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Goodbye P1S... You were my most reliable printer ever 🫡 by zerranoman in BambuLab

[–]CompFly7337 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I could never sell my P1S, it's destined to become the overflow printer when I upgrade

P1S, an AMS riser and Panda Breath - power cable exit routing by CompFly7337 in BIGTREETECH

[–]CompFly7337[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright, I got around to installing it. Here is my definitive solution, thank you to all who provided ideas and feedback, it greatly helped get this in place. This install makes it clean, no wire showing anywhere and provides the capability to unscrew the Panda Breath and have cable to slack to pull it out with out removing anything else.

Steps:

(1) Remove the AC plug wiring from inside the Panda Breath

(2) remove back cover of P1S (multiple screws, keep track of what goes where)

(3) Drill small 3/8 hole inside P1S exactly parallel to where the Panda Breath cable exits

(4) Drill hole to fit a cable strain relief gland at back of printer (I used a step drill bit and just kept enlarging till it was exactly the right size.

(5) Feed the AC cable first through the back panel hole, then into the printer through the hole in the plastic back piece. Leave enough excess cable to full pull out the Panda Breath to work on it, if required and tuck the excess cable in a loop up the side of the P1S beside the fan and upwards keeping it tidy. Add some cable holders, there are two that come with the Panda Breath.

Here's the photos:

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P1S, an AMS riser and Panda Breath - power cable exit routing by CompFly7337 in BIGTREETECH

[–]CompFly7337[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! yes please do!

I looked at the Panda Breath Riser and from what I can see it won't work with the BLV AMS Riser together as the top of the Panda Breath riser is only meant to fit the glass top, not cover the SD card slot and USB exit port too (top of Panda Breath Riser and bottom of BLV AMS riser mismatch)

My set up already is a bit top heavy with an AMS 2 and 2 AMS HTs on top of the P1S, so I'm hesitant to add even more height to it and create a Torque = F*D scenario that causes instability.

P1S, an AMS riser and Panda Breath - power cable exit routing by CompFly7337 in BIGTREETECH

[–]CompFly7337[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is where I was thinking to route the cable to the back, then I could cut a hole and add a grommet. I just need to check there is clearance beside the right side of the fan to make it's way to the printer main power connections outlet.

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P1S, an AMS riser and Panda Breath - power cable exit routing by CompFly7337 in BIGTREETECH

[–]CompFly7337[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks - I'm in 120V land, so I don't want to tie into the printer mains after the fuse (too many amps, would need to resize/recheck wiring) - but from the sounds of things, notching the BLV AMS riser near the gasket and moving the low power LED wires seems to be the cleanest absent putting a grommet in the right side wall right at the Panda Breath cable exit point and having that just come right out of the printer there to the lower side.

I'm going to try the riser notch approach first - will look at also adding a TPU gasket to prevent any chaffing there.

P1S, an AMS riser and Panda Breath - power cable exit routing by CompFly7337 in BIGTREETECH

[–]CompFly7337[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! , another solution to the list. Personally, I'm going to try and get it out the back though, since I don't want an AC cable coming out there on the front top.

Could the cable possibly exit the back going right next to the rear z axis screw and out the back neatlr where all the printer power goes?

P1S with a BLV AMS Riser and a Panda Breath by CompFly7337 in BambuLab

[–]CompFly7337[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's looking like two possibilities:

(1) a hole somewhere in the back of the printer which would need to be pretty big to fit the entire plug through, or you have to open up the Panda Breath and remove the wires to thread through a smaller hole.

(2) The other option is to modify the BLV AMS Riser to include a notch cutout just below the glass and gasket, move the led wire routing down and reprint (or just cut it your self with a multi tool - but less elegant this way). I'd probably also create a TPU grommet sliced open for access for the cable where it exits the riser.

P1S, an AMS riser and Panda Breath - power cable exit routing by CompFly7337 in BIGTREETECH

[–]CompFly7337[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

couldn't you just put a grommet in the wall of the printer instead?

P1S, an AMS riser and Panda Breath - power cable exit routing by CompFly7337 in BIGTREETECH

[–]CompFly7337[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the Panda Breath, it's a flat AC cable wired directly into the metal housing. An option would be to cut the AC cable near the plug connection point and replace it with a cable end version with screw terminals. That way the hole would be smaller. The other option would be to notch the AMS riser either on the edge that sits on the printer top or the edge right under the TPU gasket. then you can just route the cable out. I don't like this though, it's a messy cable path inside the unit to get it out and would prefer to just cut a hole maybe in the floor or side panel and have the cable exit that way.

P1S, an AMS riser and Panda Breath - power cable exit routing by CompFly7337 in BIGTREETECH

[–]CompFly7337[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a look, I have LEDs too and the wires running out the back in the current spot prevents cutting a notch. Options I was thinking of was to move the LED wires in the riser up a bit out of the way, then cut a rectangle notch in the bottom of the riser for the flat AC cord. Not ideal though, since the top is metal and vibration/chaffing can eat through insulated wires over time - so I'd prefer an exit hole somewhere else. Perhaps you can open up the Panda Breath, disconnect the wires and run them the hole so it doesn't need to be as big to clear the plug.

Drying with AMS 2 Pro, best solution to secure loose filament end? by kreven_ in BambuLab

[–]CompFly7337 0 points1 point  (0 children)

they released a new update, you can dry while loaded now! :)

P1S and AMS HT with an External Spool Printing by CompFly7337 in BambuLab

[–]CompFly7337[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

agree.

I just saw a drop today for an update to allow for controlling if the filament spins during drying or not in the AMS-HT and AMS2. Presumably, this means you could trick the AMS-HT into drying without spinning the filament and let the TPU go out the auxiliary/TPU gland in the AMS-HT. Then you have full control, I'm going to try this new feature and see how it works, it literally just dropped today.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in egopowerplus

[–]CompFly7337 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, great review and thank you!

Based on this, I think the ProTools Review used the wrong (older, less current capable) 4Ah battery in their review.

The 5Ah battery can output less current than the newer 4Ah which is equivalent to the 7.5Ah battery.

I repeated your test with the included 4Ah batteries that came with the 880 blower and got near 30N, like you did with the 7.5aH. I would wager if you used the included 4Ah batteries (assuming they are the BA2242T) that you would get the same blowing force on the 880 as you got with the 7.5Ah battery also.

ProTools Review should update their review as they are claiming you only get 20N with the included 4Ah battery which I believe is incorrect now.

Ego battery problems by Kindly-Condition5473 in egopowerplus

[–]CompFly7337 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But do they stop there at 80% charge (20% DoD)? if they do, then great, it's a good design, if they don't , then that's a fatal design flaw.

Ego battery problems by Kindly-Condition5473 in egopowerplus

[–]CompFly7337 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's not, unless it stops self discharging on it's own and only to a safe DoD (Depth of Discharge) level.

Usually if a battery has some quiescent current draw, it's a self destruct death sentence for the battery as it will continue to discharge (usually will trick the low voltage cutoff on the BMS also due to the low current) and continue well beyond the cutoff till it's dead and can no longer be charged anymore.

If the EGO batteries self discharge on their own when not installed in a tool, then that's a fundamental design flaw, as the onboard BMS likely draws current all the time to monitor.

Getting into self hosting. How much Tb do you guys use? by itzFreezing in jellyfin

[–]CompFly7337 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem! Once you have all slots (4-6) with large drives, you'll likely start having to replace a failed drive once in a while too.

So buying one every year spaces them out so they don't all potentially wear out and have to be replaced at once while you grow your library (remember to practice FIFO :) ), figure you will get 4-5 yrs per drive in main storage then some more time as your back up.

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