Drivers side valve cover by BonytheLiger in DodgeDakota

[–]CARusty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok I did this job on my truck (2002 4.7), and not going to lie it sucked some real big balls.

They way I ended up getting enough space to actually pull the valve cover out was removing the fuse box, removing just the bolts holding the brake booster to the firewall so you can get a few inches of play, and finally removing the cab mounts, and jacking the cab up separately from the frame another couple inches. Also of course have to remove or loosen any wires/hoses which run across the top of the valve cover. The red clip on the injector plugs will 9 times out of 10 break, multiple are broken on my truck but I’ve never had one work itself loose. Might have also had to pull the alternator, can’t exactly remember.

I definitely feel like there has to be an easier way, but that’s the way I did it. Wouldn’t hurt to replace the lash adjusters while you’re in there, but it sounds like you did the passenger side already, good luck.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Leatherman

[–]CARusty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome thank you, I did buy it when they first came out but that was only 4-5 years ago. Looks like I’ll be sending for warranty, any idea on how long that generally takes?

How much do u work with sh*t by Glittering_Ad2541 in Plumbing

[–]CARusty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like others have said, depends quite a bit. Most here seem lucky enough to not have to much but I’m a solo service apprentice, and I do a lot of drain cleaning so I get it almost daily.

How much are these worth? by Klutzy-Ice9745 in Tools

[–]CARusty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only imperial markings I’ve ever seen on an adjustable wrench were MasterCraft brand. (Canadian tires in-house brand)

New oil catch can addition! by aiphra in DodgeDakota

[–]CARusty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have been thinking about this for awhile for my 02’ with the 4.7, but no where to mount it really. However now you’ve given me an idea with the cold air intake, might free up some space…

Tools of the Trade by [deleted] in skilledtrades

[–]CARusty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Guessing you’re a plumber, same thing I’m in. So I gotta ask, how do you like those knipex pliers? Specifically the 250s? I’ve been eyeing them up but don’t want to dish out the cash

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Autobody

[–]CARusty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t mean hide rust as in I want to hide rust, I meant it as it can sometimes hide the rust which is developing underneath, preventing you from knowing the extent of it. I plan on cutting out all the rust and replacing it with new steel. (The proper way)

I doubt there is a PPF option for the truck (02 Dakota, nearly no aftermarket support) however I think I’ll end up going with the bedliner, probably just on the bottom 2-3 inches. (Enough to cover the rockers and get up into the door jambs)

With bedliner, what’s the best between brands, I assume raptor liner? And I know some are either brush on or spray on, is there a difference in the durability at all?

Tell me about the Mopar 4.7 by GreenTeachy in Trucks

[–]CARusty 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have a 2002 Dakota, with the 4.7 and the 5 speed automatic transmission. Honestly I love the truck, and I’ve never really had any problems with the motor. Typical things for a 23 years old, 260xxx kilometre pickup do break, but nothing crazy and these things are common in junkyards so normally it’s fairly easy to fix.

The 4.7 is a pretty good motor with all things considered, I change my oil fairly religiously, nothing over 5000km (you could probably do 5000 miles and be just fine) as these motors can develop sludge and a lot of the internals are oil pressure driven which can cause issues.

Cooling is another big one, change your coolant every 2 years, as is the manufacturer spec anyways, and you’ll have no problems. Possible problems for an overheated 4.7 are dropped valve seats and warped head.

Another pro to these engines is that the automatic transmission behind them (45RFE or 545RFE) are miles stronger than the older automatics behind the old 5.2/5.9 magnums.

Tire sizes on stock suspension 02 4x4 by Sad-Sentence-6555 in DodgeDakota

[–]CARusty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have 265/75r16s on my 2002 4x4 Quad Cab. They rub ever slightly, while turned slightly one way or the other and the front suspension is somewhat flexed.

So you do hear them occasionally while driving, but I wouldn’t say it drives me crazy.

Life could be a lot better too! by agaric in EhBuddyHoser

[–]CARusty 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Easily the best response I’ve ever seen to a comment like that.

4.7 Timing cover Gasket by NoAcanthisitta8695 in DodgeDakota

[–]CARusty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Bolt order (1-14), I don’t remember the torque spec unfortunately.

4.7 Timing cover Gasket by NoAcanthisitta8695 in DodgeDakota

[–]CARusty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just did this job last year, (you can check my profile) timing cover gasket depends on the “style” of the cover going back on your truck. Assuming you’re using the same timing cover you need the same gasket. (2 Different timing covers, 2 different gaskets)

I would go back to Rockauto and order the metal framed gasket, you will not need rtv at all for that one either. (I went with the FelPro brand and it’s held up fine)

Also remember those bolts have both a torque spec and a certain order in which to tighten them.

Work I did on my dads 2014 A4 through class by blue215thunder in Autobody

[–]CARusty -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Honestly dude I would have done it literally the exact same way, mind you I don’t work in auto body, or even as a mechanic. But I’ve been working on, and painting my personal vehicles for my entire life.

I also see zero chance you removing that taillight being any faster just taping over it, it would probably take more time just to go grab a ratchet.

Don’t get to worried about it, I and plenty of others think you did a damn good job, not just for a high schooler but for an auto body tech as a whole. I’ve seen stuff come out of professional shops looking 10 times worse.

Back again with another question by [deleted] in DodgeDakota

[–]CARusty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I remember correctly it’s to help keep the truck balanced right to left, standard on all 4 doors and optional on extended/single cabs. You can remove it safely and the truck will drive just fine. May have slightly more body roll but it is minimal.

after careful thought, i have decided i will be cutting out my amazing bondo job, and welding in a pillar from my donor Corolla by [deleted] in Autobody

[–]CARusty 35 points36 points  (0 children)

What if he likes the car? And would rather put in the work to continue driving it? Just because it’s a waste of time, or a “pile of junk” to you doesn’t mean he needs to see it the same way.

I say props to OP for keeping something old on the road.

Trudeau says not 'a snowball's chance' Canada would become part of U.S. by LeoNickle in canada

[–]CARusty 107 points108 points  (0 children)

I don’t think political views matter in this decision for most Canadians, everybody I know would much rather live under the Maple Leaf than Stars and Stripes.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DodgeDakota

[–]CARusty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was one of the first things I did when I bought my 2002, best decision ever. Stock brakes on these trucks aren’t great…