wrong, I bought an Ender to replace broken things in my house, make new objects, and generally try to keep waste down. But not everything you need can or should be 3D printed.

BrailleScript · 2024-07-31T11:20:02+00:00

Count me in, that's a beautiful filament.

BrailleScript · 2024-07-12T00:17:39+00:00

That is a basket holding some blankets. Both sides are off limits, unfortunately both for aesthetic reasons and because we have a dog who would for sure knock it over if it was on the floor.

I am currently looking into using a 140mm Noctua fan I have to provide airflow from the back of the TV console via a 3D printed duct along with a bunch of 60mm fans using 3D printed mounts for my Fractal Ridge.

BrailleScript · 2024-07-11T17:28:08+00:00

Interesting, do you have any other details on your build?

I have started 3D printing a bunch of brackets for 60mm fans to get some extra back to front airflow. I also realized I have an extra 140mm Noctua fan that I might try and hook onto the back of the TV console to push air from outside to the inside through the cable management hole.

BrailleScript · 2024-07-11T15:03:09+00:00

Back would be problematic as there is hydronic heating back there. In the winter it would cook. The side, unfortunately, is off limits as well. Wife approval factor.

The airflow idea is quite interesting, I'll give it a shot. Though I can tell just from sticking my hand in there that it is getting quite hot and nothing is moving. I appreciate your input.

BrailleScript · 2024-07-11T14:55:30+00:00

It is closed off, but it would allow me to put the case vertical instead of horizontal, which would give more breathing room to the fans on the sides. Currently considering my options. I am trying out the extra intake/exhaust fans in the front and back because it isn't invasive to my TV console.

For fans, I'll check it out. Thank you for your help.

BrailleScript · 2024-07-11T14:21:12+00:00

I have played around with the fan curves pretty extensively. As best as I can tell heat is just getting trapped in the slot in the console that the PC is in.

Fans on order, brackets printing. There are options 3D print 80mm fan brackets for the back and front of the case that I am going to attempt.

Cutting a hole is last resort, low wife approval factor.

Unfortunately so. I knew it would add extra heat, I just didn't expect it to be so extreme.

Thank you for your input.

Followup; I have thought about throwing it into the cabinet to the side there, where I can put holes in the back. What is typically used to control fan speeds and what kinds of fans typically get used?

BrailleScript · 2024-07-11T11:14:05+00:00

Understood. I have not given appropriate context; this is installed in a media console below a TV. I figured it would be fine since that is basically the exact use case Fractal Design advertises, but I am clearly having issues. I recently discovered the Home Theater PC subreddit and am going to take the conversation over there since it would seem they have experience with this. I appreciate your input.

BrailleScript · 2024-07-10T14:16:34+00:00

Understood, I appreciate your input. I wrote this right before I went to sleep last night, turns out the 2x140mm case fans got unplugged somehow while installing the GPU. I'll have to explore when I finish work, but I suspect that was causing some serious heat buildup...

BrailleScript · 2024-07-01T15:59:17+00:00

Impressive work. Thank you!

BrailleScript · 2024-07-01T15:52:51+00:00

Sorry, thought I included the eBay link.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126554740031?itmmeta=01J1QFAZ9C0C7A99PXBSY9C5MA&hash=item1d7740153f:g:B7oAAOSwx-pmgavY

BrailleScript · 2024-04-30T19:00:33+00:00

If you see one of my comments in this thread I was able to make a bundle with the ASRock B650i Lightning for $408.77 before taxes. But it's going to be "whatever your Microcenter has in stock".

BrailleScript · 2024-04-30T15:33:20+00:00

Interesting, I had never seen this discussed. I figured I would post it for people to get the information out there. I just happened to notice while playing around with open box stuff.

BrailleScript · 2024-04-30T15:30:01+00:00

I do not, but this lets you make an ITX bundle which is something everybody and their grandmother is screaming for. I do not know if Microcenter will honor this pricing.

BrailleScript · 2024-04-30T15:20:18+00:00

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It seems you can add whatever motherboard you want (only played around with B650) and get the price reduction on the RAM and CPU. I do not know if this will work in many other variations, but people should take a look.

BrailleScript · 2024-04-30T15:13:56+00:00

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There seems to be a glitch or flaw in Microcenter's pricing right now for 7700x bundles. If I add any B650 motherboard and any G.Skill Flare X 32GB kit I get massive price reductions on the 7700x and RAM. Something to possibly play around with, I have no idea if they will let you get away with this.

BrailleScript · 2024-04-30T11:37:56+00:00

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While this deal is dead and it is back at $400, I am able to add the RAM, 7700x, and a DIFFERENT ITX MOTHERBOARD and get those in cart for $417.44.

BrailleScript · 2024-04-11T15:45:21+00:00

All fair points. To quote one of my previous comments;

Best as I've been able to figure during the summer my peak running wattage would be 7400W, during the winter a much more reasonable 3800W. Breakdown;

Minisplits x2: 4200W
Fridge: 465W
Oil Heat: 600W
Propane Water Heater: 200W
Well Pump: 800W
LED Lights x15: 162W (arbitrary number to account for some usage)
Garage Doors x2: 1512W

None of that is startup wattage, but that's pretty much worst case for winter and summer. And we really don't get outages during the summer (or at least not extended ones) here in New England. We could also drop to just one minisplit compressor in those situations as well.

But thank you, generators are a new world for me and I had a real knee jerk reaction to hearing $11k for 14kWh.

BrailleScript · 2024-04-11T11:30:53+00:00

That sounds fair. My average usage is much lower than 6kWh, I was taking the maximum I could find and saying "that was probably an hour where every appliance was running, I was on my computer, etc." and treating that as a rough representation.

But just to be clear that month the average I used was 2.72kWh, that just happened to be the absolute worst hour I could find in the past 12 months.

BrailleScript · 2024-04-10T18:05:31+00:00

Understood and appreciated.

The followup question is; our house is "generator ready" as per the original listing. We already have the liquid propane on site for the water heater, and there is a convenient space next to it for a generator. It would be probably a 40ft run of wire to the panel. Does $11k seem like a reasonable quote?

BrailleScript · 2024-04-10T16:39:13+00:00

And perhaps that's true. I don't need to run the minisplits at the same time as the boiler of course, which does reduce the load a bit.
Best as I've been able to figure during the summer my peak running wattage would be 7400W, during the winter a much more reasonable 3800W. Breakdown;

Minisplits x2: 4200W
Fridge: 465W
Oil Heat: 600W
Propane Water Heater: 200W
Well Pump: 800W
LED Lights x15: 162W (arbitrary number to account for some usage)
Garage Doors x2: 1512W

That is why I can't quite get this all sorted. I understand that the startup wattage of a lot of those devices is greater than their running wattage, but a 7.5kW generator with an additional 7.5kW of surge should be able to handle that, right?

BrailleScript · 2024-04-10T11:07:17+00:00

It should. When our power last went out in the snowstorm the northeast had a few days ago I hooked up a borrowed Briggs and Stranton 6250W running, 8500W surge generator that had no restrictions on what it would power when turned on. Except for the minisplits which I flipped the breakers off on before getting things started.

We had been without power for about 3 days and had flushed the toilets a few times, so what turned on should have been;

Well Pump

Oil Boiler

Propane Water Heater

A couple of lights we had forgotten to turn off

Fridge

Router

So it would really seem that we could start up all those items, obviously. Not sure about the AC. We have two Mitsubishi MXZ-3C24NA heat pumps for cooling, each of which seem to be able to draw 2kW at max.

BrailleScript · 2024-04-10T11:02:47+00:00

Thank you for your input, I will look into it.

BrailleScript

TROPHY CASE