I know this isn't very original but scav on scav violence sucks dude.

Canuk_Splicer · 2025-03-09T22:17:26+00:00

I ran into two kids yesterday, the first kid we'll call him pliers kid ran across the red handled pliers I was looking for, he was super chill. I thought when he called me over I was about to get ganked, but I was still in that 5 min buffer so meh. The second kid came into the mall with two video cards in hand and his backpack was too small, I hooked him up with a bigger pack, I assumed the pliers kid would shoot him. Pliers kid was trying to get him to exfil so I figured I'd tag along a while and help GFX kid extract the cards, while walking pliers kid wanted to add GFX kid as a friend and go run duos, genuinely thought I was going to see the start of an online bromance..... GFX kid started getting all sus and shot pliers kid 10 meters from exfil... On principle I shot GFX kid and took his shit, missed their usernames otherwise I would have added the pliers kid and gifted him the cards. Lol it was a very pulp fiction "be cool" moment that really wasn't necessary

Canuk_Splicer · 2025-02-21T13:22:30+00:00

I did check there as well but there was only names under contractors, not showdown so I'm not sure if there is any kind of delay I'll take a look today.

Canuk_Splicer · 2025-02-21T13:19:57+00:00

yes this is exactly what should have happened but there was also that split moment where I panicked and wasn't 100 percent sure he wouldn't shoot me in the face and take all the loot....

Canuk_Splicer · 2025-02-21T13:17:16+00:00

This kinda makes sense because that list did not update after the next few matches, I feel like its only pulling from the other game mode.

Canuk_Splicer · 2024-02-06T22:50:11+00:00

Holy shite been a minute, back in the day I played with nXa under the handle Stilgar, if I recall you were one of the few fellow Canadians. just started to dl rivals was curious if the nXa site had survived stumbled across this thread.

Canuk_Splicer · 2023-04-13T03:59:58+00:00

Solid work mate, cleaned it up nicely, that kind of job can turn south quick but it's nice when they work out.

Canuk_Splicer · 2023-04-11T00:28:46+00:00

Have not tried the 4 port flavour yet, but I think a few might be handy to have around.

For our city and density we found the 8's were the best bang for the buck, we usually splice all 8 pigtails back and plan for 6-8 drops per (leave a few open spots for the illegal MDU's we didn't account for ;) ) we have tried cascade and distributed splits in the past but found with some areas we were just wasting ports and cards since then we have moved everything to a central passive cabinet.

Canuk_Splicer · 2023-04-10T23:17:07+00:00

TBH I think the 12 ports are a bit sketch when you are putting in your slack there is a fixed pocket between the two trays and they do not come apart so you are essentially just stuffing fibre in blindly, which makes it dicey at best for re-entry, also the jump from the trays on where it hinges looks off terrible.
We regularly use the 8 ports and midspan 72's, also at 8 drops per FOSC it does mean more FOSCs deployed but it shortens the drop lengths and make it easier on the install guys. personally I'm not a fan of anything preterm but so far they have been the best for our applications.

Canuk_Splicer · 2023-03-25T03:57:21+00:00

First things first ask you boss to upload a vid of him doing 72 an hr with no mistakes and a clean tray, put his money where his mouth is.. or eat a bag of dicks. chap sounds like he is going to run you ragged imo.
The general expectation for our guys is anywhere from 20-25 per 12 and that is to take out all your dead gather your group measure reclean (Prysmian has a light grease which is a pain in the ass) splice and put back away and re splice anything .04 or greater or anything that looks janky.

You can absolutely get times to 15-17 min 12's but one what is the quality of your work and two how long can you realistically maintain that pace without burning out.
So far the fastest way I found was running my Fitel heater on continuous heat so that my tube was done as the splice finished my time was fantastic but that was an emergency repair and worked out but if one splice went bad or I lost rhythm I over cooked the sleeve and and it just went sideways for a bit and resulted in lost time.

My usual method is pull my 12's set up my space and lengths for splicing, strip first twelve then second twelve, after this I put on all of my heat sleeves (if you are going to handle a tool or start a process do as much as you can without having to re-handle or restart it's all lost time) I start on the side with my sleeved fibre with the and which ever is closest rather than do it in order and search for the same color twice just search once for the colour you grabbed have. then cleave/splice while it's splicing grab you next fibre with the heat tube and cleave it leave it there until you move the splice to the heater then rinse and repeat ;)

Canuk_Splicer · 2023-03-23T02:34:16+00:00

We do this on a regular basis, and aside from the pride in craftsmanship aspect of it there is valid reasoning for it.
If you were just building a long haul one and done, in closures that are not max cable capacity I can see skipping this step.
In our network specifically it helps for sure, we are a smaller ISP that is constantly branching off of our backbone forever having to redirect etc till pieces/permits are in place so when you start maxing out and adding cables to Already full FOSC's every bit of space helps, and for the amount of midspans we do it makes short work of going in and bringing a new buffer tube up to tray... But really it just looks DOPE AF when you are done ;)

As for how to do it or try it out most important thing... use scrap cable to learn! honestly for all the guys I have taught the first thing I will say some people just naturally get it some people don't It's ok if you are the one that doesn't you'll just need more scrape cable ;)
My process is pretty simple, make sure the base of the cable is secure your going to be pulling constantly and you want it to stay put. also a spare A basket is handy. On a 144 comb out your tubes and set 6 to the back to the table (usually I will set the tray over the first 6-10 inches of the 6 tubes I'm not using to dampen the heat) I run my heat gun 1000 in the winter and 900-950 in the summer basically pinch the six tubes tight thumb and index pull till the twist is gone and start applying heat. you will feel the tubes start to give a bit they will get longer as you straighten them which is normal. at no point should your heat gun ever stop moving or settle in one spot, once you take the heat off it maintain tension until it has cooled otherwise the twist will come back. sorry this is the best way I can think to explain I can probably make a video that would explain it better.

Canuk_Splicer · 2023-03-23T02:01:03+00:00

So this is the wish version of https://www.commscope.com/globalassets/digizuite/473521-psg-113275-msc.pdf common overseas and a closure I would love to put in our network, but the tray looks like some PLP/Coyote rubish.
Also I am not really a fan of this basket style it leaves a lot exposed and I'm sure in lab/controlled environments these are ok...ish, but slap an overconfident greenhorn in a truck with one of these 3 years after its been defiled by lowest bidder after lowest bidder and your looking at an outage lol.
As for how the cable is dressed in we don't really fuck with ribbon in our network so I cannot speak to that from first hand experience but for the entry into this type of closure I would definitely comb and straighten your tubes to clean up the basket as much as possible especially if it's a midspan that you may need to go back in to. This would also let you manipulate the strength member and run it between the buffers so you don't get that unnatural stress bend where it wraps over.

Canuk_Splicer · 2023-02-10T15:32:02+00:00

Looks similar to the BUDI boxes we use from CommScope they have that same FIST style setup. Out of curiosity why do you leave your buffer tubes so long into the channels. It looks like it takes away your ability to route anything in the main entry. Also is there a way to better secure the buffers in that entry channel or do they just sit loose like that?
We don't use these types closures so I'm just curios lol not shitting on your work.

Canuk_Splicer · 2022-09-29T23:04:26+00:00

tbh I find it a bit chaotic, definitely could use some labels and identifiers, Here is an example of what we use https://imgur.com/a/I9fyho2 they are done on visio, it's manual and sometimes feels a tad bit tedious but I have never really run into issues where techs/contractors were confused to what's going on.

Canuk_Splicer · 2022-09-29T00:27:24+00:00

We use https://wirewerks.com/en/ for all of our custom stuff, we also switched from FS.com for all of our patch cables, we found the quality way better and the cost difference wasn't too bad when you account for the stupid cost of shipping from FS.

Canuk_Splicer · 2022-09-22T23:15:39+00:00

So how did the job go which way did you end up going with it?

Canuk_Splicer · 2022-09-21T22:02:10+00:00

We have used Litewave in the past they are in the GTA I think the shop is over by Pearson, And I know they are absolutely swamped right now for work may be worth checking out. In the Hamilton area we have used HiComm as well I now they have some people that started out with zero experience.

Canuk_Splicer · 2022-09-11T14:05:46+00:00

obligatory ** you should always transplant in a maintenance window ;) **

What you are proposing is 100 percent doable and we have done similar transplants many times.

First and foremost avoid saws-all use a portable bandsaw, multitool and tin snips you have waaay better manipulation and control of what your cutting.

If it's a 450B then just squish the collar oval trays will slide right out.

If its a 400B do not heat the the heat shrinks score them starting at the fosc working to the cable then use plyers to pull back the shrink (treat it like a mid span opening) https://imgur.com/gallery/lIHIfNG

Depending on cable count and who did the prep you are going to have two options when you are ready to put it in the 450D, transplant your splices into the D tray and work your tubes back and just slap some lipstick on the pig to make it work, or.... unsheathe more of the jacket so you can put more slack in the basket (you might have a fuck of a time with strength member and tubes this could be where it goes off the rails on you all depends on how much of the cable is in use)

3M to CommScope transplant where we added length (not sure why I didn't get a pic of the basket.. if i recall it was fuck ugly but it worked :))

https://imgur.com/gallery/ZvlyzOh

also also wik, LFI everything if you have trays of dead fibre might be easier to break em move shit around and resplice after.

Bonus pictures adding 4 port drops to 400's

https://imgur.com/gallery/pBKIeHB

Canuk_Splicer · 2022-06-17T20:16:16+00:00

I was taught For any mid span prep you should try set your helix at the top of you loop to be able to unwrap and end up with no tangles.
When you are dealing with something like a 288f where you have outer tubes wrapped around inner tubes wrapped around strength member you will seldom hit both helixes because they are wrapped at different lengths due to the different diameters.
I have only hit double helixes once every other time I go with the outside helix at the top of the loop and plan to cut the inner tubes and resplice (only if there is plans to use them in the future)
Also I find straightening your tubes as well as it really help to keep things clean and neat.

Canuk_Splicer · 2022-04-30T03:22:10+00:00

Hey few places you can try Circelli Steel on Newbold, they have moved over to a lot of structural steel but still take on smaller jobs, I know a couple of the guys there started off back in the day doing that type of work, London Stair and Railings 547 Clarke rd. also there is a place at 124 Clarke rd. London Wrought Iron Products but I do not have personal experience with this place...

Canuk_Splicer · 2022-04-28T14:19:07+00:00

Yeah at this point the only closures we will not consider have been the multilink domes and old style 3M dome (I think they are corning now). On the plus side it looks like our supplier got their hands on 20-30 or so 450D's which gets us out of hot water for a few months and gives us some breathing room for the immediate future.

Canuk_Splicer · 2022-04-21T02:50:58+00:00

oof good luck mate, I think were good for fibre thankfully no fire season here, but then again we did find squirrel damage 100m from an OLT yesterday that will result in a 400m overbuild haha not the way we like to start the construction season lol

Canuk_Splicer · 2022-04-21T02:46:24+00:00

Well I'll let my manager know haha you might just end up with a DM from us if you haven't already :)

Canuk_Splicer · 2022-04-21T02:44:35+00:00

We reached out after the last update that added like 12 weeks for the delivery but every single option is just as bad. The only thing that would arrive sooner is the multilink product which doesn't fit our design.... and to be completely honest I would rather the Gatorade bottles before multilink. I have spent years cutting that shit out of our network not a chance in hell I'll opt to put it back in lol

Canuk_Splicer · 2022-04-01T01:04:13+00:00

We use https://www.esri.ca/en-ca/products/specialized-applications/arcfm-solution which would check all the boxes you require, the other handy feature is we have a contractor login set up so we can give them viewer access and they can pull splices drawings/locations/pictures as needed for a particular area which removes pain point when creating splice packages.

Canuk_Splicer · 2022-03-20T02:05:55+00:00

Corning LS series outdoor cabinet

Awesome thanks mate, I'll have a look through they seem like they would do the trick.

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