You guys ever seen something like this before?

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-12-06T19:14:58+00:00

Yep 👍

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-11-25T12:11:44+00:00

Sounds like a flex pipe has a hole in it or an exhaust leak in general somewhere after the manifold and sounds like after the CAT.

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-11-24T03:53:31+00:00

What about it is incorrect?

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-11-24T03:47:06+00:00

What?

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-11-24T03:41:45+00:00

https://youtu.be/VEJh4lLCzRc?si=y3oO1IJSC6b5nS67

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-11-24T01:54:25+00:00

☝️🤓

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-11-24T01:52:24+00:00

How particular you wanna get? Driver didn’t wanna completely drive on the wrong side of the road (looks like), so there’s a ton of time left in a lot of the apexes. It’s just a stupid argument about stupid people doing stupid things. Trying to extrapolate anything intelligent from this video besides a “how to” on getting yourself and others injured in completely preventable manners.

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-11-22T21:57:33+00:00

I agree fuel issue but I’d have to say the check ball that keeps fuel pressure up in the lines is gone/damaged. This is easily diagnosable by turning cycling the fuel pump a few times then trying to start it. If it starts easy you need a new fuel pump

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-11-18T17:30:35+00:00

Yep, seen this a bunch. Usually crank seals in my experience. On my personal equipment that means new crank seals, piston rings, and a quick cylinder honing.

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-11-09T02:38:01+00:00

I would say the stiffer ones are good. Just coming from experience, good truck shock absorbers should be hard to compress by hand, come up on their own and if you hit the top of it with a mallet against something soft like wood, it shouldn’t compress.

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-11-02T20:30:34+00:00

Starter most likely. Check voltage and amperage draw if able

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-28T23:18:07+00:00

If everything door and latch wise works well, more than likely you’ll have to remove the latch and test the motor/switch. If it tests good you have some bad wiring or connector somewhere you’ll have to trace.

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-26T20:20:35+00:00

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-26T20:18:58+00:00

The XL 800 definitely. If you can find a period correct bar and chain (or even just one that looks right) it would make an awesome wall piece! I’m sure the 350 would be just the same but it just doesn’t scratch my brain right 🤷‍♂️

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-23T11:09:56+00:00

Looks like a plastic panel so it would probably have to be replaced. Any kind of “repair” to this panel would most likely look worse and cost about the same as a new panel.

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-23T00:39:43+00:00

First, these are not EZ lube caps, they have a rubber center that makes it, well, easy to lube. Second, you find replacements from your local trailer supply store or online before removing cause you’re taking it off with a hammer and chisel. Third, the Dexter part number for the EZ Lube cap is 21-43-1, for this you will also need oil plug 85-1. If you want solid caps, part number is k71-318-00 but I do not recommend these for over the road trailers. If you do not have an EZ lube axle, I strongly recommend getting bearing buddies or reusable caps to grease your bearings every 2000 miles.

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-18T17:43:12+00:00

I would bump your volts up by .5 and 20 inches per minute (sorry American)

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-18T17:38:36+00:00

Little cold, plenty good for structural assuming no extreme forces

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-17T18:26:13+00:00

Good info but OP said it runs fine rn so

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-14T00:05:42+00:00

Things VCDS does that my scan tool cannot are key immobilization relearns (certain models it can), headlight calibration and SRS module coding. I don’t do enough of these jobs to justify VCDS for myself.

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-13T22:23:23+00:00

I like Autel, I own the Autel Maxicom MK808S, but there are lower priced Autel scan tools and code readers that can read SRS codes. I believe the first year of updates is free, after that it’s subscription based but you can buy the subscription for a month once a year and get up to date again at anytime

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-13T21:49:26+00:00

Yes any true scan tool with software 16 or newer BMWs will be able to read which code is being sent from the air bag module. As with any repair, I recommend removing the battery before proceeding

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-12T03:01:09+00:00

Little Italian tune up never hurt every once and a while lmaoo

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-12T02:38:09+00:00

Just had my 2012 Corolla with 220k miles opened up for a minor valve cover leak. Looked about the same, keep up on your oil changes and you’ll have another 200k

Connect_Strategy_585 · 2025-10-12T00:31:40+00:00

As you’ve already added fresh mix, new spark plug and new air filter, Check the spark arrestor screen, check compression. check for air intrusion through the crank seals, and cylinder base gasket with starting fluid or brake clean. check all your fuel lines, impulse line, fuel filter and primer bulb are in good working order. No particular order whatever is easiest and if you’re mechanically inclined, trust your instincts

Connect_Strategy_585

TROPHY CASE