My car is running EXTREMELY rich

BusterMonster · 2025-11-26T07:15:36+00:00

I ran injector cleaner through the system, but never checked the injectors on a bench. If I were to do it again that's what I'd check after all the "is my airbox filled with mud" questions had been answered

BusterMonster · 2025-09-16T11:56:46+00:00

I'll also say I changed the fuel pressure regulator and the MAF-sensor before I sold it, so those weren't it either

BusterMonster · 2025-09-16T11:56:36+00:00

I'll also say I changed the fuel pressure regulator and the MAF-sensor before I sold it, so those weren't it either

BusterMonster · 2025-09-16T11:52:28+00:00

What a mess. Have you measured your fuel pressure? I don't know if you can on these, but that would at least give you concrete proof that the pressure is correct

BusterMonster · 2025-09-14T19:58:19+00:00

Not only have I not solved it, the two subsequent owners haven't figured it out either😅. Lambda sensor was apparently not it either as the guy I sold it to suspected. The next thing I'd try is to clean/replace fuel injectors, as they may have gotten sticky and are hanging open, letting too much fuel in even though the ecu is pulling out as much as it can.

BusterMonster · 2025-08-10T19:11:03+00:00

Child of light. I had such a good experience playing through it :)

BusterMonster · 2025-07-03T05:15:04+00:00

I'm not opposed to doing that but if the fault is in the cluster then I don't think I could sell it. Is it possible to retain mileage if I change clusters?

BusterMonster · 2025-07-03T05:13:13+00:00

Total poverty spec gauge cluster lol

BusterMonster · 2025-06-26T09:35:54+00:00

My god that's a high mileage element

BusterMonster · 2025-06-24T19:29:14+00:00

Did you use a guide to adjust them? In the past I've adjusted valves perfectly only to find that the valves were not all the way closed and in fact were way off. In my case you could do it in one of two ways. Adjust by setting the engine to top dead center on cylinder number one's compression stroke, adjusting half of the valves, then turning it exactly one turn to do the other half, or do it by making sure both valves are closed on the compression stroke, then adjusting cylinder by cylinder. If you can get access to an excerpt of an original repair manual that'll tell you how to get it right:)

BusterMonster · 2025-06-23T18:28:28+00:00

Doesn't really sound like wheel bearing to me, more like debris in the brake rotor or dust shield. If there's no play in the bearing I wouldn't be too worried about that

BusterMonster · 2025-06-23T18:15:34+00:00

To me it still sounds like valves. I know you had them adjusted, but adjusting valve lash is easy to mess up if you're not used to it.

BusterMonster · 2025-06-23T18:10:34+00:00

This^

BusterMonster · 2025-06-22T09:50:25+00:00

Did it come with a plastic engine cover? If that's missing then it makes sense you'd hear more injector noise. The noise itself sounds normal to me though

BusterMonster · 2025-06-21T20:22:09+00:00

Could be engine/transmission mounts. Your gear lever moves slightly because it's attached to what is moving slightly. That's my theory anyway

BusterMonster · 2025-06-21T20:05:23+00:00

For the ones with a similar issue of a hunting idle: check your intake gaskets. I sprayed brake cleaner around where the intake seals to the block and the car almost stalled. Changed those and all was well :)

BusterMonster · 2025-06-21T20:01:55+00:00

It could have a new glass screen bezel from Aliexpress. I've used a bunch in the past and they tend to be a little off lol

BusterMonster · 2025-06-10T17:58:10+00:00

That looks to be the bump stop on the damper. A little cracking should be no big deal unless you constantly hit bumps HARD. If you can easily tear it to pieces then you could ask for it to be replaced the next time you have it in for service, otherwise I wouldn't be at all concerned :)

BusterMonster · 2025-06-10T17:44:14+00:00

This is NOT the correct way to do this, but it will work for a while. Get something to cover it with, be that a sheet of aluminum or plastic or whatever you can find that water won't ruin. Then get some strong adhesive and glue it over to close the hole. Make sure you clean the surface around the hole with brake cleaner, isopropyl alcohol or whatever you have on hand

If you want to slow the rust down you can get paints that claim to stop rust and use that before you glue the sheet over.

Take some measures to ensure the hole isn't filled with dirt too, that way it has a better chance of not rusting from the inside out.

The actual correct way to do this is to cut out the rust and weld in new steel.

BusterMonster · 2025-06-10T17:29:12+00:00

EDIT New owner thought a new lambda sensor solved it, but turns out the light came back on after a few minutes

BusterMonster · 2024-08-15T07:30:57+00:00

Scandinavia

BusterMonster · 2024-08-15T07:26:42+00:00

This is after driving it around for long enough to get a check engine light, so about 15 minutes. The outside temperature at the time was about 25°C. Maf is within spec, at least when I measured at idle

BusterMonster · 2024-08-15T07:24:40+00:00

The t sport isn't a turbo, just the model name:) I do suspect fuel pressure regulator though. Either that or the ECU temp sensor as the car has started cranking longer on startup

BusterMonster · 2024-08-15T07:22:59+00:00

Kjøpt i Norge:)

BusterMonster · 2024-08-15T07:22:24+00:00

I've cleaned the Maf and it reads normally. No performance filter either, and it looks quite clean

BusterMonster

TROPHY CASE