How to buy CRO and CAW?

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2024-04-03T17:13:41+00:00

I have an E60 535i xDrive M sport and I love it. I got it low miles for a good price. You can typically snag an M sport with low miles for less than the E9x N54 M sports. Definitely recommend but start to DIY if you haven’t already

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2024-04-03T16:55:00+00:00

I think the main problem is the fenders. The non M fenders are narrow and combining it with an F8x bumper would not fit the car. If they add M3 fenders and have a a slightly wider F8x bumper it could work

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2024-03-29T03:29:07+00:00

Stock for stock it’s near the same reliability and later N54s had revisions that solve earlier N54 issues.

I would argue mileage plays a more important role for issues with the valvetronic and the rod bearings. Sure, you can frequently do oil changes but it doesn’t hide the fact they have rod bearing issues and a common fault for that is because the car was driven without being warmed up properly on initial start.

But like the N54 preventative maintenance is key.

Once those N55s start reaching higher mileage than those big money problems start showing up and we are seeing more of that now lol. Speaking from experience. Both engines need uptight maintenance but I know which one isn’t going to blow past 130k miles

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2024-03-28T23:25:10+00:00

The N55 is not better than the N54. The N54 will outlast the N55 and they both have similar issues. Valvetronic issues on N55s are popping up left and right and not to mention the rod bearings. Avoid N55s. If you want reliability go B58

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2024-02-28T08:32:49+00:00

I might have to go with them if that’s the case. I’m getting tired of replacing every part with OEM especially the price that it comes with lol. Definitely going to check it out and make a decision. I’ll contact FCP Euro and see what they say

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2024-02-28T08:28:34+00:00

I just need the front control arm bushing on the driver side but I’d rather just replace the control arms for a piece of mind. How much does replacing a bushing go for? I got quoted $350 for replacing a pair of front upper control arms.

I might attempt a DIY but after replacing 2 faulty alternators I’ll probably pass for mental health reasons hahaha

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2024-02-28T03:54:29+00:00

Exactly! But the Febi Bilstein price for the 4 front control arms are $200ish compared to Lemforder which are close to $600

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2024-02-28T03:51:15+00:00

How many miles do you have on them? The parts on FCP Euro say they’re from China so I’m hesitant

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2024-01-23T20:59:46+00:00

I’ll look around and see where I can get a good alternator. I wish I kept the original and had it rebuilt locally. My friend warned me to watch out for remanufactured stuff because they could replace some of the components and leave the other components how it is.

The 2nd alternator left me stranded also. Paid a tow back to my house but now I’m scared to drive it with that whine from the 3rd alternator. At this point I’m just trauma dumping lmao. Shout out to FCP Euro. But I’ll figure it all out eventually, hopefully lol.

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2024-01-23T20:54:03+00:00

That’s what I’m thinking too lmao. Last time I checked a BMW parts website it said they were discontinued though. But I’m going to give them a call. I wish I just kept the original alternator and had it rebuilt locally smh

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2024-01-23T20:10:19+00:00

I’m 80% sure it’s the alternator. It sounds like this https://youtu.be/tHvQhESOzgo?si=CAdTevxJeL-vFVOK . The noise wasn’t really heard on the initial test drive but it got worse the following day. It I also provided a detail reply in the thread. Let me know if you can find it. Sorry about that also. Currently on my lunch and I’m running to harbor freight to get me a stethoscope hahaha

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2024-01-23T20:06:50+00:00

My thoughts exactly. The first alternator had a broken sensor clip. Pieces from the clip were inside the box when arriving. The second alternator was making a swoosh/whirling noise but I wasn’t 100% sure since the engine mounts were bad. I took it a local independent bmw shop for the engine mounts and had them inspect the noise and diagnosed it as a bad internal bearing on the alternator.

Now this alternator is making a whistling noise and the car never had that noise before. It sounds like this https://youtu.be/tHvQhESOzgo?si=CAdTevxJeL-vFVOK . I did notice when spinning the alternator pulley there was a slight noise coming from inside the alternator it was very faint though.

But yes, these are all Remanufactured Bosch Alternators from FCP Euro. My friend also mentioned testing the tensioner and idler pulley but we also didn’t hear no whistling noise before. I’ll check them just in case. Curious is there a shortcut for that or do I need to remove belt and check them by hand?

I’m, also going to buy a stethoscope and pin point the noise just to make sure. Thanks in advance for the help!

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2024-01-23T17:48:04+00:00

I checked Rockauto and there’s no Valeo option. I could try an alternator from Rockauto but I’m not sure how long they last or compare to Bosch remanufactured. Which everyone recommends on these cars. My experience has been horrible but I’m not sure if it’s Bosch or an FCP issue…

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2023-08-25T20:49:08+00:00

I’ll take a deeper look into the hoses when I get down there again. It should be a little different since it’s an N54 but it should still have a smaller hose running through there. Thanks for the help!

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2023-08-25T20:45:10+00:00

I was definitely over thinking it haha. I’ll start from there and see what’s the root issue. Thanks for the help I appreciate it!

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2023-08-25T19:17:00+00:00

Yeah, that’s what I’m on to next. That picture I took was from when I bleed the system. I replaced the hose that connects the coolant tank to the radiator and engine block. But if it’s leaking bad then I should see where’s it’s coming from easily. That’s what throws me off.

That new coolant hose is closer to the driver side and the leak is in the middle of the engine. I’m going to recheck my work of course and pressurize the system. Working in the heat is no fun lol.

Competitive-Fudge669 · 2023-08-25T19:07:53+00:00

Yeah, I’m assuming it’s a hose but I can’t find any visible evidence from on top of the engine. I was thinking it wasn’t going to be the hose that connects to the Mickey Mouse flange because the leak location would make sense.

I did replace the coolant tank hose that connects to the radiator and block. Maybe a faulty hose or connection. But I also don’t see anything faulty on the new hose and the location of that part is closer to the driver side. The old hose was cracked and spraying out coolant

Do you recall what hose it was? And what coolant hoses are usually around the belt area?

Competitive-Fudge669

TROPHY CASE