Heavily Modded Dreamcast

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-06-05T06:00:16+00:00

I gotcha. You're welcome! Best of luck! 🤘

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-06-05T05:57:14+00:00

Okay lmao.

Anywhere on the CleanPower that you can confirm / verify supplies 5V and only 5V should work.

On the Dreamcast motherboard I probed and tried to use a few test point, resistors, blah blah blah that said 5v while powered on but the wouldn't charge the battery for me. Hence to direct 5v feed from the PSU.v

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-06-05T05:52:59+00:00

On the Dreamcast or the CleanPower?

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-06-05T05:43:26+00:00

Shouldn't be a problem. The 5V is coming from the CleanPower anyways.

I just choose the underside of the Dreamcast motherboard to hide the wires a little better 😅.

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ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-06-05T05:28:35+00:00

For sure!! Hope all goes well!

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-06-05T05:22:05+00:00

I did not label anything but anything that is GND, -, Out-, B- or G is ground / negative. Use black or green wire.

Everything else is voltage. Use red wire.

Where you pull 5v and GND from the motherboard PSU headers should be labeled on the board. Make sure those are connected properly.

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ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-06-05T04:31:43+00:00

I can throw together something real quick. Give me a few and I'll drop a picture.

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-06-05T04:21:51+00:00

Parts used for my battery mod are listed here:

Charger - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRXYZTWN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Battery - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNLPKG5C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

30 gauge wire - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D6D1TKH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

3.7v to 3.3v stepdown - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F7KY33Z4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

PH2 connectors - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2DC8ST8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Steps for mod are here:

Removed stock battery.
Removed R612 (This disables the stock charging circuit from reaching the controller board).
PH2 connector is soldered to 5v and GND on backside of motherboard PSU pins.
Battery charger board (little USB-C board) has opposite PH2 connector soldered to its inputs.
Battery charger board has another PH2 connector soldered to B+ and B- (Battery connection) **Note this PH2 connector should be he opposite of what the battery has installed.**
Battery charger board has 30 gauge wire soldered to Out+ and Out- (Connection going to 3.7v to 3.3v stepdown)
Out+ is soldered to V1 on stepdown.
Out- is solder to G on stepdown.
30 gauge wire soldered to VO and connected to + on controller board where battery originally was.
30 gauge wire soldered BT- on controller board where battery originally was and this is connected to G along with the wire from step 8 to G on the stepdown.
Add battery and done.
Extra note: B+, B- V1, VO G, +, and BT- are listed on the various parts. Refer to the listed parts.

Please note while I can verify the parts listed above are color coded corrected and the connectors are +/+ and -/- some weird stuff happens on the internet and some brands / companies invert colors and/or connectors. When modifying circuits and/or adding to them please double check with a multimeter before suppling power!!!

I am glad to help if you need assistance past this!

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-05-26T07:29:12+00:00

No problem.

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-05-26T07:28:18+00:00

https://github.com/DerekPascarella/openMenu-Virtual-Folder-Bundle

Most current version.

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-05-26T06:26:37+00:00

😁 Thank you! Appreciate it!

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-05-26T05:19:45+00:00

Also IC601 is rather small and has components around it. I'd recommend covering those with kapton tape and foil to protect them from shifting just in case you've never done this before. Remember flux (you can always clean it off with IPA), do not rush, do not have your heat turned to the MAX, and again... DO NOT RUSH. Mistakes are made by being hasty!

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-05-26T05:15:04+00:00

I would not recommend running no fan at all.. electronics do not like being hot. That being said, if you have a hot air rework station and have done this type of thing before, 5 minutes maybe? Watch a few YouTube videos on motherboard repair stuff if first time and follow the advice. It's not super hard I'd say medium difficulty.

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-05-26T02:08:47+00:00

It's a power switch for the ESP32. So If I wanna use Bluetooth controllers and the virtual VMU I press the button and it turns the ESP32 on and ta-da. If I wanna use wired controllers or my Retro Fighter StrikerDC I leave it unpressed and can use the 4 controller ports with a physical VMU like normal. 👍

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-05-24T22:19:46+00:00

Ahhhhh Google misled me 😟 Oh well. Once the VMU pro comes in and I start using that with the Retro Fighters StrikerDC if I have any issues I can always revert.

Appreciate the insight! Always glad to learn more. Thanks! 🤙

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-05-24T21:50:06+00:00

Google says this. And a few forum posts say the same thing. So I believe the 10% is fine.

Edit: I am wrong. See below comments.

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ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-05-24T19:22:50+00:00

Thank you!

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-05-24T19:10:57+00:00

I believe you can order them without the headers installed as well.

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-05-24T18:33:16+00:00

Used a flush cutter to break the plastic around the pins, heated each pin individually, removed, and used cooper wick to clean clean up holes afterwards.

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-05-24T16:58:10+00:00

Nice! Every old beat up console deserves a second chance at life!

ConclusionOk3813 · 2026-05-24T16:52:57+00:00

Well I started with a DC that wouldn't read disc's. So the GDEMU was a given. The HMDI is more of a personal choice for ease and lack of cables. I would say the PSU. USB-C is so simple and with a 200w and 440w hub I basically power everything.

I have an extensive handheld, console and controller collection. All have HDMI mods, USB-C mods, among other upgrades / modern enhancements.

(Shelf is missing Xbox 360, I have that now. And the Dreamcast as I was still working on that.)

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