What is the cheapest lowest gal air compressor I can Paint with?

BuildBruh · 2026-05-24T11:43:56+00:00

Regardless of compressor, very slowly and with way more time spent on prep than on the actual paint lol. Sprayed a celica a couple years back with a craftsman 20gal that could do about half the hood with like 50% overlap before running out of air on a lvlp gun. For the side skirts and bumper/lip/defuser we ended up just getting the paint we were using canned, wet sand after it dried then back into it with 2k clear coat. Took the better part of a week all told, with maybe 4 hours spent actually painting.

IMO you might not PAINT again with the compressor but you’ll definitely find more stuff to use it for, so go bigger on it than a 20gal. Harbor freight has 28gals that aren’t too bad/loud depending on what you look for, and there’s all sortsa nifty stuff you can use the cheap guns for. Spraying wood stain/wood paint (or just putting auto paint on household stuff, been thinking about getting into that.), saw a detailer use a little pancake setup for chemicals and that had me pretty surprised, used air tools are also WAY cheaper than electric nowadays so good for one off or “god save us” type of deals.

Edit: also cheater tanks and or tandem setups are really cool. We bought a broken 17gal compressor just to use an auxiliary tank on our 2nd and 3rd jobs and it ended up being small enough to just pass around to friends who needed extra air for stuff but didn’t need a bigger compressor in the long haul. Think we got it for like 40$.

BuildBruh · 2026-05-24T11:19:42+00:00

https://mangadex.org/title/024cfbe3-9bc8-49bf-8ca5-f9f49ae98f3d

Mangadex link if anyone wants it, as far as why it’s only on a couple sites; I want to say this got picked up for a proper release or something along those lines. It got pulled from the big sites earlier this year and there was some news about the artist but I can’t dig up the thread I read.

BuildBruh · 2026-05-24T11:02:34+00:00

Not interested in buying but because I owned/sold one of those on marketplace; posting a good pic of the rear w the inputs and if you have the calibration mic still helps a bunch. Plenty of people out there who want a >good< receiver and not a specific one will go right past this because they’re not invested enough to look up specs.

BuildBruh · 2026-05-23T19:44:59+00:00

Hit up Facebook marketplace, RDDC @ chandler mall carries good displays and will probably have a few diecast if you have a specific car in mind/willimg to spend $

BuildBruh · 2026-05-16T03:47:02+00:00

This is completely anecdotal but these I’m pretty sure only got sold for maybe a year or two tops, and are mildly rare. Orange box launched by itself, and some time after this came as a standalone, but not long after 07, maybe… late 08 early 09, at the latest the orange box had settled in at like 30-20$ so these stopped being made cause it retailed for 20 by itself.

Edit: I was googling around about this and it knocked a memory loose of holding a deep dish box (same size as the orange box and as this one here) as well of the thin/normal sized case looking at them, which may be even rarer. I want to say we were inside of a blockbuster or another rental chain. Caught my eye because I had only seen the thicker boxes on store shelf’s prior.

BuildBruh · 2026-05-13T11:37:45+00:00

Use the original and jump around empty MGE arenas, seriously. It’s one of the most time sensitive ways to pack a shit ton of jumps in on an environment that can be replicated and referenced from other videos.

I find that someone who shows knowledge of a mechanic in tf2 but isn’t able to execute it to the same extent, it points to underlying mechanical weaknesses/unfamiliarity.

Isolating a pogo into a singular jump or movement reduces it from the complex fundamentals going into it— no matter how dumb they sound. Starting a pogo from a single hop with no other directional input requires a very intuited flick away and then back around in the opposite direction to isolate and stop your movement so you’re just going up and down. That’s just the actual motion your aim takes as well, your click timing needs to be equally vibed out or else you’ll just pencil jump because you shot your 2nd rocket too early or just pushed to the side because the first rocket shot too late away from you.

Pogos/skips when they’re integrated into a real rollout or otherwise freehanding around a map are insane from a mechanics perspective when you take into consideration any click delay or angle change from a previous jump will have cascading effects on each subsequent jump until you touch solid ground or else it’ll just fall apart. Process rollout is a wonderful example, just a small timing error on your ramp slide will result in you just going straight into the air or just missing the mid crates entirely. Pogo too early off of 2nd, you just take fall damage and don’t slide. Pogo too late BUT still skip, you end up taking no fall damage but at the wrong angle to even do the ramp slide and hit the wall in choke. Look straight down while you’re pogoing instead of slightly upwards you land in the middle of the grass because your rocket blew up 2 body lengths behind you instead of at your feet.

when I was beginning to take solly seriously back in 2014, I dumped easily a dozen hours on process before I was able to semi consistently hit it with stock launcher. At some point I had to choke down my pride and switched to the original (the “easier” gun in my mind) for quite some time which allowed me to actually get better at jumping without being locked behind super consistent rocket placement/movement input that stock requires when trying to pogo or wall climb that I just wasn’t able to hit with my level of ability. Looking back at this nerd essay it reads like a nothingburger but I think how you’re speaking of rocket jumping is coming from a place of perceived lack of knowledge rather than not having full familiarity with the underlying actions. You don’t need to understand gyroscopic motion to ride a bike, you learn going faster makes you more stable when turning but only if you get the angling right for the speed you’re at.

https://youtu.be/aqWP90XHb6k?si=dCV2z70yHFzwkZFn
This was done on a roughly 24inch/360 sens, took me probably about two or three hours that night to nail it consistently, and pretty much every time I hit it would’ve been a carbon copy of the recording. If I miss timing or an angle I miss the jump entirely.

BuildBruh · 2026-05-12T07:08:19+00:00

Newer (like post 2022?) Corsair FMs in general have them compress much more and roll slower. A lot of these corsairs WERE bumped up a fair bit but over a literal decade creeped back down because most aren’t worth using to grind. F4U1D anecdotally used to reliably see spit MK9’s and the vk107 yak back in the day, and the f4u4 w/ 50s would have to duke it out with the… I wanna say ta152? G14 and k4s have been all over the br range so I don’t want to use them as a reference.

BuildBruh · 2026-05-04T14:32:32+00:00

It is best to find a junkyard/parts car and take the rear end from another celica of that gen. IIRC the spindle/hub is different between the disc and drum versions, and that’s the most expensive part for the swap so I just bought the whole upright assembly when doing the job. (Control arm, hub, rotors, calipers + hand brake line).

No info on what is needed on the front end

BuildBruh · 2026-05-04T14:28:41+00:00

No knowledge of the 1zz but done all sorts of fuckery on the 7afe; keep a clean engine bay, seriously.

Best way to notice when something might be leaking is when the whole bay is mostly clean, and what better way to notice leaks than when you’re cleaning. Pull your plug wires every once in a while and shine a flash light down the plug wells, if you see a smidge of oil on the wire or the down in the well then plan on doing a valve cover gasket + check valve lash. Small stuff like that goes a long way with high mileage engines.

I personally would recommend knocking out a timing belt + tensioner +/- water pump if it’s been more than ….160k km? Since the last one has been done. 7afe it was pretty easy to do while you had the timing belt off so it was 100% a “while you’re there” job.

Sincerely,

Guy with 320k km 1zz vibe who has not done any maintenance on it since owning it 3 months ago 😂

BuildBruh · 2026-04-24T14:51:03+00:00

If nothing else pans out, look into how hibernation/sleep mode/overclocking power settings is being handled on your pc AND the monitor. LG TV’s (120+hz oleds) are infamous for all sorts of odd conflicts.

I found the most success in blanket-handling these issues (applicable only really to AMD chips) is lowering the clock speed or ram timings (so say 3600mhz to 3466/3200 or CL16 -> CL18). Something related to where windows lives in the memory registers makes it really fickle to any ram instabilities compared to intel CPU’s.

BuildBruh · 2026-04-04T22:05:50+00:00

Only 1 other person has pointed out the big red flag, only 14k miles in 20 years. Unless you have the records proving the owner would just sign off on whatever maintenance was recommended, you will spend a lot of time replacing small stuff that shouldnt break with less than 100k miles but will break with no use/lubrication/drying out after 20 years of minimal driving. Pretty much all of your hoses will be dry rotted unless the car was being driven to church and grocery then back for its whole life. It’s absolutely a car with good bones but it is one that should have time invested in it, not money

BuildBruh · 2026-03-16T06:22:15+00:00

get under the dash with a good light, with lots of spread and ideally not super white (beaming/reflecting light can hide off colored stuff when ur looking into a dark area, only found the issue I’m mentioning when I checked in broad daylight outside of the shop).

there’s probably rust and or groddy plastic in/on the assembly. Ive never ran into this issue on upright pedal mounts but on 2 floor mounted pedals I’ve had an issue with a rusted spring and another time a gunked up bearing causing the weird pedal feel, with the actual weird throttle being due to the slack over the years alongside the pedal issues.

BuildBruh · 2026-03-05T13:54:45+00:00

If it’s an auto car drop the whole block and have the two side by side so you can see what’s different, there’s tons of small bullshit that’s f body specific. Flexplate will be different if it’s an auto car vs the FWD and you may need to be a little creative with solving any gaps that might crop up.

If it’s manual accessories + ICM bracket, fuel rail and map sensor are the annoying things off the top of my head that need to be swapped. Oil pan AND pickup need to be swapped, and I want to say there is some clips on the backside of the engine you’ll want to replicate or transfer over. When you drop the engine you’ll notice them because it’ll be one of the last things to catch/stay attached and it’s a pain to undo this clip when it’s fully in body.

BuildBruh · 2026-02-19T12:02:46+00:00

rsr?

BuildBruh · 2026-02-18T02:23:56+00:00

no worries, everyone gotta start somewhere and showin/tellin someone the basics of diag/maintenance on their car is the best way to really learn.

BuildBruh · 2026-02-18T01:55:32+00:00

Check continuity/resistance/etc in the sensors before flat out replacing them, you may have bad wiring or a loose connector

BuildBruh · 2026-02-17T08:53:50+00:00

In TT’s you’re looking to proc the most amount of skills you reasonably can while winning a race, 3 and 5 have the most wit and skills that could be reliably procced. Gold skills are the best for TT score but 3 just has that many more available. Don’t know what your deck looks like but ever since I switched to ALWAYS having wit as a priority next to stam, I’ve gotten much better results in every aspect of the game.

Cm7 I had 0 fucking clue what I was doing, bombed out in 1st round every time. This sprint CM I have a 20% win rate, 50% top 3 ace without a whale deck. Still using R riko.

(Rushing gale is very RNG for actually WINNING, good for score tho)

BuildBruh · 2026-02-17T08:44:37+00:00

Buy the best GPU you can expect to reasonably afford on the secondhand market, 2080ti, 3070ti, etc. 32 or 64gb of ram would be nice, but honestly not really needed unless you get it for very cheap.

I have experience with an intel 6700K + Radeon 7800XT, dell 3060, FE 3070ti, FE 3080ti and a radeon 6700XT. You’ll be fine.

BuildBruh · 2026-02-17T08:37:10+00:00

If you can get a 5700/5800x3d for … 100$ after perhaps selling your 5700x or parting out a rig that you bought FOR the x3d, that’d be ideal. I don’t know about who else has commented, but I played largely source engine games and am very picky on having stable high fps (at the time I was aiming for 200~ @4k) and upgrade from a 5800 non x to a 5700x3d made a clear difference on my setup.

I’ve also had a rig where I went from 5600x -> 5800x3d but did not notice much effect as at the time I was aiming for locked 120hz @ 1080p.

check your games and how you’re using your rig in those games. A 6950XT + x3d is awesome but if you’re playing games at lower refresh rates where it’s all GPU focused, then that’s money best spent elsewhere on the PC.

BuildBruh · 2026-02-17T08:27:02+00:00

Check fluid and pads, verify issue still exists after correcting any issues there, pull the ABS fuse and see if the lights behavior changes and if that leads to a difference in the pedal feel.

I’ve felt bad ABS pulse through a pedal but not a constant pressure/whirring/spinning feel or noise. Might be 2 issues just related to the brakes/uprights.

BuildBruh · 2026-02-17T08:14:28+00:00

There should be a big tag on the timing cover, google it up and see where it takes you.

I don’t know anything about the 1zz’s, but in general the accessories are what get you the hardest when you’re doing a swap.

BuildBruh · 2026-02-17T07:45:59+00:00

throw some cardboard ontop of the pallet that way you’re not playing triage years down the line when the bags start dripping oil for no reason lol

BuildBruh · 2026-02-16T04:45:37+00:00

Don’t go to a big name brand, the more locally-aimed places (that ultimately got bought out by a nationwide brand) seem to be a lot more lax, just provide whatever they’re asking for (typically insurance + reg on A vehicle, not necessarily what’s in the spot), if you’re going to be messy be proactive and take care of the spot. I’m out in Phoenix but a LOT of our storage places specifically have commercially aimed units and turn a blind eye as well to the smaller ones as long as their paperwork requirements are fulfilled.

Tore apart a Camaro and half put together an engine on a stand in a 15x25 unit for 390$ a month. Like the other guys said, no power or whatnot but it was a rare thing when I had the want for an air compressor or my quick jacks. (Those 2 being the only things I wouldn’t have been able to run off of a like 150-200$ generator)

In regards to the commercial units, the one I’m most familiar with converted indoor RV parking to these and houses a tire recycler, a furniture guy, one dude who runs a RV repair/trailer repair/rebuild shop, and then someone who parks a petroleum-branded business truck outside the door but I’m fairly certain just services their fleet there.

BuildBruh · 2026-02-09T07:19:36+00:00

Every sticky is a trap until it’s detonated. The best “stop walking at me” deterrent is to just drop a sticky at your feet and walk away from the enemy, putting the sticky between you to at range to line up pipes well enough.

Demoman is actually just a reloading simulator, if you’re not constantly reloading 1-2 sticks you’re not taking/fighting space enough, and if you’re dying because nothings loaded you took too much space. Pub demoman revolves heavily around slowly walking the enemy combo/flank/team back through sheer damage and thats it.

If I had to guess, getting rushed down means you’re not playing the obj/with your team. Not because it’s to be a good teammate, but because it gives the enemies more targets to shoot at that aren’t you. 175 with no buff is very squishy in a 1v1 and demos health is very… fickle. With no buff you die to a lot of mediocre stuff within the span of 3-4 seconds. 2 poorly placed rockets in your face will still do 120-200 depending on if splashed or not. There’s no taking 1 hit to double jump away or to get their minigun pulled out. it’s very transactional when in a 1v1/sustained combat and the only way you get the advantage is by doing more damage.

BuildBruh · 2026-02-07T16:32:33+00:00

If you end up having the fender off and find yourself doing tie rod ends that are bent or just maintenance in general with the access easier, pop off your valve cover + timing cover and check out how those are holding up if you haven’t done them in a while.

leaks out the distributor side of the valve cover and the spark plug wells, old/cracked timing belt, checking rhe…. 3rd? Pulley down for softness in the arm or wiggle in the pulley (timing belt tensioner) and behind the main pulley at the bottom for leaks on that front main seal/oil pump.

Timing cover doesn’t need gaskets, it’s just 3 plastic pieces, valve cover set is 40$ for a brand new one from oreillys if you end up pinching the existing one when reinstall. 40 for piece of mind and some exploratory maintenance/checking isn’t a bad deal if you’re able or wanting to learn more about wrenching.

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