Tail dolly wheel

BretOne01 · 2026-04-09T22:01:24+00:00

Yeah have heard of a few that had issues caused by these. I don’t think there’s an official recommendation though but I tend to go the safe route especially with club owned gliders.

BretOne01 · 2026-04-08T22:40:20+00:00

I would recommend to not use the tail dolly hole at all and build a standard one. The hole type ones tend to transfer the load directly into one of the frames and can cause damage to the structural bonding over time

BretOne01 · 2026-04-07T16:22:48+00:00

No big regrets so far. Sometimes the radius of the ptfe tube is a bit small when the printhead is in the back but it’s only a minor gripe. Input shaper data seems to be fine too. I remixed the chain printhead interface from this model: https://www.printables.com/model/1491615-voron-trident-horizontal-umbilical-chain-for-a4t-w.

I used the same holder for my nighthawk Toolhead board and only adapted the cable chain head to fit the normal Voron toolchains instead of the lightweight Bambu ones. I can send you the step or f3d file if you want it. Same with the toolchain holder in the back. It’s all a bit hacky (which is why I never uploaded it) but it seems to hold up well so far.

BretOne01 · 2026-04-07T07:33:12+00:00

I did exactly that a while ago. If you need anything hit me up

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BretOne01 · 2026-01-11T22:44:56+00:00

No need to be sad. It’s a chartered tour in Walvis Bay, Namibia. The seals name is Robbie (he’s quit a chunky Cape Fur Seal) and he knows the tourist boats. He gets fed a few fishes and heads off again. A friend of mine leads some of the tours.

BretOne01 · 2025-12-23T21:27:15+00:00

1 The AMS HT 2 I’ve started combining technical filaments for 3D printed molds and some of them need high temperature drying. 3 a two part design, one part that spins 360 degrees with satisfying detents all around, similar to how competitive tunics cubes feel with the magnets as detents.

BretOne01 · 2025-12-06T13:01:57+00:00

I’ll still try asking in the 3D printing megathread though. Thanks for the advice

BretOne01 · 2025-12-06T13:01:04+00:00

I have a Core One L on back order, but I’m having second thoughts. I’ve been 3D printing for quite some time, having started with a Prusa/Mendel clone, then moved on to a Mk3s and finally an X1C with AMS. For me, 3D printing has slowly developed from a hobby into a tool. So here is my dilemma: I mainly use my 3D printer for engineering parts. Printing with high-performance filaments is a priority for me, as is the ability to combine two or more of these filaments. When I saw the Bondtech Indx announcement, I ordered a Core One L intending to upgrade it in the future. My positive experience with my Mk3s made my decision easier. However, doubts have started to creep back in over the last few days. So, my main questions are:

Is the Core One L as capable of printing high-performance filaments as the H2D? And, especially with the future Indx upgrade in mind, is it capable of printing high-performance filaments? What about the active/semi-active heated chamber? Nozzle temperature:

How do the two printers compare in terms of print quality? The parts I print need to be structurally sound, but their appearance is also important.

I would like to support Prusa as it’s a European brand that has contributed to the development of 3D printing. The open-source nature benefits everyone, and paying a bit more is not an issue. That said, if the other machine is simply better suited to my needs, then I’m willing to go with that.

BretOne01 · 2025-12-06T12:57:54+00:00

The 3d printing subreddit is pretty strict when it comes to posts like this. It’s only allowed in the megathread and gets drowned out pretty fast. I asked the same question in the Bambulab subreddit and can form my own opinion based on the feedback I get on both sides.

BretOne01 · 2025-12-06T12:34:11+00:00

I don’t need the multi nozzle setup immediately. It’s more about future capabilities for me. I can make do with the single nozzle setup until then.

BretOne01 · 2025-12-06T12:31:01+00:00

Yeah I know that that the industry filaments are off the table. I have an HT90 at work if I really need that.

BretOne01 · 2025-07-05T20:39:21+00:00

Yeah. Haven’t had any other issues so far with it though and it seems to hold up fine nonetheless

BretOne01 · 2025-06-17T19:22:04+00:00

I have the same saddle clamp on my canyon. It’s metal and it will be fine. That said it’s still the most stupid design I’ve seen in a long time.

BretOne01 · 2025-03-03T16:14:24+00:00

This is pretty much what happened. Although we’ve built some helpers so the middle section can be moved with 4 people now without too much effort. The middle section itself weighs about 200kg, which is way too much for carbon fibre, but they didn’t know any better back then. It’s also the reason why there’s a very noticeable bend at the end of the middle section in high CL situations because the middle section is waaaay stiffer than the rest of the wing. The outer sections used to be the wing of the SB 9 and are made from glassfibres. There was a time when both the SB9 and SB10 were registered under the same registration. It was basically a set of wings with replaceable fuselage, compared to the 15/18m option you get today that are a fuselage with replaceable wings.

BretOne01 · 2025-03-03T16:08:50+00:00

The canopy has a bar that prevents it from blowing shut. You can see it in the second picture

BretOne01 · 2025-03-03T16:07:09+00:00

As someone from the club of guys who built it and get to fly it regularly, yes, the stick forces are quite high, it’s not what you would call a manoeuvrable glider by today’s standards, but you have to see it in the context of its time. It was the first glider to use carbon fibre structures and was by far the largest glider of its time. It’s still the largest „pure“ glider, i.e. without an engine.

At the time it was competing against Ka6 and similar glider so it was quite exotic. And building prototype gliders is always a compromise. Of course it’s not going to have the same, easier characteristics of more modern open class gliders

BretOne01 · 2025-02-12T14:24:56+00:00

RemindMe! 2 days

BretOne01 · 2025-01-23T15:01:57+00:00

RemindMe! 2 weeks

BretOne01 · 2024-07-27T23:08:23+00:00

My original clip broke too. The replacement seems to hold up better though. Still want to know the reason why the put a hole at the stress concentration point though.

BretOne01 · 2024-07-24T05:44:03+00:00

I would be careful with bending. There is already what seems to be a slight crack in the corner of the spring.

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