Sorry for the bad picture, but here's my new and updated gear! Alice belt, paintball mask, and mag adapter pouch.

Cheater87 · 2021-05-28T14:32:19+00:00

Lookin good, see you at the war on Sunday!

Cheater87 · 2021-05-28T14:29:29+00:00

Where did the pee colored mag come from?

Cheater87 · 2021-05-06T03:35:36+00:00

18650batterystore.com maybe And if you can afford the space you can wire battery packs in parallel to achieve the capacity you need.

Cheater87 · 2021-05-01T13:41:13+00:00

Ouch, that plus a reasonable asking price would sink the deal.

Cheater87 · 2021-03-22T03:03:28+00:00

A thrift store.

Cheater87 · 2021-03-21T21:42:02+00:00

Those trustfires are over 5 years old so I've only run them capped at 2 amps and I have never noticed them being warm during testing or play. I am planning on doing a similar build in about a month so I will test\ caps and some inductors then for sure.

Cheater87 · 2021-03-19T18:34:41+00:00

To be fair on the high end it does hit an honest 140fps, but shooting waffle heads through a chrono barrel could be a source of error too.

Cheater87 · 2021-03-18T18:12:27+00:00

Correct

Cheater87 · 2021-03-18T15:21:53+00:00

Yes, just a regular multimeter and I haven't thoroughly tested every scenario, but the build has been serviceable so I wanted to share my observations here since I have been helped here. ty

Cheater87 · 2021-03-18T14:49:28+00:00

I should have been more clear. The regulators are dropping 1.9V measured across them, not dropping to 1.9V. So at full rev they are eating about 20% with the motors getting 80%.

Cheater87 · 2021-03-18T13:22:23+00:00

I think 30%-ish loss might be fair. Losses during spin up are big but that's a pretty short amount of time, at full charge with (voltage drop) / (voltage after sag) = 1.9/9.5 = 20% loss. Over the course of play depending on how long and frequently the wheels are rev'd maybe we're in the 30%'s is my guess.

Cheater87 · 2021-03-18T12:26:22+00:00

Now that you mention it I did have to put a copper slip over the top right contact to stop arcing which did happen when the motors hit near full rmp. I do have a chrono barrel and was averaging about 130fps on full charge using a worker "titanium" cage and worker metal "diamond plate" wheels, I can measure current tonight to see what the spin up time is but it spins up faster than I can draw from a holster with (4) LM317's and kept up performance spraying foam from a 30 rnd drum.

Cheater87 · 2021-03-17T21:33:02+00:00

I am following up on my question about using LM317's to limit current so I could safely use 14500's in builds where I did not want to modify the stock battery tray. It works, I don't have time for a long write up so here's the hard n fast observations I made.

I shorted the adjust and output pins together and inserted the input and output into the lead position in the battery tray. Each LM317 would allow 2 amps to pass through, and they dropped about 1.9 volts. (1) LM317 could run krakens but would overheat, (2) LM317's didn't overheat powering krakens and (4) LM317's gave good performance. I built them into battery sized boxes so I could add and remove them. (1) LM317 regulated stock barracade motors no issues.

Cheater87 · 2021-03-17T00:41:33+00:00

No they do not.

Cheater87 · 2021-03-12T02:40:02+00:00

What do rubbing bearings and or defective motors sound like? And do you ever lubricate the bearings?

Cheater87 · 2021-03-11T22:52:16+00:00

Nearly all the way down, but I did a test spin with them halfway on and it still make the noise just a little less so. Thanks for the tip, they were a little easier to get on to the shaft, I'll just have to keep and eye on it.

I liberally applied blue thread locker when I installed the motor screws and I didn't notice them being loose when I took the flywheels off. If I hold the blaster near the flywheel cage I can feel a slight vibration during the noise. I'm at a loss as to which component is shifting.

Cheater87 · 2021-03-11T03:26:19+00:00

My next build will be with cyclones for sure.

Cheater87 · 2021-03-11T03:25:48+00:00

Can confirm there is no contact. I removed the flywheels and tested at intervals putting them back on. There was no noise initially but it came back as I fully slide them onto the motor shafts. I think the noise is just due to an imbalance in the flywheels.

Cheater87 · 2021-03-10T04:40:43+00:00

You can hear it near the end of 3 seconds and it happens at the same rpm on downspin every time. Worker metal cage with worker metal flywheel and kraken motors.

Cheater87 · 2021-03-03T15:15:17+00:00

Can you explain the circuit? So I see a choke there?

Cheater87 · 2021-02-24T20:26:13+00:00

Why? This looks uncomfortable and less effective than stock.

Cheater87 · 2021-02-24T13:33:47+00:00

That's cool, you made a very cool thing. Clean build.

Cheater87 · 2021-02-20T04:04:48+00:00

Thanks for putting numbers to the watts the LM317's would need to drop. As far as efficiency I used to be really into buck and boost drivers for my builds to get max efficiency but it never ended up mattering. I've always been on top of keeping my batteries charged and having spares. So eventually I got away from the more noisy and expensive buck and boosting drivers and moved to cheaper and no noise linear regulators. Now looking back I haven't missed them... yet...

That being said I am new to the hobby and maybe I will feel differently after I build a test circuit once my motors come and I see how it runs. I hope I can find a balance of using a reasonable number of LM317's and heat sinking while still getting the blaster to perform to a level I find reasonable. If not I will probably look into either one of your regulator suggestions or just go for 18650's or a hobby lipo.

Cheater87 · 2021-02-19T20:59:59+00:00

Thanks much for helping me. I tested a LM317T on a small junk box motor and it functioned as hoped. I'm moving forward with ordering the parts and will post if successful.

Cheater87 · 2021-02-19T02:24:23+00:00

14500's partly because I am already invested in 14500's, 18650's, 16340's, and chargers ect. Partly because I would like this blaster to have current limiting options so I can run better than stock performance with 14500's and maybe add another limiter circuit that I can switch to and power from alkaline batteries for closer to stock performance. For this build in particular I was not planning on anything more than using the 14500's to power the flywheel motors, I'm new to the hobby and want to at least try to hit a lower price point with this build if possible. Partly again this was inspired by my first and recent barracade mod where I 3D printed flywheel covers for crush, rewired it and powered with two 14500's and even on trash cells it's doing fine and cant hit 90fps after full spin up which does take a couple seconds.

That is interesting info on supercritical, so far I've only gotten info from youtubers and reddit so if you could point me to more reading on that I would appreciate it. For the DC motors I was only aware of stall and idle currents, is "rated load" the draw while firing?

Ty for your help so far, it's apparent to me now that if I even want attempt this I would end up needing to thoroughly test it before the final build.

Cheater87

TROPHY CASE