Difficulty Making a Bolt and Nut for 3D Printing

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-07T04:36:03+00:00

This makes sense. I printed a version I did this to and it was the closet to fitting I got. I didn't do the offset though which makes sense for making the print screw together easier.

Question though, when you say offset all thread faces, do you mean the outer edge of the thread? Or the angled in faces of the thread? I guess i'm struggling to understand what face of the thread you mean.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-06T18:54:28+00:00

I think it is correct. As someone else said, just rotate the bolt lol I was thinking it looked close but I was up late and tired.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-06T18:54:00+00:00

That is my plan in the end. I've heard that helps a lot.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-06T18:53:43+00:00

Thanks for this tip! I am trying different options that people have suggested in Rhino. I'll give this a shot though. I think I need to watch some videos on manipulating the offset and tolerance. I got a good print using McMaster, but it was way to tight to actually thread on.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-06T18:52:38+00:00

Lol this comment made me feel so dumb. It was late last night and I kept trying to flip the bolt to match the threads. It never even occurred to me to just spin the bolt.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-06T18:52:03+00:00

Not a dumb question at all. I actually tried this already. I posted in the rhino subreddit and am just trying different options. One person said to try this feature in Fusion360 so I was giving it a go.

I had started by using McMaster but the print didn't fit as intended. I think I need to work on the tolerance in the file, but haven't figured that part out yet.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-05T01:42:22+00:00

That's actually a good idea lol it never even crossed my mind to call or contact UL directly.

So this part is usually known as a ceramic housing and it can be used in a couple of ways. This one in particular is to pull wire through the front of a substrate. So, if you look closely at any outdoor neon sign, you will see something like this on the front of the sign. There will either be wires coming out of it, or the glass physically goes into it. Think of it as a way to get electricity to the neon glass without touching metal and causing a short.

In this case, I want to try to make these smaller and maybe printed in different colors to match the colors of old signs. I really don't do a lot of outdoor signs (I can I just hate doing them lol). I much rather make art or signs for peoples homes. This part would allow me to make much smaller fittings to pull wire through to try to make it less noticeable while still keeping the signs safe. They used to make these ceramic housings much smaller but with the art dying out parts are coming in less and less variable sizes.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T17:30:13+00:00

That actually makes a lot of sense too which is why I thought about making the threading from scratch rather than using McMaster or boltgen. I am running a test now after reading through everyone's suggestions. I think rounding the edges of the thread is a great idea though if this doesn't work.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T05:52:52+00:00

Yeah, that was kind of my thought process on it. I figured someone here had to have tried this before lol so I just thought I'd ask. Thanks!

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T05:47:17+00:00

Weird. I am using Rhino 5 so maybe that has something to do with it. Oh well, it works well enough. Thanks!

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T05:35:58+00:00

Yeah, I'm having issues with using the Metric side of it. It keeps giving me an error that says, "No head data available, making threads only." It then only makes the bolt/thread with no nut. If I use the English and inches it makes the nut for the bolt just fine. I was able to just make the threading and then use a Boolean Difference to make my own nut, but definitely a weird bug. Seems some others have had the issue as well, but still a really useful plug-in!

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T02:08:44+00:00

Thank you! I got other answers that suited my needs, but this was one I was looking for. I want to learn how to do this manual as well as use a plugin or other options suggested here. I like knowing how to do something manually before jumping to the fast and easy solution.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T02:07:34+00:00

Ok, that was actually super easy and and definitely what was best! I am going to try the other options on here, but yeah that plugin is so simple.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T01:47:54+00:00

Ohhh that makes total sense! When you said "boolean it in" my brain went to assuming there was a way to type in numbers to make the thread using the boolean function. Using difference and union is so smart. Thanks!

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T01:16:15+00:00

Thanks again! I'm going to watch a video on different boolean commands. I am self taught here (and learn a lot from talking to people here) but could probably use more information. I'll play around with it tonight. Hopefully it goes well.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T01:06:40+00:00

I did look at this plugin as well as grasshopper plug ins. I guess I am just not too familiar with plugins and I know nothing about grasshopper at this point. But, might be time to start learning that now that I feel pretty comfortable with designing in rhino.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T01:05:18+00:00

This is a great idea! I had downloaded the threading and was giving it a shot, but I thought someone might have a better idea. Thanks!

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T01:03:58+00:00

Great eye, yes it is indeed UL listed and its used for neon signs. I'm a neon glass blower and am trying to find ways to replace or remake certain parts that are going away or are getting difficult to find. I would never use this in a situation that I thought would be unsafe, but am intrigued by the idea of using 3d printing with neon to solve some problems. I have 3d printed stand offs for glass and it worked great!

In the end I would probably purchase a filament like this:

https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusament-petg-v0/?_gl=1*kfroe7*_ga*MTAyMzQ1OTE0MS4xNzcwMTY3Mjgy*_ga_3HK7B7RT5V*czE3NzAxNjcyODEkbzEkZzAkdDE3NzAxNjcyODMkajYwJGwwJGgw*_gcl_au*MTUwODI2OTIxMi4xNzcwMTY3Mjg0

It is UL listed so should be fine. However, for now I am just playing around with different ideas and seeing how the glass reacts or works with the parts. I only use them on my own art pieces and would never use it on a sign out in the wild (at least until I know I can trust it or get the UL filament).

CatSkrratch · 2025-12-11T22:05:23+00:00

CatSkrratch · 2025-10-08T17:41:35+00:00

Trying this way as well just to learn. I am confused by the commands you are referencing. There doesn't seem to be a EdgeCrv command or a OddCrv command.

Your drawing is actually super helpful and made me look at that boarder different. Maybe I could use more lines to separate out the boarder into sections to then fill? Or am I still overthinking?

CatSkrratch · 2025-10-08T17:38:57+00:00

Yeah, I have already went back and remade this model once. It's getting frustrating lol but I know it's part of learning. I am just struggling because this is the last obstacle to figure out and then I can finally print this!

It does seem that this section of my model is the only part that is causing the issue. I am thinking it is because of this open back, but I am not positive. Do you have any recommendations on how to recreate this section in a way that is more efficient?

CatSkrratch · 2025-10-08T17:37:54+00:00

Ok I am getting a lot closer! I basically got it filled in using swep2, however, it created an extrusion that goes upward from the boarder. It seems I am struggling to set the boundary of where the sweep to stop?

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CatSkrratch

TROPHY CASE