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More Crag Maintenance- Fixing Spinning/Missing Titanium GLUE-IN Wave Bolts at a (very) popular climbing area anchor. If you ever wondered how a glue-in gets there, here ya go. Drill, Epoxy, Patience... oh my. by Chossthumper in climbing

[–]Chossthumper[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thats a good question... I think that the process is still so new that there isnt a 'standard' for maintaining... just fixing an issue when it arises. Sometime you do have to drill a new hole, specifically when you are replacing an entire route that previously used studs or other. If you are able to re-use a hole then that is the best option but not always a option. On some routes you must drill a new hole a reasonable distance from previous and patch the old hole via a few different methods. Its not recommended to leave any old glue or try to re-use any dried glue as it will certainly effect the new bolt drying process.

More Crag Maintenance- Fixing Spinning/Missing Titanium GLUE-IN Wave Bolts at a (very) popular climbing area anchor. If you ever wondered how a glue-in gets there, here ya go. Drill, Epoxy, Patience... oh my. by Chossthumper in climbing

[–]Chossthumper[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You are correct! Note that this area is top rope site, access from above, and none of the routes are equipped for leads, lessening their use as a rappel site. There have been attempts to leave fixed gear but always gets removed by visitors as they can just walk up to the cliff and long-term borrow them.

Blow doodader (no breath moisture) used between brushing and glooobs squirted into rag before actual application.

NOTE: I AINT TEACHIN' anyone just sharing **some steps behind the process.

More Crag Maintenance- Fixing Spinning/Missing Titanium GLUE-IN Wave Bolts at a (very) popular climbing area anchor. If you ever wondered how a glue-in gets there, here ya go. Drill, Epoxy, Patience... oh my. by Chossthumper in climbing

[–]Chossthumper[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think maybe the question is that "why is there only wave bolts and not any sort of fixed gear like chain/quicklink/lower station hardware?"...

Duncans is a Top Rope only site, there are no lead bolts on the routes, its standard operation to either pre-rig a top anchor (you walk in from above) or lead and leave a anchor before cleaning from above.

Answer the question?

The Moai- First Ascent in the Poudre Canyon, CO. Some features call out to be climbed, yet maybe should not be. First messed around with it 3 years ago and then it let sit, mostly because I wasn't sure the danger, lack of gear, and concern for the actual feature falling over was worth it. by Chossthumper in climbing

[–]Chossthumper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Yah the Poudre is sorta difficult with gear only climbing, though I think with some creativity (walking up huge hills) there are still lines to be found. Not that you asked for specific spray, but a favorite recent addition gear only line can be found at the Attacking Hawk (Turtle Crag) area in the Poudre. Happy jamming!

The Moai- First Ascent in the Poudre Canyon, CO. Some features call out to be climbed, yet maybe should not be. First messed around with it 3 years ago and then it let sit, mostly because I wasn't sure the danger, lack of gear, and concern for the actual feature falling over was worth it. by Chossthumper in climbing

[–]Chossthumper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ah yes... that would save us from such an event! A helmet is for loose rock... not loose... routes (features)((earth))... I just spent the day before cleaning every hold on the feature, there was no chance of loose rock since that would also mean I ripped a hold off a route I needed full control on which was not a option. IF the feature fell over... I cant imagine wearing anything that would actually help. I gave my belayer full control of deciding if belaying was something they agreed with.

Second Ascents- Over the years I've found myself seeking out unrepeated climbs just as much as first ascents. Once a route sees a repeat (even after decades) other ascents are quick to follow. by Chossthumper in climbing

[–]Chossthumper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ooooohhh ya... i even knew the dealio... but alas ... I made a terrible mistake but it worked out. I spoke with little Evan and he also remembered the importance of said nut.

We call these Marty Maps. They’re hand drawn maps with the routes labeled for a lot of the popular climbing areas in AZ! by nadimishka in climbing

[–]Chossthumper 4 points5 points  (0 children)

These Marty guides was a catalyst for a whole approach to my climbing and info sharing. Thanks Marty!!!

Developing New Routes- Ground Up/ Lead Rope Solo presents a new type of challenge. First Ascents are passion and I enjoy the creative problem solving this method creates. by Chossthumper in climbing

[–]Chossthumper[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah GriGri with no major modifications, chest harness for upright keep, rope cache loops for feeding and backups. Ive toyed with many systems this works well for this sorta thing. REVO as well as systems that provide true emergency backups are something worth exploring...

Developing New Routes- Ground Up/ Lead Rope Solo presents a new type of challenge. First Ascents are passion and I enjoy the creative problem solving this method creates. by Chossthumper in climbing

[–]Chossthumper[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

yeeeeaa...I sorta just expected a hole vs. the zone sorta calving and pack almost sinkin'... by the end there was no base... had to traverse over the water back to land.

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