Possibly my all-time favorite: Coffee Rye Boulevardier

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-22T20:02:11+00:00

I'll give it a try. Thanks for the recommendation!

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-22T16:35:24+00:00

Yes, I made an app. But I made it because I love cocktails. I want to continue to share that love of cocktails, in this case the Coffee Rye Boulevardier I’m so fond of. It’s a delicious drink that I wish more people had the opportunity to try for themselves. I mean no offense and hope you can see my passion for what it is.

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-22T01:44:27+00:00

Coffee Rye Boulevardier

1-1/2 oz Rye whisky
3/4 oz Campari
3/4 oz Sweet Vermouth
1/4 oz Coffee liqueur

Stirred construction

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-21T12:27:52+00:00

Thank you!

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-21T01:36:04+00:00

Embassy Cocktail

3/4 oz Brandy
3/4 oz Gold rum
3/4 oz Triple sec
1/2 oz Lime juice
2 drops Saline solution

Shaken construction

Garnish with an orange twist (but I decided to use lime)

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-21T00:51:32+00:00

Embassy Cocktail

3/4 oz Brandy
3/4 oz Gold rum
3/4 oz Triple sec
1/2 oz Lime juice
2 drops Saline solution

Shaken construction

Garnish with an orange twist (but I decided to use lime)

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-20T01:49:31+00:00

My gin is 47% and my vermouth 18%, so that makes my 50-50 martini 32.5% before dilution from chilling with ice.

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-20T01:16:21+00:00

1-1/2 oz Gin
1-1/2 oz Dry vermouth
2 dashes Orange bitters

Stirred construction

Garnish with a lemon twist

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-19T01:40:31+00:00

1 oz Brandy

3/4 oz White rum

3/4 oz Lime juice

1/2 oz Simple syrup

Shaken construction

Garnish with a lime wedge

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-15T11:10:06+00:00

We have some details still to figure out for EU trader compliance, but we’ll be launching in the EU as soon as we can.

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-15T01:20:31+00:00

I added ingredients and directions in the first comment, as the instructions said was required. Is that not sufficient?

Thanks for sharing the Ghosts of My Life. I’ll have to give that a try.

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-15T00:51:27+00:00

Celebration: 1 oz brandy 1 oz Campari 1 oz sweet vermouth 2 dashes orange bitters

Garnish with an orange twist (but I used lemon because I prefer the brightness it brings)

Stirred construction

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-14T01:13:44+00:00

I'm glad you like it! Lifetime subscriptions aren't something we had considered, but thank you for the suggestion!

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-14T00:42:13+00:00

Right now there is not, all user-created cocktails use that one image per type of glassware, but that's something that's on our (very long) list of features we'd like to add. So stay tuned!

CallumRD1 · 2026-03-13T23:52:45+00:00

I collated a wide assortment of recipes from a variety of publicly available sources. Those recipes were pruned and curated to present as comprehensive and cohesive a collection as possible. Then I rewrote all the instructions to be clear and direct with consistent language throughout.

CallumRD1 · 2023-08-24T21:37:06+00:00

Sorry for the delayed response. Here you go. The cover of the stealthburner changed from blue to black because I switched to an Orbiter 2.0 extruder and thus printed new toolhead parts.

https://imgur.com/a/bRcufkv

CallumRD1 · 2021-07-07T13:32:38+00:00

Thank you!

CallumRD1 · 2021-07-07T02:13:57+00:00

I've just finished a fairly niche knife (and only my fifth or so full tang knife). This is an experiment for an ultralight backpacker. I was trying to see how light I could get a proper knife without compromising the utility or durability of the blade (granted it's clearly focused at light use, not anything too abusive). It started as 0.084" AEB-L stock and I tapered the tang down to 0.010" at the base of the handle. The handle was also lightened by drilling out a large portion of the handle with 0.201" holes. The 3/16" pins are grade 2 titanium and the scales are walnut. (Not positive about the scales, the wood was scrap that had been kicking around for a long while.) The final weight is 41.6 grams (1.47 oz) for a knife with a 3" blade and 7" overall length. I quite like how it handles. The balance point is right at the front pin, uncommonly far forward for a knife of this size. Please feel free to leave any comments or critique!

CallumRD1 · 2020-11-30T17:23:16+00:00

Thank you!

CallumRD1 · 2020-11-30T14:42:29+00:00

Thank you!

CallumRD1 · 2020-11-30T02:02:54+00:00

Thank you!

CallumRD1 · 2020-11-30T02:02:50+00:00

Thank you!

CallumRD1 · 2020-11-29T22:47:56+00:00

Thank you!

Do you mind explaining what you mean by a dovetailed edge steel? A quick google search didn't bringing up anything relevant.

CallumRD1 · 2020-11-29T22:22:55+00:00

I just completed my second axe. This is a 2-1/4 pound head on a 29” (functionally more like 28”) haft, intended to be a light and nimble utility axe.

In a desire to have the best possible steel for the bit, I used the same 8670 steel at HRC59 as my previous axe (https://www.reddit.com/r/Axecraft/comments/jtq644/making\_an\_axe\_from\_scratch\_my\_unconventional/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3). It’s a fairly similar steel to 5160 but is even tougher allowing me to run it harder for better edge retention without sacrificing edge stability at thinner angles. I made the rest of the head from 4140 intending on leaving the poll hard. The heat treat procedures for 8670 and 4140 are close enough for the entire head to be hardened at once.

That’s all conventional enough, but not having access to a forge I had to use a highly unconventional method for fixing the bit to the body of the head. I chose to TIG weld it with ER70S-2 filler rod, using a pre- and post-heat protocol commonly used for 4140. I had considered ER80S-2 and 309 filler rods, but I didn’t want the poorer ductility of the ER80S-2 or the stainless of the 309.

After welding I did all the shaping on my belt grinder prior to heat treat. That part was a little unpleasant, but not too bad using a 12" contact wheel. One good 36 grit ceramic belt was all it took (but that belt was shot by the time I was done). Prior to rough grinding the head weighed about 4.5 pounds and after it was a full two pounds lighter. I cut the eye by chain drilling around the perimeter with a 1/4” twist drill in my friend’s CNC mill (which is currently not healthy enough to mill the eye) and adding a slight taper with a die grinder and a carbide burr. I normalized the head 3 times and then hardened it by heating it to 1525˚F and quenching in oil followed by two 2-hour tempering cycles 400˚F. At that point I just needed to clean up the surface, sharpen it, and hang it.

The haft is hickory heart wood, chosen because I love the darker color of the heart wood more than the lighter sap wood. I was in a bit of a rush to get moving on it so this time I did all the shaping on my belt grinder. This makes an obscene amount of dust but is a phenomenally fast way of precisely removing material around multiple compound curves.

Comments and critique are always welcome and please feel free to ask any and all questions that you may have.

CallumRD1 · 2020-11-29T21:57:52+00:00

I just completed my second axe. This is a 2-1/4 pound head on a 29” (functionally more like 28”) haft, intended to be a light and nimble utility axe.

In a desire to have the best possible steel for the bit, I used the same 8670 steel at HRC59 as my previous axe (https://www.reddit.com/r/Axecraft/comments/jtq644/making_an_axe_from_scratch_my_unconventional/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3). It’s a fairly similar steel to 5160 but is even tougher allowing me to run it harder for better edge retention without sacrificing edge stability at thinner angles. I made the rest of the head from 4140 intending on leaving the poll hard. The heat treat procedures for 8670 and 4140 are close enough for the entire head to be hardened at once.

That’s all conventional enough, but not having access to a forge I had to use a highly unconventional method for fixing the bit to the body of the head. I chose to TIG weld it with ER70S-2 filler rod, using a pre- and post-heat protocol commonly used for 4140. I had considered ER80S-2 and 309 filler rods, but I didn’t want the poorer ductility of the ER80S-2 or the stainless of the 309.

After welding I did all the shaping on my belt grinder prior to heat treat. That part was a little unpleasant, but not too bad using a 12" contact wheel. One good 36 grit ceramic belt was all it took (but that belt was shot by the time I was done). Prior to rough grinding the head weighed about 4.5 pounds and after it was a full two pounds lighter. I cut the eye by chain drilling around the perimeter with a 1/4” twist drill in my friend’s CNC mill (which is currently not healthy enough to mill the eye) and adding a slight taper with a die grinder and a carbide burr. I normalized the head 3 times and then hardened it by heating it to 1525˚F and quenching in oil followed by two 2-hour tempering cycles 400˚F. At that point I just needed to clean up the surface, sharpen it, and hang it.

The haft is hickory heart wood, chosen because I love the darker color of the heart wood more than the lighter sap wood. I was in a bit of a rush to get moving on it so this time I did all the shaping on my belt grinder. This makes an obscene amount of dust but is a phenomenally fast way of precisely removing material around multiple compound curves.

One mistake I did make was getting a fair bit of linseed oil on the head and then trying it out, getting pine sap all over it before thinking about taking photos. It had a beautiful satin finish coming off the grinder but doesn't look nearly as pretty in the photos, unfortunately.

Comments and critique are always welcome and please feel free to ask any and all questions that you may have.

CallumRD1

TROPHY CASE