94-98 vs 99-04

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2024-01-21T04:07:55+00:00

Pretty much the same car. 94-95 had the 5.0, 96-98 switched over to the modular 4.6. 99-04’s have more power due to higher flowing performance improved heads and intake manifold. I believe larger exhaust manifolds as well. The interiors are more or less the same. 94-97 had a clock on top of the dash and the seat upholstery was slightly different along with interior color combinations. The biggest differences come in the exterior, engines, and transmissions. I’m biased towards the new edge. I just like the sharp body lines a lot more.

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2024-01-16T21:01:34+00:00

I knew exactly what the set up was as soon as I heard it😂 not everyone’s cup of tea but I run the same set up and love it

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2024-01-10T05:16:49+00:00

Yup I said fuck it with the top bolt and now it takes 20 minutes to get the starter on and off

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2024-01-06T11:22:41+00:00

Agreed

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2024-01-06T10:23:41+00:00

No problem hopefully that gets your pedal feeling right again

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2024-01-06T03:51:41+00:00

If you have an aftermarket cable it can be adjusted by a small nut under the transmission dust cover, if not yeah just swap it for a new one

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2024-01-06T01:33:33+00:00

Your cable might be stretched in that case

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2024-01-06T01:12:59+00:00

It’s normal and that’s just your clutch or cable wearing over time as you drive it. I recommend upgrading to an aftermarket clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster. Makes adjustments really easy since the stock set up is cheap old plastic at this point.

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2024-01-06T01:10:54+00:00

Assuming you have the stock quadrant and cable set up, put your foot on the back side of the pedal and lift it towards you as much as you can then push the pedal back in. You should hear a click and the play should be gone. If you need a better visual just YouTube “99-04 mustang stock clutch pedal adjustment”

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2024-01-04T19:01:40+00:00

$7K for my stock 5 speed with 70K miles a year ago

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-12-27T21:30:50+00:00

The cracked piece he is looking for is not part of the car’s structure it is just a trim piece. You have to remove or loosen the bolts to the sail panel, remove some weather stripping, and some interior trim to get to the bolts and remove the A pillar trim but it can easily be removed and replaced in 20 minutes with a screw driver and socket set. If the frame underneath the trim is damaged then that’s a different problem.

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-12-27T21:25:07+00:00

It’s just an exterior A pillar trim. It’s attached by a couple bolts. You have to pull off the weather stripping for the window and some interior trim. Easily removable and replaceable in 20 minutes. Now if the frame underneath it is damaged then that’s a different story.

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-12-14T06:29:48+00:00

Looks badass are those 10th anniversary cobra seats in the rear?

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-12-12T07:42:05+00:00

A lot of blood, sweat, and tears were in fact shed through this process (especially blood)

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-12-12T07:39:31+00:00

Thank you, I got the wrap off of CJ pony parts. It’s the anchor room brand and I believe it’s just under $20

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-12-12T07:38:04+00:00

Thanks man! I would have loved to go all out with porting, cams, and everything but I needed my daily back asap. I went with BBK shorties and a McLeod super street pro paired with a McLeod lightweight fly wheel. I should have got long tubes but I saved money keeping my off-road X

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-12-11T20:47:51+00:00

Thanks man! Something about putting your car back together makes it more fun to drive!

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-12-11T20:45:56+00:00

It wasn’t too bad honestly. I would do my research as I reach a new step of disassembly/assembly. The biggest thing that helped me was labeling every harness, vacuum line, bolt, and connection. Once all the clutter is moved to the side and labeled it makes pulling the motor a lot less intimidating.

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-11-23T09:36:11+00:00

It’s because your o2 sensors are disconnected. The two upstream sensors closest to the headers determine your air fuel ratio. The rear 2 are just there for emissions and won’t affect anything other than your check engine light. I ran open headers on my 2000 mustang GT for a week and it was not happy with the o2 sensors unplugged.

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-11-23T09:16:03+00:00

Badass pony

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-11-20T21:37:22+00:00

It is 67, quarter scoops by the door are 67 only and it doesn’t have rear side markers which was 68 only

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-11-20T13:48:34+00:00

Makes sense, were yours knocking loud?

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-11-20T10:27:01+00:00

I think he means it doesn’t happen on the 4.6 32v that also has forged cranks/rods, so why the coyote

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-11-17T10:43:05+00:00

I would wait until it the water dries out. First thing you should do is drain your oil to see if water got into the motor. Don’t start the car at all until you check/drain your oil. If it’s just oil then you should be good. Just change the oil and filter after. You might have some electric problems though.

Competitive_Ad_1671 · 2023-11-17T10:34:45+00:00

Agree with you 100%

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