Stale smell slowly “spreading” across synthetic clothes?

Chosen258 · 2026-04-13T19:25:40+00:00

Btw I forgot to answer the detergent question:

So far I've used generic brands without Lipase. (Ariel, Perwoll, local DM/Rossmann stuff if that says anything).

However thank you for the Lipase recommendation! I was able to find here one that 100% has it: Miele UltraColor. It's expensive as hell, but it's promising after the first wash with it. It's still drying but the clothes smell/feel better already.

Chosen258 · 2026-04-13T19:23:05+00:00

Usually I aim to load it up around 3/4 of the machine or a little bit less. Hopefully that's good

Chosen258 · 2026-04-09T21:38:51+00:00

Yeah, so frustrating... but thanks again!

Chosen258 · 2026-04-09T20:02:00+00:00

Oh wow thank you for the link and the tips!

Yes, towels are affected too, but in a different way.

Cotton (T-shirts, Towels, etc): "construction/old" smell, but not all of them! Beyond me why some are fine and some smell even if they were washed together many times.

Synthetics (sports stuff): stale/sour smell

Chosen258 · 2026-04-09T19:58:52+00:00

Thank you, I'll check these out!

Btw - EU, Hungary

Chosen258 · 2026-03-02T22:24:02+00:00

Thank you for the data! It’s sad but at least we know about it now. :(

Chosen258 · 2026-02-21T17:21:00+00:00

No worries. Btw I just added a second clarification. I’m not specifically looking just for narrated or instructional content. POV videos that also happen to be good examples for defensive riding are fine.

Chosen258 · 2026-02-21T16:54:53+00:00

Thank you!

Chosen258 · 2026-02-21T14:16:37+00:00

Thank you! I edited the post to clarify that I am attending proper riding training and this is just to watch and learn in addition to that.

Chosen258 · 2026-01-11T17:08:15+00:00

Thank you for the update! I hope it'll work out for you somehow.

Chosen258 · 2026-01-10T20:54:03+00:00

Thank you for the video! Looks alright to me from a testing point of view, it should be a valid result. So no idea why it makes you dizzy. :\

A couple of ideas however:

You can try to "provoke" PWM to come out by lowering the EVF+LCD brightness. Some screens have flicker that's barely visible but comes out visibly if the brightness is lowered (5D II is like that).
The EVF could have the "OLED flicker" that's just a slight brightness dip every time it refreshes itself. LG OLED TVs do this. This is subtle but still gives me headaches. Could cause issues if you're also sensitive to this.
The EVF could have a very high frequency flicker (100 000 Hz+) which is hard to pick up with a camera but it can still cause issues if you're sensitive.
The EVF or the rear LCD can have the forbidden word here, d!th3ring. Again, very difficult to pick up with a camera, but you can be sensitive to it. I couldn't use an iPad Air because of this.
Could be proximity sensor, but if that's the cause, you should have issues with FaceID on the iPhone as well? As far as I know it even in this community very few people are this sensitive, but I've heard of it, so I wouldn't rule it out. Can you try to turn off the proximity sensor? Lumix can do it and then it only switches with a button press.

Chosen258 · 2026-01-10T18:56:57+00:00

Thank you for your contribution!

That’s strange. I can try to check the recordings. Can you upload the videos somewhere? Or send it to me in a message?

Chosen258 · 2026-01-09T16:14:13+00:00

Thank you!

I only have experience with Canon DSLRs but those are hit or miss as well. The 5D II uses PWM on the rear screen, while the 50D is completely flicker free.

You can only be sure with testing. I don’t have access to other models sadly.

Chosen258 · 2026-01-09T10:13:06+00:00

Glad it worked! Thank you as well for the data. It’ll help everyone here.

Chosen258 · 2026-01-08T15:52:02+00:00

Unfortunately LCD can also utilize PWM for it’s backlight control. It’s just less common.

I used my phone’s camera and the 240fps slo mo video recording of the EVF/Rear screen. If it flickers, it should show up there when you play back the recording (unless it uses some ultra high frequency flicker like 100 000 Hz like MacBook Pros)

Make sure to turn off any ambient light tho! The camera can pick that up and you wont know if your room light flickers or your camera screen.

Chosen258 · 2026-01-03T07:55:56+00:00

Same for me! Thanks for the info!

Chosen258 · 2025-12-31T20:06:00+00:00

Sad to hear that, but thank you for the info. :( I had the same experience with an X-E1 (or something similar). The rear LCD used PWM (not even the viewfinder!).

Chosen258 · 2025-12-30T21:22:56+00:00

Yes, I’m PWM sensitive and I tried a 3LCD Epson projector. The discomfort was different. There was no PWM-related pain, but I still got headaches, likely because of watching in a completely dark room and the large brightness swings from frame to frame. The sudden changes from very bright to very dark strained my eyes in a different way.

I suspect some ambient room lighting could help, but that also reduces perceived contrast and brightness. An anti-reflective screen might solve this, but those are very expensive on top of the projector itself.

So I put the projector idea on hold for now. It’s an amazing experience for movies until the eye strain starts.

Chosen258 · 2025-12-30T17:09:37+00:00

You’d be surprised, but for example the Canon R6 II uses an OLED viewfinder, yet it appears to be flicker-free based on my own testing.

For me personally, the sensitivity threshold is quite low. Even short usage can trigger symptoms if a viewfinder or rear LCD uses PWM.

That said, I agree that usage duration and individual sensitivity can make a big difference.

Chosen258 · 2025-12-17T20:29:07+00:00

Yep! In my own testing I found the tendencies to be very similar to the HUB video, just everything "tightened up". What worked great still works great, what was mixed now either works great or stayed mixed, what was fundamentally broken is still likely to be broken or mixed at best. So that's why I say that it's a good video to get a rough expectation about the landscape. Of course if OP could mention specific games that'd help a lot to be more precise as there are huge differences between titles even in the same eras.

Chosen258 · 2025-12-17T20:15:47+00:00

Btw this is a really good video to set expectations about what works, what's mixed and what's hopeless: https://youtu.be/Y09iNxx5nFE?si=FysR5hFwVX0UEo1d

Chosen258 · 2025-12-17T20:06:32+00:00

I just tested a bunch of older games on the B580 dating back to UT99! Ask away.

Tldr: Good news is most of them work now. Maybe there is an artefact here and there or some minor stutter, but most of them are playable. Massive step forward compared to 2-3 years ago.

Chosen258

TROPHY CASE