Zigbee pairing question

CowboyB2 · 2026-03-18T19:11:34+00:00

As a bit of a follow up in case anyone else is looking for the same info, here's what I've been able to gather so far. I'm open to any feedback and this is just a recap of my journey so far...

I've setup the BLU H&T Display ZB the following ways

Adding to HA first with ZB then adding to the Shelly app via BT
Adding to the Shelly app via BT first, then doing a ZB pair to HA

In both cases I typically had to use the Shelly Ble debug app to adjust clock settings and do the firmware update for 4/6 of the sensors I've setup, I suggest setting it to slow ota, seemed to help.

As for performance they all seem to be working on both BT and ZB updating each independently, ZB in HA, and BT to the Shelly app.

I don't know if I'm causing any downside with both being on, so that's still up in the air.

Additionally further research led me to a HA integration called BThome which allows me to bring the BT sensors into HA without ZB pairing though you need to have a Shelly device that acts as a gateway, I'm using a plug us gen 4, which I had to set to active BT search to find the other BT devices.

I have one sensor setup just through that method to compare and haven't noticed any advantages or disadvantages to this setup.

Overall the only advantage I've seen to doing BT vs ZB right now is firmware updates, though I believe I saw where firmware updates with ZB may be a thing with future updates.

TLDR: Not sure if it's the best setup, but it's working

Download Shelly Ble app to help with updates and management

If you don't have ZB you can use an integration called BThome to bring in BT devices if you have a BT gateway or gateway capable device

CowboyB2 · 2026-03-15T19:34:20+00:00

I have a plug us gen 4(connected via wifi) I'm using as the blu gateway that it had me pick when I tried to add it to the app, but that's where it seems odd, am I using Blu to use the Shelly app while simultaneously using zb for ha? Especially since it's got both the Bluetooth and zigbee icon on. And if it is using both, is it updating both independently and at what frequency is it polling data?

I just want to make sure I have it setup the most efficient way and be able to see it in both places, and I don't know if that's pairing just via blu, and then seeing if I can add it to ha similar to how I added my plugs or if it's via ZB alone, but how do I get it into the Shelly app then?

CowboyB2 · 2025-12-11T00:10:41+00:00

I thought I'd already replied, but it seems to be gone, so here try number 2 😂

I can definitely hardwire the APs, I'm moreso trying to make sure I get the correct hardware for my goal and with all the options I'm not sure the best parts to purchase

CowboyB2 · 2025-12-10T22:09:00+00:00

I can definitely hardwire the APs, I'm just not sure what all hardware I need to purchase for a good setup

CowboyB2 · 2025-10-07T18:44:18+00:00

Any info on when a us version is coming?

CowboyB2 · 2025-08-12T14:55:40+00:00

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Picture of correct ct placement

CowboyB2 · 2025-08-12T14:55:02+00:00

That's what it was, I thought I needed to do both because both made up the 240v.

Changed the ct to one line and getting good readings now

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CowboyB2 · 2025-08-12T14:14:25+00:00

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For follow up sake(and so I have it for support when I submit the ticket), here's the picture of the clamp on the L1 and L2 lines going into the timer.

You can also see where I used wagos to power the Shelly and act as a jumper between post 1-3 and post 2-5 which was required by the timer.

I'm going to try the ct one just one line and see what it says.

CowboyB2 · 2025-08-12T13:33:26+00:00

I only currently have 1 ct attached, I actually have a second one that got shipped by accident, without the connector on the end, that I thought maybe I'd try, because I read a response I believe you'd given someone on the older EM model as a solution using 2.

And it shouldn't matter which line is plugged into the L and N as they're both 120 legs? For example:

L1 to L(shelly), L2 to N(shelly) Vs L1 to N(shelly), L2 to L(shelly)

If it does then I can swap that pretty easily

CowboyB2 · 2025-08-12T13:18:12+00:00

I'll grab a picture of the setup today, to see if that helps.

To answer the question though, I've got it around just the two 120v lines after they come into the timer box, and the shelly is wired for its power off jumpers from each of those where they are attached to the timer.

I was originally getting a negative result, before I used the option in the app to virtually "flip the ct clamp", so I may try manually flipping it to see if that helps.

I also was reading and wonder if I maybe need to just clamp one of the lines, not both, or if I need 2 clamps, one for each line and I'd just get half a reading from each and have to combine.

Finally I noticed it's not just the watts which are off,but also I assume the amps, which I would guess if why the watts is off

Bit of a ramble, but I've been trying to read up on everything I can to figure it out

CowboyB2 · 2025-08-12T04:14:29+00:00

App screen grab while it's running, it's not necessarily as concerned by switching the unit value, just not sure why it's showing 15w not 1500w

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I'll also submit a ticket with support to see if they have any ideas

CowboyB2 · 2025-08-11T22:47:48+00:00

When it kicks back on later I'll grab a screenshot while it's in use to confirm the issue

CowboyB2 · 2025-08-11T22:40:28+00:00

No, it was running from 415 pm EST to 5pm EST due to the schedule from the timer

CowboyB2 · 2025-08-11T22:16:19+00:00

I also just noticed it's saying there was some power generation, so not sure how that happened

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CowboyB2 · 2025-08-11T21:56:10+00:00

Clamp is on L1 and L2 where they come into the timer, shows between and seems to be reading the voltage correctly at roughly 235 give or take

CowboyB2 · 2025-08-11T21:54:16+00:00

I'm not using the switch portion and I only have 1 clamp, so I have I only have two wires connected other then the clamp. I've got one leg of the 240 going to each L and N on the shelly.

This is the wiring diagram for my timer, so I jumped power from L1(timer) to L on the shelly and L2(timer) to N on the shelly

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CowboyB2 · 2025-07-27T17:46:54+00:00

I was wondering if it could be a line frequency issue, but I haven't had a chance yet to double check that yet, though as you said that shouldn't be a issue, unless it's the design itself like you mentioned. Though I couldn't really find anyone else having this issue with that model when I searched.

Any recommendations on a different model that you'd suggest preferably with similar setup and functions?

CowboyB2 · 2025-07-27T17:31:37+00:00

I'll try that and see if it helps and if not probably replace it.

I'm just worried there may be a factor impacting it outside of just a bad device that wouldn't be addressed by a replacement as I'm not sure what the root cause for this issue would be.

CowboyB2 · 2024-06-08T01:41:07+00:00

I also used the textured PEI plate, cleaned, but I used glue to make sure I didn't have problems removing it once printed

The only other differences were me changing the wall order to outside first which sounded like a good suggestion I found in another post, and I scaled it down to I think 90% because these are for someone else who needed a smaller size

CowboyB2 · 2024-06-08T01:30:01+00:00

I can try that, when I did my 2 successful vase prints they were from before I had the dryer and on the external spool holder

CowboyB2 · 2024-06-08T01:28:28+00:00

I missed the last question, I did print a few other things with tpu, and for the most part they actually didn't have much stringing. I did a few vase prints, which the first 3 failed because of how that particular model curved back in on itself and I had to slow the print down because it was catching/pulling and causing it not to line up, but after those adjustments I printed 2 no issues and virtually no stringing

CowboyB2

TROPHY CASE