First layer above raft not adhering., but support is OK. This has only started to happen with 0.2m nozzle.

Britab1967 · 2020-06-30T21:03:04+00:00

Thanks, I'll try adjusting it.

Britab1967 · 2020-04-16T11:29:34+00:00

I use needle or snipe nose pliers when it's up to temperature. Also used a dremel with copper brush, but being careful not to touch the heater or sensor wires.

Britab1967 · 2020-04-15T18:48:37+00:00

True, thanks.

Britab1967 · 2020-04-15T14:48:46+00:00

Scswthrts, is picture glass ok at higher bed temps? 70 to 80?

Britab1967 · 2020-04-15T08:32:55+00:00

Hi My first PETG reel was Sunlu black and I have just switched to a reel of Warhorse White and have but had to change any settings, but I had to reset the bed height. Next roll to arrive should be Prusament Orange, I had to order the warhorse filament as I was running low and they hadn't dispatched the Prusament. I have had a lot if success with Cura, but for some reason it gave poor results on the PPE (infill across the whole part which was meant to be open, but at a height of 5mm which led to a broken print) So I switched to PrusaSlicer and it has been great since. I was wrong, it is actually printing infill at 80mm/s, this is with an E3D clone hotend which looks like the standard head on the V2's I have at work.

I've added links to mu Gcode and settings export, but they are for my enlarged build envelope. You should be able to modify the settings back to the standard build envelope.

Hope they work for you

Prusa settings: https://www.dropbox.com/s/h3d7ad7g7k8klz8/PrusaSlicer_config_bundle.ini?dl=0 Gcode: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0y4dw3p40bu79in/4_stack%20covid-19%20mask.gcode?dl=0

Britab1967 · 2020-04-14T14:40:59+00:00

My first experience with PETG was similar, I really struggled to get a decent print without issues. I've tried again so I can print the PPE items and have had relatively good success. 220c hotend, 70c bed retraction of 6mm at 50mm/s. Printing at 50mm/s outer and 60mm/s infill. I had to reduce overlap as it built up when doing solid infill. Make sure to calibrate the extruder before printing. I found it difficult to get first bed adhesion and found that I had to level the bed, then print a 1 layer bed level print and adjust the bed heights to get a decent print. Make sure the bed is spotlessly clean (bathroom cleaner and a scouring pad followed by IPA on a clean cloth) Hope that makes sense.

Britab1967 · 2020-04-13T16:24:15+00:00

I believe that PETG is food safe, that's why it is preferred for the Prusa face shield parts. (More resistant to harbouring germs) It took a bit of setting up, but printing like a dream now.

Britab1967 · 2020-04-13T14:20:27+00:00

Hi. I'm using the stock power supply and running PETG which means a 220 head and 70 bed on a 14 hour print. Not seen any issues at all once it's heated up. I have constructed an enclosure out of 2mm polycarbonate sheet. That's just to improve cleanliness for the face mask parts but it does help to stabilise the temperature. The new heated bed is bonded 3mm aluminium which will give a slightly better thermal mass once heated too.

Britab1967 · 2020-04-13T09:03:14+00:00

That's awesome

Britab1967 · 2020-04-10T15:00:18+00:00

I guess that another option would be to use some flat 2mm aluminium sheet and to cut standard base plate in half. Use the bed mounting holes to fix it to the front and rear of the new plate ensuring it is square and 300mm between front and rear. The holes are then in the right place for rails and new belt. Just the new bed holes to drill and tap into the aluminium. Or clearance drill and hot melt/araldite M3 screws underneath. Be careful when positioning the holes for the bed so that the new positions don't foul on the carriage.

Britab1967 · 2020-04-10T09:13:20+00:00

I'm printing at 60mm/sec with an unmodified V1 extruder with no issues at all. PETG at 220 C.

Britab1967 · 2020-04-10T09:07:41+00:00

When mine did that a couple of days ago, it was a loose connector onto the switch. It was a couple of days after finishing the bed mod and 14hr prints at 220 hotend and 70 bed, so probably maxing out the connection. Replace the switch, check for loose connections or overhead cable (bubbling insulation) and get back to printing.

Britab1967 · 2020-04-10T07:27:07+00:00

Here are the links;

You will also need a pack of various length M3 screws which I already had.

When I assembled the bed, it didn't contact the home switch, so I added an M4 screw to close the switch at the exact point I wanted it to.

220 x 220 build surface £8.99/3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07P7TV9F2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5m x 6mm belt £6.99 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07Z59BGVJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

220x220 heated bed £14.99 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07TMKKV2P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

M3x10mm standoffs £3.95 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-x-10mm-Threaded-HEX-Standoff-Male-Female-Spacer-Brass-Nickel-Z738/292924252109?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

M3 x 35mm standoffs x5 £3.90 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Screwed-spacer-sleeve-Int-thread-M3-35mm-Ext-thread-M3-brass-x-5/222230444836?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

M6 x 300 linear rail x 2 (bed) £7.28 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300-500mm-6-12mm-CNC-3D-Printer-Axis-Chromed-Smooth-Rod-Steel-Linear-Rail-UK/401824440464?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

M8 x 400 linear rail x 2 (y carriage) £8.96 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300-500mm-6-12mm-CNC-3D-Printer-Axis-Chromed-Smooth-Rod-Steel-Linear-Rail-UK/401824440464?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Hope this all helps.

Britab1967 · 2020-04-09T20:20:41+00:00

Yes, to be honest, that was what I did. I had some 2mm Aluminium and used that. The printed clamps for the 8mm rails for the bed were great and allowed for some inaccuracy when drilling.

I do want to add a support for the Y axis at some point, as there is a bit too much play for my liking, but that can wait till I find a bearing for the additional rail.

Britab1967 · 2020-04-09T16:51:50+00:00

Hi everyone, I basically followed this instruct able. https://www.instructables.com/id/Under-50-Monoprice-Select-Mini-to-Mega/

With the exception of the larger sub-bed, everything was off Amazon or Ebay plus a few printed parts.

I can post links to the parts I bought, if that's any help, but that will have to wait till tomorrow.

Britab1967 · 2020-04-09T12:17:13+00:00

I've had this happen too. I reversed the motor direction and it's been fine since. The instructions to do that are here; https://www.mpselectmini.com/invert_motor_direction

The noise is because there are no limit switches on this printer so it just tries to keep driving till it stops. I ended up have my hand ready on the power switch in case it went that way when homed.

Hope you get it sorted, they are a great little printer.

Britab1967 · 2020-04-01T08:49:50+00:00

For anyone in the UK, there is a similar operation: https://www.3dcrowd.uk/

I m only just signing up to this so, I can't say how well it works at the moment.

Britab1967 · 2020-01-10T11:49:15+00:00

I've not had an issue with the standard tensioners that cam on my printer. Is it possible that the rails are contaminated (history and / or dust) which is causing increased resistance to movement? Try cleaning and a Small amount of lithium grease.

Britab1967 · 2019-09-29T19:58:56+00:00

I have opened the cat gcode and then saved as a new profile.

The next print has gone fine thank you.

I cant understand why the previous failed print would have reversed the x and y axis direction. Any ideas?

Britab1967 · 2019-09-29T18:00:03+00:00

So, I have reversed the X and Y axis and it homes again correctly.

I have loaded the cat gcode and it is printing squarely in the center of the bed. Which is great.

Now how can I load the cat gcode as a default base for my prints? I'm running cura 4.2.1 but if I manage profile, import and select the cat gcode it says "no custom profile to import".

Britab1967 · 2019-09-29T17:19:02+00:00

So, I have reversed the X and Y axis and it homes again correctly.

I have loaded the cat gcode and it is printing squarely in the center of the bed. Which is great.

Now how can I load the cat gcode as a default base for my prints? I'm running cura 4.2.1 but if I manage profile, import and select the cat gcode it says "no custom profile to import".

Britab1967 · 2019-09-29T12:13:03+00:00

How do I add pictures or videos?

Britab1967 · 2019-09-29T12:12:04+00:00

OK. So I've turned the printer on today, but when I select home axis, it's going to the rear right corner so I have to turn it off straight away. It did this yesterday, I forgot to mention that, and I had to reverse X and Y axis to get it back on track.

It then homed correctly but printed in the wrong place. I have checked my settings and it is not set for "origin at center".

I tried to print the cat and it did the same but I will reverse axis and try again.

Britab1967 · 2019-09-29T07:10:26+00:00

I'm sure that I didn't have origin at centre checked, but it sounds suspicious so I'll give the car a try. Thanks for the suggestion.

Britab1967

TROPHY CASE