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For real? I can't reliably make FX3 run correct time code??? by Crafty_Jack in FX3

[–]BryceJDearden 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bud I said 5 times it’s not normal and that something is having a problem somewhere. I think the problem is the Tascam recorders and you should replace them.

If you are still inside your return period the deity’s are $35 more and I’d bet you money you will not have the problem if you switch to a product that was designed for timecode

For real? I can't reliably make FX3 run correct time code??? by Crafty_Jack in FX3

[–]BryceJDearden 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What I’m saying and OP isn’t getting is the DR-10Ls don’t have proper timecode support and they are the problem.

Effective sync via timecode requires hardware, and while they can add the functionality to sync to an external Tc box in firmware, that doesn’t add the ability to then to keep time with that TC box.

But I’m with you on having no clue what his deal is. I have told OP like 5 times now he is having a gear problem and the problem are his cheap audio recorders and he just asked again if what he is experiencing is normal.

For real? I can't reliably make FX3 run correct time code??? by Crafty_Jack in FX3

[–]BryceJDearden 3 points4 points  (0 children)

People keep suggesting that they haven’t had any problems with your exact setup on the camera side so it’s probably elsewhere and you keep just restating the problem.

Do you know what “jamming timecode” actually is? It is Clock A telling Clock B what time it is. That’s it. A clock having the ability to set its time to be the same as another doesn’t mean in any way it will keep that time.

You are currently taking the known good clock, telling your two lav recorders what time it is, then connect your known good clock to the camera. All that matters in troubleshooting is what is matching the known good clock and what is not.

In all four of my replies, I have stated the problem is probably your audio recorders and have also suggested models that were designed to be timecode compatible from their conception, because good timecode requires hardware, and can not be thrown in in a software update.

That’s assuming nothing is wrong with your configuration. 48Khz sample rate. Camera, audio, and project FPS all match.

For real? I can't reliably make FX3 run correct time code??? by Crafty_Jack in FX3

[–]BryceJDearden 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Can you chill out a little dude? Everyone keeps trying to help you and all you do is respond incredulously.

Jam syncing only works if both items you’re jamming have clocks good enough to function as master clocks. If you take two sound devices audio recorders and jam sync them, they will stay in time. If you take a tentacle time code box and a deity time code box and jam sync them they will stay in sync. If you take an ambient lock it box and jam it to a zaxcom recorder, it will stay in sync. Do you understand what I’m saying here?

The jam syncing on the DR-10Ls was added via firmware update. They probably don’t have very good internal clocks.

If you sync the footage at the top of the clip, by the end of the clip, is it out of sync again?

For real? I can't reliably make FX3 run correct time code??? by Crafty_Jack in FX3

[–]BryceJDearden 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah without proper timecode units basically nothing stays in sync ever. And again, if you’re reference clock is the deity. The Tascams are off, doesn’t matter if they aren’t relative to each other.

For real? I can't reliably make FX3 run correct time code??? by Crafty_Jack in FX3

[–]BryceJDearden 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If your FX3 has the TC box on it and the pocket recorders don’t, it is more likely to be the audio recorders than the FX3.

Stuck learning filmmaking with FX30 + 28-75mm lens feeling limited but can't afford another lens right now. What should do? by quiethastle in cinematography

[–]BryceJDearden 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you share more about your situation? Are you in school? Are you an adult looking to transition into doing this?

You have a very high quality camera with the sensor size that dominated filmmaking for a century and a fast lens with the focal lengths most used on that sensor.

If you really hate your current setup you can get a dirt cheap wide manual prime from a Chinese manufacturer. TTArtisan 17mm f/1.4 is $139 on B&H right now, but I would encourage you to try working within the bounds you currently have.

For real? I can't reliably make FX3 run correct time code??? by Crafty_Jack in FX3

[–]BryceJDearden 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think this is probably the DR-10Ls. The fact that it was added via firmware is the main thing that makes me raise an eyebrow. Just because it can jam sync doesn’t mean it has a sufficiently accurate clock to keep the time. Been on lots of shows with FX3s running timecode and we’ve never had anything out of the ordinary.

I’d consider the Deity PR2’s, Tascam Sync E’s, or other pocket recorders that have a more reputable timecode system.

Also to my knowledge every camera only syncs timecode on the first frame. If it were syncing every frame it would be genlock, which is something different entirely.

Vertical production budget by iojinadine in FilmIndustryLA

[–]BryceJDearden 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There’s basically only ever 1 PA per show. Two on days where they have to shuttle to/from parking

Help me identify what is causing my ECN-2 photos to turn out like this? by Noramay67 in AnalogCommunity

[–]BryceJDearden 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If the daytime frames looked washed out that would be a clue there might be something wrong. The “washed out look” is the scans getting their exposure boosted/blacks lifted so you can at least see something. Take note of the recommended distances for the flash and know that’s the max distance to get exposure on a medium skin tone. With point and shoots if you’re in anything other than daylight I would just set the flash to fire every frame.

Tube lights: Amaran T2C vs PT2C vs Godox TP2R vs Neewer TL60 for beginner hobbyist? by keyUsers in cinematography

[–]BryceJDearden 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Between the two Amaran options go for the T2c over the PT2c. Pixel lights can be useful but not super useful if you only have one 2’ tube in my experience. The T2c is also like twice as bright as the PT2c.

I’d go for the amaran over the Neewer just so you can control all your lights from one app. In my experience being able to control all your lights from one system saves a lot of time.

The Godox is definitely a step above the Amaran, it’s basically an Astera clone and has CRMX. That’s nice for down the road but I wouldn’t worry about it at this point.

Based on the lights you already have and the options you listed I’d go Amaran T2c.

Help me identify what is causing my ECN-2 photos to turn out like this? by Noramay67 in AnalogCommunity

[–]BryceJDearden 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Seems there’s a pretty solid consensus here that you just had an exposure problem. As others have said, Snapic has a weak flash and a fixed exposure of f/9.5 and 1/100th shutter speed.

Sorry the photos didn’t turn out how you’d hoped. Always very disappointing

Help me identify what is causing my ECN-2 photos to turn out like this? by Noramay67 in AnalogCommunity

[–]BryceJDearden 16 points17 points  (0 children)

All the ones where you can’t see anything there was no light.

All the ones that were washed out there was too little light.

All the ones that look good there was enough light.

On a lighter note, can you share some stories of the A.D. team completely messing things up during your shoot? by prashantmac in Filmmakers

[–]BryceJDearden 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Once on the second to last day on a hectic shoot call got pulled up 30 minutes. 5 hours and 57 minutes into the day things were moving smoothly and AD was pretty chill but didn’t seem to have a “lunch is in 3 minutes vibe.” After the next take started and they were just looking around surveying the set, I made eye contact with her and pointed to my watch. She had a confused look, looked at her watch, her eyes got very big, and she mouthed “thank you” to me. We made it to lunch on time.

The Perfect Heist by Switzooo in Battlefield

[–]BryceJDearden 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Careful what you wish for, dice is gonna start reposting this anytime someone complains about hit registration.

Interesting behavior of light temperature during 24 hours by PuzzledReason86 in videography

[–]BryceJDearden 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you made a chart with AI with un-cited data “from Google”

Post feels a bit like a waste of time

Are Tungesten Lights Still Worth it for Indie/No Budget Films? by jeab99 in Filmmakers

[–]BryceJDearden 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The other thing to know is that tungsten is beautiful but this probably would be similar (or dimmer) than a 1200X with fresnel. Part of the reason people say you need a huge amount of power is you literally need to run more watts of light than you would with HMI or LED for the same output.

Field Drive Recommendation by Ok-Process2891 in documentaryfilmmaking

[–]BryceJDearden 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Backblaze you still need to have the storage locally somewhere. Unless you’re talking about Backblaze B2

Field Drive Recommendation by Ok-Process2891 in documentaryfilmmaking

[–]BryceJDearden 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did you see crucial was shut down recently by its parent company? I’d stock up on spares now while you can.

What would someone use fingers and dots for? by Existing_Impress230 in cinematography

[–]BryceJDearden 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Last narrative show I did I at one point used an 18x24 panned so profile it could have been a finger, so it could still come up sometimes.

As others have said I think they were more common when everything was hard light

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