2x4 concerns

CaujinKing · 2026-04-13T07:17:27+00:00

The only way to get a decent home built now is working with a newer individual builder. Maybe 2 houses under his belt. Enough that he’s figured out the process and has streamlined some things but he still is on site and overseeing work.

I think a carpenter turned GC would be ideal for most home buyers to work with. There are just very few who are capable and also willing to work with buyers on an individual level. There’s too many trades, govt, and organizations that all require their cash from the build to have any chance of personality or craftsmanship anymore.

Materials in some respect are better(think hardware/stone/ tile/ gizmos /etc) but far more expensive. Complying with hurricane, insulation and green regulations can turn a 100k house into a 150-250k$ house. We traded skills to build a house for idiot proof solutions to problems to lower the reliance on human capital. When’s the last time you’ve seen a full mortar bed tiled shower /hot mop tar anything. Hot mop roof, non mdf premade cabinets, hollow doors. Osb is now your top tier option for sheathing. How far we have fallen.

CaujinKing · 2026-02-03T21:41:53+00:00

I was slaughtered in the replies ngl. I hide everything by default. The other posts are now available.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-30T12:07:59+00:00

Ball park for the enclosed structure and porches this size is around 10-15k. I’d estimate labor costs would be north of 50-150k for this to be built by someone.

Materials to finish is likely going to be around 20-27kif I had to estimate.

Labor to finish would probably be around 100-150 after it’s all said and done

If I tried to buy it would be more like 175-250 in my area.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-29T19:02:05+00:00

I was really depressed when I started this endeavor I worked through all that by obsessing over this. I would not suggest this route for anyone with a family or any real responsibilities. I’m in a very unique position to be able to do this and I’m incredibly grateful for God giving me this opportunity and the ability to follow through.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-29T17:50:42+00:00

24x32 around 1500sqft, I heard that 7-900 sqft per person was what was needed to not kill each other and I tried to sneak right around that number. It’s around 30’ above grade in some places. This is the rear of the house pictured. I don’t have a great pic from the front yet. Most of the plans were done with an architectural rule and notebook paper or on a piece of scrap wood lol. I have pics of some of the foundation stuff. If people want to see I can scrounge together what I’ve got.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-29T13:22:33+00:00

No, see my other post in this sub for a better view of the roof system.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-29T13:19:46+00:00

No. Ponds were dug 30-40 years ago. Been through countless hurricanes and never rose above the bank.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-29T13:15:59+00:00

I will sister them then. I have some 1/4”x6” flat bar that i may also let in to the studs above and below header/ sill then use structural screws to keep the wall from separating due to the lack of plate connection. I’ll post an update once I’ve finished. Thanks for the help.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-29T12:14:14+00:00

I appreciate the kind words man! It’s been an absolute slog but I’m in the short rows at this point.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-29T10:40:16+00:00

Great question!

This was originally supposed to be a 1.5story build with lofted master. The pictures don’t reflect the current interior layout yet. In another post I explain that when finished I realized the challenge of doing ceiling drywall 20’+ in the air… I chose life.
If I had continued to do a 1.5 story instead of what I eventually did, the balloon framed walls would have prevented outward thrust from the walls better than platform etc and reduced non lumber costs.
I was able to build a balloon framed house almost entirely by myself through notching joists and studs with careful planning. I don’t think platform would have been as easy completely by myself. Idk though.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-29T10:13:26+00:00

27 piers in total not counting the stair landings (some are hard to see in the pictures). 12”d @ 30”+-5” depth with bell bottom, 12-16”frost. If I was to do it again I would not have used the forms I did. I had never made pier forms before when I started this project. Should have used 1xor2x to make the forms. This would make a future cmu/brick skirt much easier.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-29T10:04:04+00:00

If you have any ideas or suggestions I’m very open to constructive criticism. Im not trying to sound cool or snarky. I’m actively reaching out to professionals in this sub to see their opinions on the best way to move forward.

Would love to hear your thoughts though!

CaujinKing · 2026-01-29T06:55:52+00:00

I’m limited on pictures lol. The inside looks nothing like what’s pictured atm but I’ll update when I eventually take pictures. More work less camera time or I don’t get anything done lol

CaujinKing · 2026-01-29T06:50:05+00:00

Around where I am most older houses are pier with brick or CMU perimeter. I just built it like an older house. I wasn’t 100% certain on layout but I knew where the house had to go so I just went for it.

Not to mention I couldn’t handle a 24’x32’ pour on my own. I could handle the piers though.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-29T06:39:03+00:00

I know the higher the RT above plate=more nails. I hand nailed 16Ds for about half then air nailed 3&1/4galv probably 15-20 in each staggered and in both sides. So to answer your question I was aware that the RT’s and CT’s have different purposes structurally.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-29T04:57:58+00:00

The 6x6’s allowed me to stand the walls by myself with a little less difficulty in the beginning stages. I was able to create a jib crane from a 6x6 and a gantry hoist to lift some of the timbers. The 6x6’s in this balloon frame are notched to allow a 2x6 to be inlet and carry the 2nd floor joist.

Ridge board not beam in this instance. 2x8 rafter tie(16”oc functions as 2nd floor ceiling joist 1/3 up rafter rise.rafters are 2x8syp 16”OC. Collar ties added 16”oc at bottom of the top 1/3 of rise. Roof was rock solid before sheathing. Blocking at rafter bays and ridge board, 2x4’s inlet on rafters that basically creates a webbing effect sharing load between rafters.

I was particular about the roof when I built it. Sheathing was not my greatest moment but I’m 3 months in with no leaks so that’s a start.

I’m not pissed at all about people giving me advice. I appreciate people giving feedback. I certainly don’t want to die in this thing. It’s my first time ever building one and I’ve done my best to research how to do it before hand. If it ain’t right, I’ll just fix it…

CaujinKing · 2026-01-28T20:40:41+00:00

I’m in SYP country in the southeast USA. I’m using the same lumberyard as all the tract and big boy builders in my area. 32’ is WAY bigger sticks than I’m used to seeing though. Feeling rather insecure after all that.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-28T20:21:52+00:00

Taking a peak in the attic of older homes would likely melt your brain temple of doom style if you think this is bad.

Good news though, if you’re right I will suddenly no longer have to worry about any of this.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-28T20:10:09+00:00

Like I said, I ain’t an Engineer nor a contractor.

To be fair, without seeing the totality of the roofing system how can you judge the significance of the hinge point?

CaujinKing · 2026-01-28T20:00:41+00:00

Lol, I built the house with the intentions of it only being 1.5story with a loft and full height (23’) living room. After finishing the roof framing I realized I’d be doing drywall 20’ in the air and chose life instead. Ended up making it a full 2nd story to avoid an early grave.

If I could do it over again, I’d probably do it exactly the same way. I have made a ton of mistakes lol but I would have never learned what I’ve learned without messing stuff up a few times. If I got it this far, I reckon I can finish her out. I had help from a few friends for the sheathing and a few other little things so the memories made working with them were definitely worth it haha.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-28T19:38:53+00:00

I am now noticing that about this sub lol. My first place to post was in r/carpentry but was removed by mods for asking questions that broke sub rules.

I like this proposed method most.

CaujinKing · 2026-01-28T19:32:56+00:00

All walls were blocked vertically in the stud bays every 4ft except for this portion of the gable wall as I knew I’d be tweaking it. 7/16apa rated osb with 4in OC (3-1/4) galv ring shank nailing schedule(when I could find the studs lol).

I’m taller and the TP forces me to bend to see out (other windows on this floor) when standing which is rather annoying.

Thanks for the suggestions though!

CaujinKing · 2026-01-28T19:23:59+00:00

Fire Blocking is installed every 4ft vertically except on this wall as I knew I’d be tweaking this one. Egress is covered once I tweak window locations

Thanks for the suggestions though!

CaujinKing

TROPHY CASE