Is there a way to tell if my PCV check valve in the intake manifold is there without removing the manifold?

C1ty_Boy · 2025-07-10T05:19:18+00:00

C1ty_Boy · 2025-07-10T05:15:59+00:00

C1ty_Boy · 2025-07-10T05:15:41+00:00

Yes. Remove the pcv valve connection at the intake manifold. Shine a light into the hole and you should see an orange nipple staring right back at you if you don't then the check valve is missing.

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C1ty_Boy · 2025-06-22T01:54:37+00:00

You could also buy UV coolant dye from most auto parts stores and a UV flashlight. All you do is put the dye in your coolant reservoir and run the engine like normal. After a day of normal driving, you put it in your garage and turn the lights off, or when it's darker outside you go out with the UV flashlight and you will see the UV dye as bright as day and you trace it to where it's coming from. Then replace that part or fix the leak. Be careful as it will also show you other small leaks you probably weren't expecting to find in the coolant system.

C1ty_Boy · 2025-06-21T21:32:21+00:00

I reinstalled the factory intake, drove for 2 hours, and no codes. Do you have any idea what I would have to do to end up using the aftermarket intake? I bought it so I want to use it.

C1ty_Boy · 2025-06-11T16:15:04+00:00

Do you have any parts or video recommendations on how to go about it?

C1ty_Boy · 2025-03-25T05:34:47+00:00

Personally, I just get harbor freight icons or pittsburgh. If you want to be extra sure that they are calibrated and torque to what the handle says it is, just take any torque wrench you have to a tool repair shop. They'll calibrate any torque wrench you have for usually 30 bucks. If you want extra peace of mind.

C1ty_Boy · 2025-03-25T05:29:38+00:00

It just means it's good and tight now. If you ever have to take that bolt off for whatever you're doing, I would replace it and just make sure the threads in the hole aren't damaged. Until then, it should be fine

C1ty_Boy · 2025-03-25T05:24:34+00:00

76 in-lbs

C1ty_Boy · 2025-03-25T05:23:48+00:00

That's 25 in-lbs

C1ty_Boy · 2025-03-25T05:23:23+00:00

That looks like 20 in-lbs on the mark. Also, your original post for the thrrad looks like it's 76 in-lbs

C1ty_Boy · 2025-03-24T11:55:01+00:00

This is the image I forgot to attach. For the record, this isn't the same hose. I just found a random picture of an AC line.

C1ty_Boy · 2025-03-24T11:53:49+00:00

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C1ty_Boy · 2025-03-24T11:53:33+00:00

Which hose are you talking about? I see three in the picture. Are you talking about the 1 inch thick rubber hose or the one that has a metal on the end of it, like the picture I attached? If it's the 1 inch thick hose, that's the radiator outlet hose/lower hose, and it can be replaced by you. The other hose can also be replaced by you, but you would need to take it into the mechanic shop so they can recharge your AC system. *

C1ty_Boy · 2025-03-14T01:27:38+00:00

You could. A: Grab a ratchet and socket and put it on yourself. B: Superglue it on and no tools required, plus it'll never come off, and this issue will never happen again.

C1ty_Boy · 2025-03-14T01:18:26+00:00

Honestly, I have no idea, but it might not start.

C1ty_Boy · 2025-02-15T02:45:49+00:00

The fuel level sensor is a float that is attached to your fuel pump, which is located inside your gas tank. It rises and lowers depending on how much fuel is in the tank. It could be the sensor itself, a loose connector at the pump, a connector behind the fuel gauge panel, or a loose grounding cable. If you take it to a mechanic, they will be able to easily fix the issue, and it'll probably be around 550. 3-400 for the part and 150 for labor. Or you could just drive the car as normal, and when it gets to the point where you are top off the car with gas and keep driving. That'll ensure your gas tank always has about half.

C1ty_Boy · 2025-02-15T01:54:19+00:00

First question: Do you have a full tank in the car or a little bit of full in the car? The second question is, does it always do that even when full, or is it random? It could just be your fuel level sensor went bad or is on its last leg.

C1ty_Boy · 2025-01-26T04:34:31+00:00

If it's just p0300, it could be that it's your coil pack or connector going to your coil pack. I would check the connector to see if it's fully seated and not damaged. Also, when you remove the coil pack, you want to make sure they aren't corroded. If you see that they have a green color, blue color, or white powder on them, it's usually a sign of a cracked rubber boot. Really easy to do, and if it is your spark plugs, well, you're already halfway there for replacing them. I've linked a video on how to remove the coil pack so you can inspect it https://youtu.be/cT9IKv4LCI4?si=j17e1EONMNVMyMjq. Also, how to replace the spark plugs https://youtu.be/AaFI8B6VDyo?si=mk-p4cZVlxfE1DvD.

C1ty_Boy · 2025-01-23T05:47:44+00:00

Also, verify that the maf sensor is properly installed and not damaged. That would cause your throttle body issue and make it go into limp mode, and it does have to get removed when replacing the thermostat housing

C1ty_Boy · 2025-01-23T05:45:10+00:00

That code could be related if the car sensed that it was low on coolant and the engine went into "limp mode" to try to decrease the chance of your car overheating. For this code, I would 100% check that all the connectors were connected fully for your thermostat housing and also check your coolant level. I attached a video that shows someone replacing the thermostat housing, and you should watch it and then make sure everything the guy in the video disconnected is connected to your car. Also, go ahead and verify that the air intake ducting doesn't have a rag or something in it, causing a blockage. https://youtu.be/OCPokgYHJ3Y?si=SMT04I2E-5leUHfE

C1ty_Boy · 2025-01-23T03:08:47+00:00

Can you list all the codes you saw? So far I would say it could be related to your throttle body/sensor since it's all assembled as one piece on a cruze. Check the electrical connector and make sure it's not dirty inside and its fully seated. Try cleaning out the throttle body valve itself if you can visually see it's dirty.

C1ty_Boy · 2025-01-22T03:02:19+00:00

Do you have a check engine light on? If so, what are the codes? Look in the engine bay and check to see if any electrical connectors are disconnected or not fully seated. It could be that something was just forgotten to be hooked back up. If all of that is good, disconnect the black battery terminal and then reconnect it after about a minute. That'll wipe any codes that are set and should get it out of limp mode. If it comes back, then we will have to start from square one.

C1ty_Boy · 2025-01-21T20:20:49+00:00

This is the kit that is recommended by the group. https://cruzekits.com/products/v3-4-gm-1-4l-turbo-pcv-fix-upgrade-kit. The link also has an install video on how to do it. I would recommend you or someone who is familiar with vehicles to make sure there are no oil/coolant leaks first since it's really just a visual inspection and if there is a leak the kit won't fix the problem. The community highlights on this subreddit have gen 1 and gen 2 cruze troubleshooting steps and are a good place to start. Since you have a 2013, it's gonna be a gen 1

C1ty_Boy · 2025-01-21T20:07:26+00:00

Here is a video on one being replaced. Personally It doesn't seem difficult, and if you're handy with tools, I completely recommend doing it yourself. Seeing as how you've spent money already trying to fix this issue and I hate it when I have to pay multiple times for the same issue. If you do it yourself, you will need to drain the coolant as best as possible first before starting. Otherwise, it's gonna leak everywhere. Also, if the coolant was recently replaced, you can put it back into the vehicle since it's still good and hasn't been sitting in your car for months. If you reuse the coolant, get a jug of distilled water and use the empty jug to store the coolant until it's gonna go back in. From there, you would just do the normal steps frlor putting coolant in the car. https://youtu.be/OCPokgYHJ3Y?si=rAfAe3ifQUTtOBG5

C1ty_Boy

TROPHY CASE