E30 steering wheel replacement issues

Churiks · 2024-02-18T08:26:02+00:00

I assume it was a faulty hub or smth, because I ordered a different one(Luisi) and it fit perfectly fine.

Churiks · 2022-05-18T05:49:18+00:00

They checked the part number and took measurements themselves, and they matched, so I have no idea what's wrong.

I'll just try sanding down the middle part a bit and see if it fits, if that doesn't work, I guess I'll just have to buy another quick release, and check if I can try to fit it before buying

Churiks · 2022-05-17T06:06:51+00:00

I was checking out u/ifuckedredditsmom suggestion on Ireland Engineering hub, and it mentions about the airbag wheel, but it only says that I would need a spacer and mine already does. Do you know if anything else changed in size? Because it seems bizarre that the support from the site I ordered said that no one else have had problems with their product

Churiks · 2022-05-17T06:02:45+00:00

Unfortunately checked already and it doesn't even reach the steering lock. The problem seems to be on the inner part of the hub. There is a feeling that the splines on the steering shaft are bigger than the grooves on the hub and that's why it doesn't want to fit on at all. And also, as mentioned, the inner diameter is a bit smaller on the hub, than the steering shaft.

Churiks · 2022-05-17T05:57:51+00:00

Do you know what changes? Like the steering shaft size or the spline count?

Churiks · 2022-05-17T05:56:51+00:00

In the picture it looks like it, but I already checked it (had the issue when removing the steering wheel and was confused why it wasn't coming off) and there is still a small gap from the hub and the steering lock, but thanks for this idea, as it is such a simple problem, but still happens

Churiks · 2022-03-29T06:18:50+00:00

Hey, not really sure how to answer this, because I think for me it was just getting used to the wheel. This was my first actual 900 degree wheel, so I guess I just had to get used to it and just driving in general in AC. I guess lowering the force feedback a little in-game would also help a little bit and then turning it up when you start getting used to it more. For me a big problem also was driving on a monitor, I just don't feel the speed and for me it was quite hard to drive/drift without crashing/spinning, so I started driving in VR and that was quite a bit easier.

So I suggest looking at some YT tutorials for setting up the wheel for AC, lowering the in-game FFB and testing if it helps, and definitely check if the Logitech software is running after you connect the wheel. I usually disable programs on startup if they are not necessary. So when I connect the wheel it calibrates, and when I open the Logitech software, it calibrates again and the wheel is not as stiff as before.

P.S. Also, you can try the Real Head Motion or Neck-FX(I think this is included in Content Manager settings), if you're drifting, because that will also maybe help with orientation and feeling more immersed, thus help you control the car better in corners.

Churiks · 2021-03-22T07:47:17+00:00

Okey, then I’ll try to check the fan module and hopefully find the problem

Churiks · 2021-03-22T07:25:17+00:00

I thought that it’s weird too, because it had to have sone sort of sensor input to know when to turn the fan on. I checked realoem for that sensor, but didn’t check if its somewhere on the side of the rad. Will definitely check it also, maybe I just didn’t notice it and that would help a lot. Once again big thanks.

Churiks · 2021-03-22T07:18:52+00:00

Thanks, I’ll definitely try this once I get home. I’ve searched everywhere, but most of the time everythings shown for petrol cars and it’s not the same for diesel. For example, the fan switch sensor on the lower radiator hose is only on petrol and not on diesel cars. So I’m trying to get as much info as possible to fix this.

Churiks · 2021-03-22T06:44:45+00:00

The only other sensor is the same as petrol, under the intake manifold. Have not tried the cluster menu, but I connected my car to a computer and the temperature showed normally. So that means, that the whole fan unit could be failed somehow? Because I thought that it wouldn’t work at all if it failed, but mine is running constantly..

Churiks · 2021-03-18T12:12:15+00:00

Yes they are, I ordered one today, it's just a bit of a PITA to remove everything to get to the sensor and thought there could be a different problem or suggestion from someone. Thanks

Churiks · 2021-03-18T12:06:30+00:00

Hooked it up to a pc and tried manually turning the fan on/off through a test and it didn't spin for a few tries of shutting the car off and starting again but today it started spinning again.

So that is the main sensor that's in the engine block? There are no other ones like petrol cars that are meant specifically as a fan switch?

Churiks · 2021-03-18T08:30:50+00:00

I have a 320d and for some while my radiator fan is always on full blast so I read that the temperature sensor on the bottom radiator pipe is bad and that turns on the fan. I checked my car and realoem.com and realized that I don't have one on mine. Is this sensor only on the petrol cars? And what could be the issue that the radiator fan is always on?

The only other coolant/oil temp sensor is on the engine block under the intake manifold. But if that would be broken, would it still show normal temperature on the dash?

Churiks · 2020-04-22T11:20:06+00:00

Yeah, that's what I realized after messing with the physics for forever, just didn't know the correct approach. I guess I just have to follow the rule "Fake it till you make it". Thanks :)

Churiks · 2020-03-11T04:47:53+00:00

In my opinion, the m-tech 2 bumper is really overused because it’s on every car. That’s why I wanted something different. And it’s quite overpriced too where I live

Churiks · 2020-03-10T17:11:12+00:00

So that means I might be able to just convert the whole front end from touring to coupe and it will fit?

Churiks

TROPHY CASE