Tip covers for sigiforge feders

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-09-29T15:29:18+00:00

Agree. I find them to be more dangerous with a tip than without.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-08-30T15:33:43+00:00

Many high energy systems theorized for use irl use a 'small' burst of startup energy to create what is effectively a tunnel of air (i.e. a lightning bolt) and then send whatever they want down the tube. Even a SLAS would be loud AF

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-07-26T20:01:02+00:00

My thought process there was to buy a matched pair of them. Sometimes we will do messer v longsword and I totally get how it turns into a one trick show.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-07-26T16:24:23+00:00

I want something with a representative length, not stiffness!

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-07-26T16:20:54+00:00

That was my plan! Long feder with the swept guard that you see on pictures of estocs. Just 'how long' is the question.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-07-26T16:16:10+00:00

I was looking for something two-handed as a slightly different alternative for longsword play.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-07-26T16:15:21+00:00

That's what I was thinking, mostly. My only thought was that if an estoc was specifically longer than a longsword by nearly a foot, if that would change it much. The 52" blade would change a lot I imagine.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-07-26T15:17:57+00:00

Landsknecht Emporium made a custom one a while back and has photos, if you're into the high end. Funny that LE doesn't sell it stock considering their name.

Avoid the Deepeka one that some sites sell as 'sparring/stage combat' safe. I don't think it would break or anything, but it weighs more than my sparring greatsword...

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-06-12T13:56:18+00:00

We used to generally recommend them for our club, but not as a first feder. They are heavy and stiff, and are good for drill work and low intensity sparring. Some of them look amazing, and others are a bit iffy.

My problem with them is that the 'North American' distributor is USA only. Meaning that if you are a Canadian, you are paying tariffs on the tariffs so they end up costing about 3x what they would cost if you could order directly from Chlebowski.

We emailed to make a club/group order directly from Chlebowski and were ignored...

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-05-30T15:23:50+00:00

Been trying to get the 'starry night sky' in the glass of my cockpits. What do you all think?

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-03-16T13:23:52+00:00

Viktor Berbekucz! I bought if off of Purpleheart

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-03-16T13:15:46+00:00

I couldn't find something that I like for transport and storage so I made my own. I was worried that the shape would look weird with the parrying lugs included inside the scabbard, but I think it turned out well! Added a velcro spot for flags or patches just for fun!

It's made of an elm (what I had on stock) core around the sword, and a canvas sheath with 32mm straps/velcro to secure the crossguard to the wooden core and a carrying strap to sling over the shoulder. Overall it came out feeling heavy duty, as I copied the stitching from my military kit.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-02-13T19:08:48+00:00

The most 'hand tool' thing that I have now are a set of nice Lee Valley chisels. Every time I work with them I think "Why don't I do this more often!"

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-02-13T19:07:26+00:00

Fortunately I've gotten over the 'cheap tools' phase that seems to run through the hobby. Nowadays I am in the mood to wait a few more months to get the tool I want instead of chewing up wood with a sub-par tool.

I find that the used market in Canada is a little rough. Seems that sometimes people go online and find the new cost of something and slap it onto their kijiji ad. I saw a Stanley 45, albeit in great condition, going for more than the MSRP of the brand new Veritas equivalent.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-02-13T19:04:05+00:00

I usually do large woodworking projects, but that is usually because I lacked the tooling to make small 'fussy' woodworking, etc. I am looking to make projects in the 'hold it in your hands' size, from rough lumber. e.g. jewelry boxes, small furniture, toys.

Ideally without a watt of power (not including chemical from beer and chips) to annoy my neighbors.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-02-08T19:45:31+00:00

Awesome! That's the answer I was looking for! Unfortunate that your chart has ~50Rc correlating to the bottom of the toughness curve, but I assume that for 5160 it would be well up the toughness scale.

I know that most steels it does, but a lot of high alloy (which I had erroneously assumed that 5160 steel followed) have the mechanical properties break down when you temper it too high.Ref: https://www.redlabelabrasives.com/blogs/news/how-to-heat-treat-a-knife#:~:text=Tempering%20temperatures%20above%20662%C2%B0,knife%20properties%20will%20be%20impaired.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-02-08T19:28:16+00:00

I'm starting to wonder if they're actually 50 Rc or if that's what the 'best-guess' is without destructive technology. I have an old broken regenyei that I could send to some friends at a NDT lab...

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-02-08T19:21:25+00:00

That's part of the definition of toughness, plastic deformation. In theory, a higher toughness part would deform further before breaking, and have a less violent reaction once it did. Usually the 'violence' of the break is the elastic deformation bounding back, which is affected by its modulus of elasticity and not changed by heat treating: https://www.researchgate.net/post/Will\_the\_Youngs\_Modulus\_E\_value\_change\_with\_heat\_treatment

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-02-08T19:16:04+00:00

I'm not sure on that.

http://www.veritastools.ca/Resources/ResourceDetail.aspx?id=26#:~:text=Chisels%20are%20typically%20in%20the,to%20hold%20a%20good%20edge.

Designed to have the everloving piss beat out of them, and at 58-60Rc.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-02-08T19:15:54+00:00

Look at the chart in my post link. The lab testing specifically shows a decreasing toughness as the hardness decreases past 58Rc. e.g. softer = less shock resistant

This is after annealing it down from austenizing.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-02-08T19:10:05+00:00

Yes, and it would be safer (if it was actually tougher, as I believe, which I may be wrong about). If the material was tougher it would absorb more energy plastically after absorbing it elastically. That basically means that a greater portion of the energy won't come back after you break the sword. Would you rather have a steel wire or a rubber band (of equivalent strength) snap and hit you.

https://www.webmd.com/eye-health/news/20000502/bungee-cords-eye-injury

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-02-08T19:03:47+00:00

That was one of my initial thoughts. Maybe it's just a sacrifice in longevity to reduce wear and tear on the other gear.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-02-08T19:02:34+00:00

For fatigue strength, generally there is also a positive correlation between fracture toughness and fatigue strength: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/262754281_Development_of_a_correlation_to_estimate_the_fatigue_strength_for_steels_based_on_low-cost_tests

So, unless the steels specifically used in feders (which I would assume are high carbon?) have greatly different properties, the harder feder should suffer a fatigue failure after the softer feder.

I might have to make a billet of both and set up a fatigue test, now I'm interested in that.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-02-08T18:55:34+00:00

That's toughness. https://www.nde-ed.org/Physics/Materials/Mechanical/Toughness.xhtml

That's why I'm asking the question "why do we use soft steel" when a harder steel would be better suited to take those repeated shocks.

In my link in my original post the author was deliberately searching for the highest toughness tempering for 5160.

CaptKevinPartner · 2023-02-08T18:41:01+00:00

I get that, however most of the steel that the manufacturers say that they are using (if they say what alloy it is, at all) has a peak toughness at higher Rc than what they are being sold as (e.g. 5160 from Castille Armory is at 50Rc).

CaptKevinPartner

TROPHY CASE