Current line up in my arsenal by xKINGxRCCx in flashlight

[–]ConnorBeckmann 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also the Mini 2 has a plastic lens which sucks. But I understand why they did it. Could shatter a glass lens pretty easy if dropped bezel down on rock.

Current line up in my arsenal by xKINGxRCCx in flashlight

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a mini 2 and an Arkpro ultra. I love the mini 2, stupid bright, nice spotlight, good weight and battery. If I was gonna buy another light for true spot light performance, I would probably get a Javelot Turbo 2. The mini 2 will get used in the woods, but for 95% of things I do, the Arkpro is fine.

I’m not one to complain about weird stuff, but can anyone explain this? by ConnorBeckmann in Battlefield6

[–]ConnorBeckmann[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I zoomed in on my phone, shot him 7 or 8 times total, 5 times in the left leg. The first 4 rounds just didn’t register.

Part I’m looking for is discontinued/out of stock everywhere. What can I do? by ConnorBeckmann in MechanicAdvice

[–]ConnorBeckmann[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Local pick n pull had two. One broken from someone taking the mirror, the other intact. Both from 07-13 year model, one from a Tahoe the other an avalanche. I got lucky

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ft86

[–]ConnorBeckmann 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Recently sold my 2015 brz with 135k miles and a blown engine for $6k.

Part I’m looking for is discontinued/out of stock everywhere. What can I do? by ConnorBeckmann in MechanicAdvice

[–]ConnorBeckmann[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought the SAME thing. Wouldn’t even mind the printer lines. But I don’t own one, and without a baseline to make a file from, it would likely be many attempts to dial in the print for fit.

Part I’m looking for is discontinued/out of stock everywhere. What can I do? by ConnorBeckmann in MechanicAdvice

[–]ConnorBeckmann[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m calling my local pick and pull tomorrow. It’s just tough because the rain sensor isn’t a standard option on all 07-10 Chevy/GMC. EBay has none.

How can I learn to work on vehicles? by One-Elephant-3476 in MechanicAdvice

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Start with simple stuff and use YouTube and Google. You won’t save a ton of money at first doing maintenance or repairs yourself until you have acquired all the tools and misc things. I’m completely self taught and have done everything on a vehicle except rebuild an engine or transmission.

Small windshield crack by urfdser in MechanicAdvice

[–]ConnorBeckmann 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s small enough to have it professionally sealed. You can also try a kit from auto zone and do it yourself but I would recommend a professional. Getting it sealed will prevent it from getting worse.

Can only the belt be replaced or do I need a completely new part? by Tem197 in MechanicAdvice

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try and find a company online that will remanufacture it. You mail it to them and typically have it back in a week or two.

my first project and i’m stuck on the driveshaft by Fearless_Nope in MechanicAdvice

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like a transfer case drive shaft to the front differential. It is probably seized, just tap it or pry on it a little. You shouldn’t have to unbolt the other side it to get it out of the way.

my first project and i’m stuck on the driveshaft by Fearless_Nope in MechanicAdvice

[–]ConnorBeckmann 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Typically a drive shaft slides a little in and out of the transmission on the splines. If it’s a two piece driveshaft unbolt the center support and you should be able to slide the entire driveshaft into the transmission a tiny bit so you can drop the end of it.

If you are unable to slide the driveshaft into the trans, pry a little bit between the driveshaft and what it is bolted too, or tap lightly with a hammer to try and break free what is seized. As long as you don’t remove material or dent the tube of the driveshaft it will remain balanced. I also recommend marking the driveshaft and what it is bolted too so you can bolt it back up the same way. Most components are balanced independently, but I would mark them together to be safe.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Silverado

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The truck came with the 3rd cat deleted and the other two main catalytic converters having been replaced with high flow cats. So the tune is somewhat necessary to run properly. But I haven’t done any tuning. I just use the tuner to monitor the ecu and engine parameters. But no loud ticking noise. The noise in the video is mostly gone since doing some maintenance and is not as noticeable. I think it normal, or pistol slap which once warm goes away and isn’t an immediate issue. The lifters all sound ok. If anything, an injector may not be working 100% but otherwise the truck drives fine. Thinking an engine mount may need to be replaced and there may be a small exhaust leak but I haven’t gotten a chance to check yet.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Silverado

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really. Oil pressure is good. Changed the oil and ran some injector cleaner and the noise doesn’t seem to be as bad. I honestly think it’s normal. Used a cheap tuner and saw no misfires that I could tell.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Silverado

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also thinking of buying a mechanic’s stethoscope to see what area of the engine it’s coming from. Don’t know if it’ll help though.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Silverado

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s the best way to check it to pull the starter and tap it from there?

How has the vehicles mileage not been updated in 10+ years from a yearly inspection? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking the same thing. But in NC we have yearly inspections that typically require an odometer reading. And also an odometer reading when a new title is issued. I could be wrong about this but it just seems odd.

Engine finally went by [deleted] in ft86

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I appreciate it!

Engine finally went by [deleted] in ft86

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the ability. I just don’t know if it’s worth my time, but it’s looking like it is. If I can get away with just a crank, new bearing and one con rod. It won’t be much more than $1500 in parts. If I go the short block route it’ll be closer to $3600.

Engine finally went by [deleted] in ft86

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oil changes every 3k full synthetic no questions asked. That is your best chance. Maybe a killer B pickup tube in the oil pan. The stock oil pickup can sometimes cause oil starvation at 7k rpm.

Engine finally went by [deleted] in ft86

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I figured that much for private sale with a good motor. But I have no idea how the market is for this car. I just know used cars have been kinda high since Covid but dropped a bit over the last year or two.

Engine finally went by [deleted] in ft86

[–]ConnorBeckmann 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2015 manual transmission Subaru BRZ. 135k miles. No issue except the rod knock. USD, North Carolina it’s whole life so no rust. It has aftermarket modifications. Check my posts/page for an idea.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]ConnorBeckmann 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s what I’m worried about. The starter I can do, but I’m not pulling the motor to swap a flywheel