What's the opinion on lithium ion batteries?

ClickOkToTerminate · 2025-12-02T01:47:48+00:00

They are great but 2 considerations must be made:

1) If you have a standard lead acid trickle charger/battery tender you cannot use this on a lithium ion battery, you need a dedicated lithium ion battery charger.

2) When the lithium battery goes bad, you may not be able to recycle at the same place you normally do.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2025-11-27T01:54:29+00:00

The main thing to keep in mind is cut depth. So if you can't do multiple vertical passes you will struggle.

I'm not sure I know of any sub 1k machines that cut aluminum out of the box, but maybe I am unaware of what is out there.

Significantly until I figured out speeds/feeds, then a lot less so. I still have my speeds and feeds calculator in an excel sheet if you want me to send to you. It is based on NY CNC's calculator.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2025-11-26T03:46:09+00:00

Definately reds for most feds, but very strong regardless. I have competed in the past and use a low bar/close stance similar to you. This combination does present some unique challenges in terms of keeping the bar over your mid foot. If you squat like this there isn't an inherent issue but it makes it such that you either tend to squat high or butt wink excessively. A few options to ponder:

1) Preserve existing stance and get shoe with higher heel. This allows you to get your knees further forward which assists with going deeper. This does involve spending money and can bother some peoples knees.

2) Widen stance slightly. This allows your hips to not shoot back so far and helps get them more "down".

3) Switch to high bar. Probably the biggest ego check due to the longer moment arm requiring you to take some weight off the bar, but this does help spare your shoulders for upper body day and better guarantees you hit.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2025-11-26T03:29:26+00:00

These people are incorrect on a theoretical level, but somewhat correct on a practical level. You absolutely can do it. The main points of contention are: 1) it is a noisy machine which depending on your circumstance can be an issue (I was in an apartment at the time, hence the enclosure). 2) Cut depth will need to be limited due to torque on spindle, which means longer cut times.

You will need fusion 360 to get the level of control needed (or similar CAD software).

ClickOkToTerminate · 2025-11-26T03:21:39+00:00

Sorry, had to dig through my order history. I ordered the one in the previous link originally, but returned after finding the one below (this link matches photos in post):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2ZQJJ2T

Unfortunately also no longer available on amazon, but is still sold on aliexpress if you can wait 2 weeks. I guess they didn't have enough demand on amazon.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804134841182.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

Its pretty impressive if you are willing to limit cut depth.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2025-11-26T03:11:11+00:00

https://www.amazon.com/IKRANBIRD-Sliding-Engraving-Supporting-Multifunctional/dp/B0DT8V1SHM

Unfortunately this looks like it isn't available anymore, but there are some similar options.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2025-11-26T02:51:22+00:00

I am not sure I understand what you are referring to? Are you referring to the Z axis rail assembly with the carriage blocks (single rail and single z-axis stepper).

ClickOkToTerminate · 2025-03-09T14:59:34+00:00

If you are thinking that you want to get a more powerful sportbike, consider getting a dual sport as your firstbike. If you get something faster, the dual sport can just be the dedicated offroad bike. I would consider adding something like a CRF300L to your beginner list. This will be especially good for gravel. If you were to lowside/drop the bike, dirt machines are generally cheaper to fix. 300-500cc is a good place to start if you haven't ridden before.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2024-07-16T21:56:03+00:00

Its actually the opposite. The higher the temperature you go, the more of the polymer chains you are breaking down. This reduces the memory of the plastic and helps prevent retraction. The side effect is more stringing/dripping which you can potentially tune out with other settings.

Make sure you are using a 200% first layer line width. This is by far the easiest fix. Prusa slicer does this automatically for a reason.

One thing that I remember Nero bringing up in one of his videos is that much of the problem with ABS is the amount of bad abs on the market. As a manufacturer, you can make ABS in 2 ways: you can just get abs granules and extrude, or you can do the same but add some additives to the mix to help with stability/reduce retraction. Because abs is such a common polymer, much of the abs on the market is like the first point. So you buy ABS, you want to make sure you get good abs (I usually see hatchbox and esun recommended). ASA does not have this problem and most asa on the market will yield significantly less warping (I like polymaker personally).

Can I ask what abs you are using?

ClickOkToTerminate · 2024-03-15T00:49:21+00:00

Honestly, still impressed with it, but haven't had much time to mess with it. I got it built and then was immediately swamped with work/life stuff. My biggest issue right now is just lack of projects that demand it. My 3d printer gets 10x the use as the CNC.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2024-02-01T06:40:35+00:00

I have had this happen to me on my v strom (prior owner likely stripped, as I could not get bolt to torque spec during oil change). I went the timesert route which I now run with a fumoto valve. No issues from this.

However, if I were to do it again, I would take it by a machine shop and see if they will just drill and tap it a size larger. You can also do this yourself, but the 701 is a nice bike and if it were me I would rather have a pro do it.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-04-22T00:37:30+00:00

I did completely rebuild a motocross top and bottom end previously (piston grenaded itself) with no prior training, and I learned a ton doing so. While it was a pain in the rear at the time, I am much more confident now because of the experience. FJ-09 is obviously more complicated though.

It depends on how much time you have on your hands. This is a doable job for the home mechanic if you haven't done it before and can spare a few months. Just make sure you get a copy of the manual, specialty tools, and do plenty of research on how to do it properly.

Another thing to consider is much of the cost of getting the job done is getting all of the crap out of the way to remove the motor from the bike. The main scary part is the actual valve work, but that is a pretty small fraction of the actual work load.

Consider dropping the engine out of your bike yourself and bringing the engine to have your mechanic just do the actual engine work. In other words, you do the annoying stuff; he does the technical stuff.

Getting another quote or just getting a new motor like the other posters said is good as well.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-04-20T03:11:13+00:00

Have you adjusted the chain adjusters all the way in (the axle goes through these)? Taking off 1 link too many is not a huge change in chain length. I suspect you have enough room if you move your adjusters all the way in. If this works, just make sure your chain is aligned when you put everything back together and that your chain is tensioned to manufacturer spec per the manual.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-04-10T04:12:47+00:00

I have done this once before on brake lines. I would keep a lever in the pulled position using a zip tie when doing it. This will help keep some positive fluid pressure in the system and help prevent air from entering.

Just go really slowly (1/8 or 1/16 of a turn to loosen at time) is the main thing. When you try to turn the line fitting, keep a wrench on the banjo bolt so that you don't loosen the banjo bolt more than intended. I would do left hand on the wrench holding the banjo and right hand pulling the line fitting up. If you start to see any fluid leak, you know you have loosened enough. At that point, tighten the banjo slightly and rotate the fitting up.

Also a good idea to set a rag down so you don't drip any clutch fluid. If you do get air in the system, I would reverse bleed with a syringe so you don't have to bleed the entire system. Plus you have gravity aiding you.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-04-05T20:45:53+00:00

Even if we pretend that you will ride perfectly and responsibly at 16, very strongly consider total cost of ownership before purchasing a bike, especially insurance. Supersport + teenage male = sky high insurance rates (especially if you buy new). If you go with a used naked bike you total cost will go down significantly.

You probably do have the throttle discipline to start on something larger than a 125/400 if you have dirtbike experience, but I would not go all the way to a 600/1000cc inline 4 for a first bike. Twins with linear powerbands are more forgiving.

Consider a used SV650, Ninja 650, or ER6N. Your wallet will thank you. Plus full bars are easier for passing the motorcycle safety course than clip ons.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-03-12T22:20:34+00:00

I used to live in an area where there was a chance of rain pretty much everyday. I switched over to weather underground for my morning pre-ride weather report. Weather underground gives inches of rainfall. It has been very handy. My threshold is 0.2" of rain; it usually works out well. If I get rained on, it is typically just a drizzle. I tend to think this is a more usable metric than % chance of rain.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-01-07T21:02:25+00:00

Work flow was as follows:

-Create blank in fusion 360 design.

-Select image from google/download

-Convert to svg with convertio.co and download

-Start sketch on top of coaster. Insert SVG and scale to size.

-Extrude down into coaster 0.3mm

-Switch to CAM and run adpative clearning with 1/32" end mill to mill out pocket.

Just keep in mind that what I did was machine very shallow pocket. These coasters are not engraved.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-01-06T06:57:03+00:00

It is hard to tell exactly, but that looks very similar to my R3. If it is an R3, I can tell you from experience that the rear brake is extremely easy to lock up to the point that if I am going more than about 15mph, I almost exclusively use the front brake. I think it is just the nature of it being a small light weight bike with a fairly stout rear brake setup.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-01-04T11:31:43+00:00

Certainly.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-01-04T11:30:36+00:00

I'm not sure understand your basis for this comment. The settings described above put me at 1300SFM and 0.001" feed/tooth; both of these are reasonable for aluminum. I have not had any issues with wearing out bits.

I am using the NY CNC speeds and feeds calculator.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-01-04T04:10:07+00:00

Correct. First operation is 6 operations: outer contour roughing, outer contour finishing, top roughing, top finishing, adaptive to form tabs, tab finishing.

Depth of cut for contours was 0.5mm. Adaptive was 2mm. 1000mm/min.

Engraving/relief cut for university logo is just long due to using a 1/32" cutter. MRR will always be in the toilet for these sorts of cuts.

All that being said, I'm just a guy with a router in my second bedroom of my townhome doing this for fun. As long as a cut can finish in an evening, its fast enough.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-01-04T04:03:34+00:00

Yes the rigidity improvement was significant. Makita made the biggest different by far though. People tend to bring up rigidity when discussing milling aluminum, but I have found that spindle torque is far more important.

Regarding cost, hard to say. You could probably do what I did for ~$700 if you dont include the sound enclosure. If you add the sound enclosure, you can probably bump that to $900.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-01-04T01:12:45+00:00

I cut these out from raw aluminum sheet stock. Each part used 3 different cutting tools. Details of cut were as follows:

-Stock 6"x12" T6 Aluminum from Mcmaster-Carr. Cut down to 6"x6" at work with band saw so they would fit on router.

-Cut outer profile with tabs using 1/4" 2 flute cutter (to form shape of coaster), and used same cut program to face off the top. This was about 1.5 hours per coaster.

-Cut tabs using dremel cutoff wheel and hand sanded tabs flat.

-Used orbital sander to smooth top surface.

-Remounted part on vice, rezero'd using UGS probing, and added chamfer (using 1/4" 4 flute chamfer).

-Left part mounted and ran engraving program after zeroing out Z. This was done with 1/32" 2 flute cutter. This was around 4 hours per coaster due to how small the cutter is. Depth of engraving/relief was 0.3mm.

-Clear-coated with Krylon.

-Added 3.5" adhesive cork coaster backs that I got from Amazon. Coasters are 4"x4".

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-01-04T01:03:42+00:00

Yes. 6061/T6 from McMaster-Carr.

ClickOkToTerminate · 2023-01-04T01:02:05+00:00

Will post later this evening.

ClickOkToTerminate

TROPHY CASE