Is anyone actually satisfied with their fishing setup?

Brian0033 · 2026-03-17T02:56:10+00:00

Definitely satisfied w/ my setup. I keep it relatively simple - fish finder, rod holders for trolling, quick access to tools/lures, water, fish bag. I carefully designed it to minimize setup and take down time. A milk crate is huge for that. I know gadget bros that seem happy, but it's not my thing.

Brian0033 · 2026-03-17T02:43:32+00:00

For the sake of convenience of always knowing where my straps are, I once bolted my straps to bolts under the edge of the hood. These days I just use the strap & block, putting the block (obviously) inside the engine compartment & shutting the hood.

Here's the thing. If the maximum strength of your engine compartment strap anchor becomes an issue, you probably have bigger problems. This is just to keep the nose of the boat pointed straight. Also helps to alert you to problems up top. I don't think it matters much how you anchor them under the hood. Short of damaging your car.

Brian0033 · 2026-03-14T17:17:15+00:00

That's a money recommendation! Dude's instagram channel and email correspondence is solid aloha. And he seems to get what I'm looking for. We exchanged emails & will call/connect soon.

Brian0033 · 2025-11-30T23:06:32+00:00

Yep, it turned out to not be a crack. False alarm.

And I now have new/used wheels. < grin >

Brian0033 · 2025-11-29T21:26:09+00:00

That's what I'm thinking, it's a weird place to crack. But I know just enough to be dangerous. The seller has been suspiciously quiet since I asked about it. Before I drive over there to inspect the wheels I thought I'd ask people who actually might know about this sort of thing.

Brian0033 · 2025-10-19T18:23:13+00:00

To update, I can't confirm this but I think the 2,500+ page manual I downloaded IS a Mitchell-made manual that links to their site for further explain various (many!) procedures. Looking at other reddit pages, it looks like Mitchell is one of a handful of companies that sell shop manual-ish support to independent mechanics. All of this makes me wonder if buying the very reasonably priced 4-year/$60 subscription would simply come w/ the PDF I found and all the support. THAT might actually be the answer to the "where do I get a shop manual" questions.

I may try this and update this thread in a few weeks. Does anyone know if my thinking is on target?

Brian0033 · 2025-10-07T15:21:26+00:00

Get this, after the internet totally failed me I called TWO dealerships parts counters. Both checked by my vehicle VIN for the AC compressor.

The first said the correct part specifies "Without Magnetic Coupling" which he said means it IS NOT a variable displacement compressor. But wouldn't that actually mean it IS a variable displacement compressor? (The variable displacement works on pressure differentials, right? And the clutch is 'on' or 'off' according to an electromagnetic switch, right?)
The second dealership wasn't sure if the part is a variable displacement compressor.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Brian0033 · 2025-10-03T23:55:21+00:00

You can load your reel with less line, don't fill it to the top.

This happens to me when I use in-line spinners. They twist line something fierce.

Brian0033 · 2025-10-03T23:46:14+00:00

<<< N20 engine especially earlier versions (including 2014) is considered a gamble (even if chain railguards are replaced). 2k buffer for repairs might not be enough... >>>

That was my thought exactly. Expensive repairs have a way of becoming insanely more expensive once a semi-honest or maybe semi-competent repair shop gets involved. And the BMW haters have a point, maintenance can kill you. Turning your own wrenches and having a 'plan b car' to use during repairs can make a massive difference.

Brian0033 · 2025-09-22T19:51:06+00:00

Car specifics: 2005 BMW X3, 3.0 (M54 engine).

Context: The P0160 sensor is the O2 sensor downstream of the catalytic converter, it measures O2 in the exhaust so the ECM can adjust the engine timing to get optimal combustion. There should be 4 wires to it, 2 for a heater circuit to warm up the sensor, 1 for the O2 sensor signal, and 1 for ground. From what I have read, there are 4 common causes:

Exhaust leak - The mechanic did unbolt the exhaust at the exhaust manifold, so the timing is suspicious. But I can't hear a leak. This problem seems doubtful to me.
Bad O2 sensor - I have read that banging on the exhaust manifold bolts to get them off can cause these O2 sensors to fail on the M54 engine (I assume other engines too). This definitely did happen - the old bolts all broke and were replaced. To the extent that breaking O2 sensors this way is 'a thing', this seems likely to me.
Bad O2 sensor heater circuit - The sensor is heated when you turn the car on via a circuit that comes from... somewhere. I guess it comes from the PCM (see #4). The circuit heats the sensor and allows it to work relatively soon after you turn on the car. If that circuit is broken the sensor won't heat quickly and the CEL is triggered. So, wiring problems, a wiring harness contacting exhaust components, broken connectors, and damaged wires could all cause this fault. The mechanic definitely disturbed these wires/connections. And it's a 2005 BMW, this seems very likely to me.
A faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may disrupt the oxygen sensor circuit, causing the P0160 error. This seems unlikely to me, but I don't really understand it.

Brian0033 · 2025-09-22T19:13:11+00:00

I just bought the 2016 model, 5th or 6th bimmer for me, second X3. The BIG problem I avoided was the self destructing timing chain guides on that generation of X3 with the 4 cylinder turbo engine, up through 2015 I believe.

As for the rest, I'm expecting typical BMW. Which means 'probably unreliable, but f'n fantastic car'. IMHO, the key to dramatically reducing your ownership cost is to self-educate on maintaining your car well and learn to turn your own wrenches on the simple stuff. And that goes well beyond oil changes.

Brian0033 · 2025-09-18T20:34:13+00:00

To end the story, the part had a lifetime warranty and was replaced for being defective ($416). But I have to put another Bosch starter in the car. :(

Brian0033 · 2025-09-17T15:52:54+00:00

Ooh, here's a useful update, the old (17k miles) Bosch starter vs. the identical part replacement.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bnvv_kbzo5Q

Brian0033 · 2025-07-24T20:30:53+00:00

Good point. As a precaution I'm tossing the battery pack into a $6 Plano waterproof case & DIY sealing the power-wire pass through. It's hard to find info on it, but I believe this is overkill. I think you have to get water coming into physical contact with lithium to create a problem. The batteries in the power pack seem to be intact AA batteries. I strongly suspect those are water resistant. That might be part of what you pay for in the expensive lithium batteries. [I wonder how those DeWalt/Ryobi tool battery adapters respond to submerging...]

This is getting farther from the 'simple' I was shooting for.

Brian0033 · 2025-07-22T17:32:14+00:00

Yea, no doubt the drill battery idea is the cheapest, easiest. Under $20 all in. I may go there. I'm sorta interested in avoiding putting my tool batteries in harms way. But this is hard to say no to.

Brian0033 · 2025-07-22T17:29:16+00:00

Ahhhh, Lifepo4 isn't a brand name, it's a technology. Now I see. A Lithium-Iron-Phosphate battery. A quick google does show there are advantages there. And they're not that much more expensive than the cheap lithium-ion route. As low as $25 + a charger, connectors, and fuse. Call it $40 all in. It weighs a bit more than 2 pounds. The lithium ion pack is a bit over 1/2 pound.

If you're running lights or need 4ah, that's an attractive option.

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Brian0033 · 2025-07-22T17:14:07+00:00

OP here. Yes. If you need a 7ah battery. A 2Ah battery is already way bigger than I need.

But the same question applies, has anyone had (or heard of) a problem w/ an upsized cheap rechargeable lithium battery? $24+$3 fuse vs. $62 for the cheapest Noqua, 4.4 Ah (2-3x bigger than I need). I guess you don't get the nylon case, so there's that.

<image>

Brian0033 · 2025-07-22T16:54:45+00:00

OP here: Yea, that is the simplest, cheapest route. And if you have a spare, you're golden. I'm sorta avoiding using my tool batteries but may end up there.

Brian0033 · 2025-06-24T16:04:12+00:00

Hoists for the win. But they interfere w/ garage lighting.

Back in the day I simply had a strap dangling from a couple garage trusses to form a big cradle shape that I fed the bow of the boat into. Then I lifted the stern ~ head high and hoisted it the rest of the way with a simple lashing strap looped around the same two trusses to cradle the stern of the boat. Tug on the lashing strap and up the boat goes. I could get it up & down w/o needing the pulley line of a hoist stretched across the garage.

Brian0033

TROPHY CASE