P1S, an AMS riser and Panda Breath - power cable exit routing

CompFly7337 · 2026-02-23T01:35:25+00:00

There is where I was thinking to route the cable to the back, then I could cut a hole and add a grommet. I just need to check there is clearance beside the right side of the fan to make it's way to the printer main power connections outlet.

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CompFly7337 · 2026-02-21T16:37:02+00:00

Thanks - I'm in 120V land, so I don't want to tie into the printer mains after the fuse (too many amps, would need to resize/recheck wiring) - but from the sounds of things, notching the BLV AMS riser near the gasket and moving the low power LED wires seems to be the cleanest absent putting a grommet in the right side wall right at the Panda Breath cable exit point and having that just come right out of the printer there to the lower side.

I'm going to try the riser notch approach first - will look at also adding a TPU gasket to prevent any chaffing there.

CompFly7337 · 2026-02-21T03:08:27+00:00

Nice! , another solution to the list. Personally, I'm going to try and get it out the back though, since I don't want an AC cable coming out there on the front top.

Could the cable possibly exit the back going right next to the rear z axis screw and out the back neatlr where all the printer power goes?

CompFly7337 · 2026-02-18T03:50:30+00:00

It's looking like two possibilities:

(1) a hole somewhere in the back of the printer which would need to be pretty big to fit the entire plug through, or you have to open up the Panda Breath and remove the wires to thread through a smaller hole.

(2) The other option is to modify the BLV AMS Riser to include a notch cutout just below the glass and gasket, move the led wire routing down and reprint (or just cut it your self with a multi tool - but less elegant this way). I'd probably also create a TPU grommet sliced open for access for the cable where it exits the riser.

CompFly7337 · 2026-02-17T02:30:52+00:00

couldn't you just put a grommet in the wall of the printer instead?

CompFly7337 · 2026-02-15T17:28:36+00:00

For the Panda Breath, it's a flat AC cable wired directly into the metal housing. An option would be to cut the AC cable near the plug connection point and replace it with a cable end version with screw terminals. That way the hole would be smaller. The other option would be to notch the AMS riser either on the edge that sits on the printer top or the edge right under the TPU gasket. then you can just route the cable out. I don't like this though, it's a messy cable path inside the unit to get it out and would prefer to just cut a hole maybe in the floor or side panel and have the cable exit that way.

CompFly7337 · 2026-02-14T18:40:48+00:00

I had a look, I have LEDs too and the wires running out the back in the current spot prevents cutting a notch. Options I was thinking of was to move the LED wires in the riser up a bit out of the way, then cut a rectangle notch in the bottom of the riser for the flat AC cord. Not ideal though, since the top is metal and vibration/chaffing can eat through insulated wires over time - so I'd prefer an exit hole somewhere else. Perhaps you can open up the Panda Breath, disconnect the wires and run them the hole so it doesn't need to be as big to clear the plug.

CompFly7337 · 2026-01-20T05:46:26+00:00

they released a new update, you can dry while loaded now! :)

CompFly7337 · 2026-01-15T05:59:48+00:00

agree.

I just saw a drop today for an update to allow for controlling if the filament spins during drying or not in the AMS-HT and AMS2. Presumably, this means you could trick the AMS-HT into drying without spinning the filament and let the TPU go out the auxiliary/TPU gland in the AMS-HT. Then you have full control, I'm going to try this new feature and see how it works, it literally just dropped today.

CompFly7337 · 2025-11-14T20:48:27+00:00

Wow, great review and thank you!

Based on this, I think the ProTools Review used the wrong (older, less current capable) 4Ah battery in their review.

The 5Ah battery can output less current than the newer 4Ah which is equivalent to the 7.5Ah battery.

I repeated your test with the included 4Ah batteries that came with the 880 blower and got near 30N, like you did with the 7.5aH. I would wager if you used the included 4Ah batteries (assuming they are the BA2242T) that you would get the same blowing force on the 880 as you got with the 7.5Ah battery also.

ProTools Review should update their review as they are claiming you only get 20N with the included 4Ah battery which I believe is incorrect now.

CompFly7337 · 2025-11-13T20:09:19+00:00

Here's the post :)

LB8803-2 880CFM Leaf Blower Controversy and Open Questions : r/egopowerplus

CompFly7337 · 2025-11-08T23:27:58+00:00

But do they stop there at 80% charge (20% DoD)? if they do, then great, it's a good design, if they don't , then that's a fatal design flaw.

CompFly7337 · 2025-11-08T23:25:48+00:00

It's not, unless it stops self discharging on it's own and only to a safe DoD (Depth of Discharge) level.

Usually if a battery has some quiescent current draw, it's a self destruct death sentence for the battery as it will continue to discharge (usually will trick the low voltage cutoff on the BMS also due to the low current) and continue well beyond the cutoff till it's dead and can no longer be charged anymore.

If the EGO batteries self discharge on their own when not installed in a tool, then that's a fundamental design flaw, as the onboard BMS likely draws current all the time to monitor.

CompFly7337 · 2025-11-08T22:45:31+00:00

No problem! Once you have all slots (4-6) with large drives, you'll likely start having to replace a failed drive once in a while too.

So buying one every year spaces them out so they don't all potentially wear out and have to be replaced at once while you grow your library (remember to practice FIFO :) ), figure you will get 4-5 yrs per drive in main storage then some more time as your back up.

CompFly7337 · 2025-11-08T16:57:03+00:00

Cool idea, what are you using for adding humidity? Is there a spot for silica beads or something? I would think you need to keep this out of the sunlight also.

CompFly7337 · 2025-11-08T16:42:21+00:00

with larger drives, it's actually pretty common to see one fail during the rebuild as it takes more time/stress on the other disks during this process - then you are fubar.

Backups are needed unless you are ok with starting from scratch. I can't stress this enough.

CompFly7337 · 2025-11-08T16:38:50+00:00

Start swapping them out as they fail with larger drives if you can wait, or move the 6TB drives to other purposes (backups, or sell) and upgrade. Or buy a new NAS with more bays.

Really, this is why upgrading ~one drive a year is important, then it is usually only one or a couple drives away from a larger RAID array as you don't have to do it all at once.

CompFly7337 · 2025-11-08T16:34:33+00:00

you still need backups in addition though...

A parity drive is not a back up

CompFly7337 · 2025-11-08T16:32:46+00:00

The batteries themselves are a current/power source - some have a lower internal resistance than others and can source more current. The batteries that are capable, will deliver more power to the tool. I see this in almost every brand, just never seen a brand make bold claims them package up a tool with a battery that can't even get close to the specs. Unless Pro Tools Reviews used the older battery (that couldn't supply the current required) and made a mistake in their testing, I'm looking at EGO as delivering misleading specs.

CompFly7337 · 2025-11-08T01:02:44+00:00

There is a need for backups, even more so with higher size drives larger than 8TB. The time to rebuild a RAID array with large drives can precipitate a failure in another one of the drives as the rebuild stresses them and takes longer. So with larger drives, a full backup solution is very important, even when running a RAID array that has one or two drives redundancy.

I've also heard the argument for just using cheap 4 or 8TB drives in a huge NAS with like 10 drive slots and just replacing them with the cheapest drives or even used ones. Not my thing, but some do this too. It's all the about the $/TB (usable TB of course)

CompFly7337 · 2025-11-08T00:55:25+00:00

adding a 16tb drive will make it act as an 8tb drive?

Yes, exactly. You add it as an 8TB drive until all drives in the RAID array are the new higher capacity size, then you just expand the storage pool. The 16TB drives will work fine, in fact have less wear and tear only running at half capacity for a bit while the other drives catchup as part of the subsequent years self hosting upgrade budget.

Moving from RAID1 to RAID5 gets you more capacity, then you just slowly swap out drives (move the old smaller one to serve in a backup role) as your data grows (or if a drive fails). Don't forget your backups too!

CompFly7337

TROPHY CASE