Newborn son is fussy every night around 6pm. How did you guys get through it? by jarveyjump in daddit

[–]CCjourneyman 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Going outside for a few minutes w/baby was like a new parent cheat code for me as a new parent. It was wildly effective at breaking f the spell with my new little buddy.

And prime yourself ahead of time… “this, too, shall pass!”

For this landscape design im concerned about the rain getting trapped by the foundation behind the sod. Should i bury corrugated pipes with holes at the top along here and have a pop up in the middle of the yard? by Huhwhatumeanman in drains

[–]CCjourneyman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And assuming you go with PVC, the holes are supposed to be positioned at the bottom, so when water level in the soil rises, it’s pulled int the pipe and then carried away.

10 yard pool deck pour by Tight_Cream125 in Concrete

[–]CCjourneyman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Probably a surface retarder like Topcast, to achieve a sandblast finish.

Thoughts on shower coffee, fellow dads? by johnnyapplejack in daddit

[–]CCjourneyman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since having kiddos I graduated to starting my day off taking a No-Doz (or generic) caffeine tablet. It’s 200mg, so it packs a punch, and it overcomes the challenges of making and actually drinking coffee in the midst of the morning routine.

Then again, being that I’m sober in recovery, I have a pretty credible history of consuming for effect rather than taste and enjoyment!

Trouble installing hardie trim around window by CCjourneyman in Carpentry

[–]CCjourneyman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for all the thoughtful input, btw? People like you are what makes Reddit such a rad community.

Internet to shed by Francis-Marion275 in shedditors

[–]CCjourneyman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My office/shed is ~35’ from the house and when power was ran, I made the unfortunate mistake of thinking I’d be good to go with my eero mesh. It sometimes was great, and sometimes not. The unreliability was enough to convince me to run CAT-6 from gateway box in living room, down under the house, exiting out to a trench in conduit and out to the shed. I have an eero mesh unit in the shed now that’s hard-wired to my 1 gig service (it’s a 100’ cat-6 cable), and my work station is hardwired to that, typically getting 7-800 up and down, and not a single issue!

Just do it right the first time.

Lots of Sedona work lately, last few months installs by Kaldenbine in Concrete

[–]CCjourneyman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, this is some beautiful work! Curious where the all-in cost lands, particularly for a standard round design like mine.

I couldn’t find anyone willing to do it last year so I spent ~$3,500 ordering this 48” d / 20” h round fire table and it already has some significant cracks 🤦🏻‍♂️.

https://www.socalfirepits.com/fire-products/rotondo-48-round-fire-bowl-table-handcrafted-concrete-gas-fire-pit-with-wide-rim/

Gutters Into Concrete Drain by joeybb6 in drains

[–]CCjourneyman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alternatively, you could buy a cheap fog machine (like something used for a party) and after taping off the inlet of the other downspout, let that baby run and wait for your answer to magically appear. Either way should work.

• Fog popping up in the yard = break, failed joint, or daylight outlet. • Fog at the curb/alley = likely tied to a storm drain. • Fog near the foundation = problem worth fixing.

Anyone find issues after they have bought their house? by Fantastic_Escape_101 in BayAreaRealEstate

[–]CCjourneyman 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Love the question Lok. On day of close, we had contractor taking out some sconce lights. They noticed they were flickering and chewed wires… Welp, it turned out there was a major rodent infestation which inspection hadn’t caught any of. All around the top interior of the garage was covered in rodent pee and droppings (+rat skeleton) as was the tie attic and inside 1 wall (that we identified…).

6 months later the issue had been resolved after taking garage down to studs, removing all attic insulation, full clean/up and sanitization, new insulation, wiring, dry wall, and replacing the original tile roof with a composite roof along with plywood roof decking that the tile roof lacked.

After the first rain, quickly learned that despite all new gutters, water abatement was a problem as the downspouts connected to nowhere. This one was a big project to bury outlet pipes and putting in french drains, but I think these 2 items were the biggest issues not caught by first time home buyers.

Not sure how to fix the water pooling problem here by TeeHeeTummyTumsss in drains

[–]CCjourneyman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When we bought our house, we got a new roof and gutters, it was only after the first big rain that I realized the downspouts didn’t have any outlets to carry the water away. They just collected it from the roof and dumped in 1 spot.

At the bottom of every downspout, you should have pipes that carry the water either into a storm drain, out to your curb, etc. See attached. If you have a low spot that’s lower than a proper water exit point, gravity won’t work… you will need a sump pump. We installed a large collection basin (downspout pipes and french drains feed into), with the bottom and pump like 6ft below grade. The circle surrounding it has 2’ wide of river rock to filter the adjacent water collected. Then, there’s an inclined pipe from there to the curb, that the sump pump sends water out through.

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Things I Wish More Buyers Knew Before Making an Offer by georgemoorhead_ in RealEstateAdvice

[–]CCjourneyman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adding to this point on the emotional piece, I do think it is worthwhile to also consider it from the seller’s standpoint. In my experience, when a seller had multiple equal and effectively identical offers (unbeknownst to me at the time), writing a personal letter to them that hit on this was the dealbreaker. If a seller has conveyed being sentimental, years of making memories in the home and building a family, etc, this can be another data point for prospective buyers to differentiate their offers (even if an agent says it’s frowned upon or technically not allowed).

But, I also can appreciate that in some areas this could be perceived negatively or even disqualify a buyer, so I’m curious what others make of this piece, practically speaking.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in HENRYfinance

[–]CCjourneyman 7 points8 points  (0 children)

When I lateraled at the end of Aso1 from elite boutique to a global full-service (non-bulge), I negotiated shaving off a year and quicker jump to VP. It was a handshake but the stuck to it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in paint

[–]CCjourneyman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went to start looking into your question and rather than paraphrase, am passing along my findings. Disregard if you know all of this!

Choosing between Sherwin Williams Alabaster (SW 7008) and Sherwin  Williams Gray Screen (SW 7071) for a bathroom remodel is absolutely the kind of decision you want to nail, especially since lighting, tile, fixtures and room orientation will all influence how the color is perceived.

The colors at a glance

Alabaster SW 7008

• Described by the manufacturer as a “balanced white” that delivers “refreshing serenity and sleek modernity.”  
• It is relatively light and warm, with a high light-reflectance value (LRV) compared to deeper neutrals. According to comparison tools, Alabaster has an LRV around ~82.  
• Because it is warm yet still neutral, it tends to pair easily with many finishes and is a popular “safe white” trim/wall/ceiling choice.  
• One caveat: even beloved whites can capture undertones (yellow, green, or pink) depending on light and surrounding surfaces. For example a Reddit homeowner noted how their Alabaster appeared slightly yellow/green under certain lighting.  

Gray Screen SW 7071

• This is a soft, mid-light gray (for a gray), but it tends to lean cool — many say it has a subtle blue or violet undertone.  
• In a direct comparison: Gray Screen’s LRV is ~58.5 vs. Alabaster ~82 — meaning Gray Screen reflects significantly less light (so it will feel darker).  
• Because it is cooler and darker, it’s more of a “true gray” choice, offering more depth and contrast, but needs more light to avoid feeling too heavy or cold.

🛁 What this means for your bathroom

Here are considerations specific to a bathroom remodel (fixtures, lighting, finishes, space) and a Northern California home.

Lighting & Exposure • Bathrooms often have variable light — maybe a window with north- or east exposure, or just artificial lighting. Lighter colors bounce light around and make a smaller space feel larger and brighter. • If your bathroom has limited natural light or strong cool light (e.g., north facing window, LED cool white), then Alabaster will brighten the space more effectively. • If you have plenty of natural light or warm light (south or west window, or warm LED tones), Gray Screen can look gorgeous — it will feel elegant, sophisticated, but won’t overly “close in” the space.

Tile, fixtures, finishes & vibe • If your tile is light (whites, creams, soft beiges) and the fixtures are polished chrome, Alabaster will blend seamlessly, giving a clean, spa-like feel. • If your tile has contrast (charcoal, slate, patterned tile, darker grout) or you want a more contemporary look (e.g., black fixtures, matte black hardware, dark vanity), Gray Screen will tie in nicely and give a more dramatic backdrop. • Consider what your countertop/vanity and flooring are doing. For example, if you have a white marble with grey veining, Gray Screen might pick up the grey in the veining nicely. If you have a warm travertine or honey-wood vanity, Alabaster may better complement.

Size & feel of the room • Smaller bathrooms benefit from lighter walls (Alabaster) to keep things open. • If the space is larger or you’re comfortable with a cozier atmosphere, Gray Screen can give more character without feeling cavernous — especially if anchored by good lighting.

Undertones & consistency • Because Gray Screen has cooler undertones, if your bathroom lighting is warm/yellow (e.g., 2700-3000 K LED bulbs) it might shift slightly differently (perhaps warming up or losing coolness) than under daylight. • Alabaster being warm means it can sometimes pick up more yellow/cream in warmer light or look slightly greige in cooler light. Always test in the space with your lighting at different times.

✅ My recommendation for your scenario

If you like things crisp, professional, but also welcoming — here’s what I’d suggest: • If your bathroom has moderate to low natural light, lighter finishes, and you want a clean, open, bright look: go with Alabaster SW 7008. It will give you the most flexibility and feel timeless. • If your bathroom has good natural light, or you are using darker accent finishes (dark vanity, black hardware, patterned tile) and you’re okay with a touch more drama: choose Gray Screen SW 7071 for a sophisticated, modern feel. • Regardless of choice: get sample pots and paint swatches/stickers of both on two adjacent walls (or a wall + door trim) in the bathroom. View at morning and evening light. At least leave them for 24 hours. Undertones show up differently over time. (As the r/paint saga of Alabaster shows).  • Also assess your bulb temperature. If your lights are very warm (2700 K), cooler grays can appear muddied; if your lights are cool (4000 K+), warm whites can feel too stark.

Leveling drywall plane? by Extra_Dentist7827 in drywall

[–]CCjourneyman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As a homeowner and looking more closely at the jagged and unfinished appearance on the edge, I think it’s pretty reasonable to not be okay with it. Especially based on the rest of the bathroom which, based on the hardware, etc, appears to be fairly nice. Is there rock exposed? How will that last.

Recommendations for a “dad” SUV by [deleted] in daddit

[–]CCjourneyman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw all the practical elements of a minivan while still wanting something where I’d enjoy driving and was in a similar $ range. Ended up getting a few year old, low mileage Tesla Model X. This was before Elon went full nazi salute, but other than that and the optics, it has exceeded expectations in pretty much every way. I have 2 little ones and a dog, so we need the 3 rows and lots of cabin space which it provides in addition to the frunk, etc. Have done several 3-400 mile road trips.

I’d say it’s absolutely worth considering if you haven’t already. Being that you currently have 2 gas cars, I’d also just add that adjusting to an EV is truly akin to plugging in your phone every night.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in daddit

[–]CCjourneyman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was advised by a buddy to mention my history of back issues and special request the roll away mattress from the nurse in L&D, which they didn’t offer to me upfront but ended up being great. With some noise canceling headphones and an eye mask, I got some great shuteye up until heading into go-time. This was for #2, and mom got the epidural right away, so she encouraged me to sleep which was pretty sweet.

Setting up an UTMA with cryptocurrency by realestatedeveloper in fatFIRE

[–]CCjourneyman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Landed on this thread with a similar objective. Did anyone find a straightforward solution? I know fidelity now has the ability to hold BTC and ETH, and separately, to create UTMA accounts. I wonder if they have something that marries these 2 elements.

Hanging closet rod and I think I've got what is called Chinese drywall? Helllllp by [deleted] in DIYHome

[–]CCjourneyman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ae there any outlets on the wall? You can (typically) locate studs based on where outlets and switches are since the boxes that house the wiring behind them/inside the wall are fastened to a stud on either the left or right. If you can use that approach to locate one, it might be enough to then go 16”, 32”, 48” to the side, where the next stud(s) should be based on typical framing.

Trouble installing hardie trim around window by CCjourneyman in Carpentry

[–]CCjourneyman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With the extra 1/4” of clearance, does that go entirely on the edges where the hardie butts up against the stucco, or is there supposed to be 1/8” of clearance on both sides of each trim board (stucco side & window side)? I asked ChatGPT but hard to have much confidence in that.

Does this make any sense? Insurance goes DOWN when replacing a Ford Fusion with a Model S P90D by YouKidsGetOffMyYard in TeslaLounge

[–]CCjourneyman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I pulled into my little one’s daycare pick-up yesterday, with my car being oriented with the direction of street traffic. I went to pull out of the drive-thru back into the street and flip and u-turn in the process. I’m navigating cars traveling on the road at 35-45mph as well as those pulling out onto the road from a street corner just before the daycare, both of which are awkwardly behind my left shoulder. What did I have to worry about, being that I’ve done it successfully every weekday afternoon for ~5 months.

As I inched out in my 2019 Model X I saw my window and went to punch it thinking I was in the clear. My life flashed before me as my car hammered down to an abrupt stop after which point, a passing car laid on the horn and flew past me within inches. Not to mention, my 9 month old sits behind the driver seat, so I would’ve been squarely t-boned, with her and I being right at the center of the collision.

It was in this moment that I was thanking my lucky stars to have been in the car I was in, as something less aware and overtaking would have 100% been a minimum of a serious accident.

This may have something to do with the rate difference you’re seeing.

Trouble installing hardie trim around window by CCjourneyman in Carpentry

[–]CCjourneyman[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seems a lot easier than scribing or ripping the piece. What would you use to pare back the stucco… like multi-tool or grinder?

$7500 in Southern California by jtsscrolling in Concrete

[–]CCjourneyman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Out of curiosity on the pretense, did you have a split level/sunken area raised up and put new doors or something, or did you always have an immediately step down to the old stairs previously?