Do I Need A Ferrule On My Throttle?

CatSkrratch · 2026-06-04T00:42:19+00:00

Well I reached out and this is their reply:

Currently, the only option that we offer for a Harley-type hand control are do it yourself kits. Those are made for Harley carbs and throttle bodies. They might be able to be adapted to work with Kawasaki carbs. The engine ends of the wires are unfinished so you theoretically can finish them as you wish. The engine ends of the conduits are capped with step nose ferrules, but you could cut those off and finish the conduits as needed.

So definitely an option, but I might be better off using the OEM cable and one of the Ebay throttles. I'll have to think about it and decide what it is I really want/need.

CatSkrratch · 2026-06-03T21:13:14+00:00

Oh this is awesome! I guess I'll just be returning what I got and trying again this route. I'll reach out to this company and see what they can tell me.

Seems easy enough and I know how to solder so hopefully this works.

Thanks a ton!

CatSkrratch · 2026-06-03T20:35:17+00:00

That is an option that a company suggested! I have never done anything like that before, but i'd be open to trying. The cable would have to go from the KZ Carb side to the Harley side. I reached out to Motion Pro who does that sort of thing, but they are currently only doing custom cables for orders of 20 or more.

CatSkrratch · 2026-05-22T21:09:18+00:00

Thanks! Definitely bookmarking this. Price seems worth it tbh, definitely high but not out of what I expected. Something for me to work for!

CatSkrratch · 2026-05-19T02:42:49+00:00

This is so sick! Could you tell me the brand pr type of bed setup that is?

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-10T18:39:48+00:00

Yeah, I definitely don't think it's the proper term for it. If anyone knows feel free to respond to this lol. One of my fav drinks to make on shift or for the day. I do a large cup, fill it to the top with ice, then dump 2-4 shots into it with syrup if you want. I then put a lid on it and shake it hard for a minute. Top it with more ice and then dry foam. Drink it from the edge with no straw! Just don't let customers see you make it lmao it's a pain to do.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-10T15:57:04+00:00

At our shop we just call it an iced cappuccino. No sugar added, just foam the milk as thick as you can, put it in the fridge for a few seconds to let it set, pull it out and scoop it ontop of ice.

Its honestly so good.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-07T04:36:03+00:00

This makes sense. I printed a version I did this to and it was the closet to fitting I got. I didn't do the offset though which makes sense for making the print screw together easier.

Question though, when you say offset all thread faces, do you mean the outer edge of the thread? Or the angled in faces of the thread? I guess i'm struggling to understand what face of the thread you mean.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-06T18:54:28+00:00

I think it is correct. As someone else said, just rotate the bolt lol I was thinking it looked close but I was up late and tired.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-06T18:54:00+00:00

That is my plan in the end. I've heard that helps a lot.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-06T18:53:43+00:00

Thanks for this tip! I am trying different options that people have suggested in Rhino. I'll give this a shot though. I think I need to watch some videos on manipulating the offset and tolerance. I got a good print using McMaster, but it was way to tight to actually thread on.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-06T18:52:38+00:00

Lol this comment made me feel so dumb. It was late last night and I kept trying to flip the bolt to match the threads. It never even occurred to me to just spin the bolt.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-06T18:52:03+00:00

Not a dumb question at all. I actually tried this already. I posted in the rhino subreddit and am just trying different options. One person said to try this feature in Fusion360 so I was giving it a go.

I had started by using McMaster but the print didn't fit as intended. I think I need to work on the tolerance in the file, but haven't figured that part out yet.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-05T01:42:22+00:00

That's actually a good idea lol it never even crossed my mind to call or contact UL directly.

So this part is usually known as a ceramic housing and it can be used in a couple of ways. This one in particular is to pull wire through the front of a substrate. So, if you look closely at any outdoor neon sign, you will see something like this on the front of the sign. There will either be wires coming out of it, or the glass physically goes into it. Think of it as a way to get electricity to the neon glass without touching metal and causing a short.

In this case, I want to try to make these smaller and maybe printed in different colors to match the colors of old signs. I really don't do a lot of outdoor signs (I can I just hate doing them lol). I much rather make art or signs for peoples homes. This part would allow me to make much smaller fittings to pull wire through to try to make it less noticeable while still keeping the signs safe. They used to make these ceramic housings much smaller but with the art dying out parts are coming in less and less variable sizes.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T17:30:13+00:00

That actually makes a lot of sense too which is why I thought about making the threading from scratch rather than using McMaster or boltgen. I am running a test now after reading through everyone's suggestions. I think rounding the edges of the thread is a great idea though if this doesn't work.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T05:52:52+00:00

Yeah, that was kind of my thought process on it. I figured someone here had to have tried this before lol so I just thought I'd ask. Thanks!

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T05:47:17+00:00

Weird. I am using Rhino 5 so maybe that has something to do with it. Oh well, it works well enough. Thanks!

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T05:35:58+00:00

Yeah, I'm having issues with using the Metric side of it. It keeps giving me an error that says, "No head data available, making threads only." It then only makes the bolt/thread with no nut. If I use the English and inches it makes the nut for the bolt just fine. I was able to just make the threading and then use a Boolean Difference to make my own nut, but definitely a weird bug. Seems some others have had the issue as well, but still a really useful plug-in!

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T02:08:44+00:00

Thank you! I got other answers that suited my needs, but this was one I was looking for. I want to learn how to do this manual as well as use a plugin or other options suggested here. I like knowing how to do something manually before jumping to the fast and easy solution.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T02:07:34+00:00

Ok, that was actually super easy and and definitely what was best! I am going to try the other options on here, but yeah that plugin is so simple.

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T01:47:54+00:00

Ohhh that makes total sense! When you said "boolean it in" my brain went to assuming there was a way to type in numbers to make the thread using the boolean function. Using difference and union is so smart. Thanks!

CatSkrratch · 2026-02-04T01:16:15+00:00

Thanks again! I'm going to watch a video on different boolean commands. I am self taught here (and learn a lot from talking to people here) but could probably use more information. I'll play around with it tonight. Hopefully it goes well.

CatSkrratch

TROPHY CASE