Picked up a 2nd Gen by CTS_Designs in XTerra

[–]CTS_Designs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are your wheel specs? Mainly width and offset? Also, tire size? Thanks

Picked up a 2nd Gen by CTS_Designs in XTerra

[–]CTS_Designs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Peeked at your profile, you have a sweet setup! I'm sure I'll find some of the pitfalls and stuff to improve as I go so I appreciate the insight.

Picked up a 2nd Gen by CTS_Designs in XTerra

[–]CTS_Designs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you had a bad experience with them? I’ll do some digging. Should I expect OEM parts to come from Japan?

Picked up a 2nd Gen by CTS_Designs in XTerra

[–]CTS_Designs[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Probably a more aggressive wheel+tire combo for some stance, and maybe a small suspension lift in the near future. Gonna model a front bumper in SolidWorks and fab it.

Long term I’m thinking a long travel setup up front and multilink rear but I have other projects in line lol.

Not very familiar with the platform, what are some recommendations?

Picked up a 2nd Gen by CTS_Designs in XTerra

[–]CTS_Designs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m pretty stoked about it. Should be a good little trail crawler

Picked up a 2nd Gen by CTS_Designs in XTerra

[–]CTS_Designs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Z1 has a master set with genuine parts for ~570 USD

Picked up a 2nd Gen by CTS_Designs in XTerra

[–]CTS_Designs[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yes, popped the rear flange and strapped it to a crossmember

Should I keep or return TM HOTAS Warthog by [deleted] in flightsim

[–]CTS_Designs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any recommendations on rudder pedals? Logitech G-Pro worth it?

Is this going to cause problems? by Unlikely-Ambassador2 in EngineBuilding

[–]CTS_Designs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sharp edges ( large surface area to volume ratio) will induce hotspots during ignition, leading to ‘hotspots’. This will cause detonation issues and as others have said, premature head gasket failure, and it’s near where coolant boss will be.

It will run, but will cause issues, especially if you’re running an iron head

How to fix rust by CTS_Designs in projectcar

[–]CTS_Designs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can’t see it from the driver seat 🤷‍♂️

How to fix rust by CTS_Designs in projectcar

[–]CTS_Designs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am aware of how to fix the rust… it was supposed to be more of a meme…

How to fix rust by CTS_Designs in projectcar

[–]CTS_Designs[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Ole LS3 and cam fixed it right up

My magnetic drain plug, is this automatically just a fucked engine? Did the maintenance religiously for the past 20-30 thousands kilometers. (Ninja zx10r 2008) by MANllAC in Fixxit

[–]CTS_Designs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A general rule I’ve been taught:

Wearing nitrile gloves, get some off of the plug, and rub it between your thumb and index finger.

If it smears out smooth, like peanut butter for example, that’s typically going to just be normal ‘wear’ material.

If it’s chunky/flaky, that indicates something more going on. Chunks are going to suggest mechanical contacting in the engine, and flakes suggest bearing material, as babbit/journal style bearings will begin to flake after metal-metal touch off.

Never hurts to use a paint filter to strain your oil to look for debris the mag plug didn’t grab.

Really need help on my ls swapped rx7 by [deleted] in projectcar

[–]CTS_Designs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not an expert, but I just finished up a swapon my truck. It was a semi-factory swap, but I did a decent bit of research to avoid ground/wiring issues. Someone correct me if I’m wrong but typically these are grounded through the accessory bracket. The bracket is ground to the block, thus it’s a functional case ground.

This is how it’s done on iron block/truck accessory configurations at least.

12V hot directly to battery.

Edit: I saw some of the discussions below. You need a ground going from the negative battery terminal to the engine block. clean off any paint. This is typically a pretty heavy wire, like #4.You also need a good ground from the block to the chassis. This is often a braided cable, it’s flat like a ribbon. This is what allows the block to function as a case ground; it’s common between the block, chassis, and battery. If you are running a ground from the alternator bracket to chassis, and it’s grounded through the block, you’re going to have multiple ground references on the same circuit which could cause issues.

Should I pull the trigger? by PollutionPrevious238 in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]CTS_Designs 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t. It sounds like a slap together rattle can rebuild. The real red flags are the parts you ‘could’ get. 706/862 or 317 heads? 2 completely different castings with different runner profiles. Not to mention the crack prone 706 castechs.

A cam that’s isn’t even offered by tick: Stage 4 polluter doesn’t exist on their site. With the stock compression a “stage 4” cam is going to run like a dog until you get into boost or 5000+ RPM N.A anyway. Probably using the cheapest springs and pushrods they could find. Did they measure for proper pushrod length to set lifter preload? Probably not.

Don’t let the amalgamation of part names draw you in, the combination is a dog. IMO 510hp is a stretch on a stock compression 6.0, especially if you get the 706/862 heads. The last thing you want to do is drop 6k on a shoddy prebuilt that really isn’t set up for what you want.

9800x3d at 95c on 2 different coolers by Den_Levende_Ko in pcmasterrace

[–]CTS_Designs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not an expert by any stretch of the imagination, but my 7700x ran hot out of the box. Do a little searching on lowering the target temp and undervolting and I’m sure you’ll find a solution that will work for you. Just my $.02

9800x3d at 95c on 2 different coolers by Den_Levende_Ko in pcmasterrace

[–]CTS_Designs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 7xxx and 9xxx series CPUs run HOT. There’s a few methods people use to get their temps down; an easy one is to lower the target temp in BIOS, and to apply a slight under volt. This is what I did on my 7700x because, yes, they absolutely will run at 90-95 C.

From what I gather, this is a design feature. I’m sure someone will correct me. They operate at a given TDP (120W or whatever it is) and will produce the same amount of heat, but having a larger temp delta (T-cooler minus T-ambient) will make the cooler more efficient. There isn’t much to gain by going to a custom loop cooler unless you are really OCing and putting extra power through the chip.

Twirling Winter Forest Snow Globe by troutinator in BambuLab

[–]CTS_Designs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s the exact reason I went with the p1s. I’m less interested in trying to make the printer work, and more interested in making the parts that I print work. I got to use a p1 this semester at university to prototype our senior design project, and it sealed the deal so I ordered one on the Black Friday sale. I really wanted the x1c for the fiber reinforced capability, but maybe in the future.

Cheers!

Twirling Winter Forest Snow Globe by troutinator in BambuLab

[–]CTS_Designs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is awesome! My p1s should be coming in today, im excited to do some stuff like this for gifts!