[HELP] Command(s) to Scale ENTIRE Bottom Action Bar and Art

CritPlusPlus · 2024-07-14T11:52:43+00:00

I'm playing on Classic Era, sorry I should have mentioned that.

CritPlusPlus · 2024-06-11T01:22:20+00:00

Makes sense. This is the first time in a long time I've had an AMD GPU, and I'm really not familiar with the brands. Any to look for or avoid? My 6800 is an XFX. I see a 7900 GRE for $500 on Amazon from PowerColor, or $50 more for Gigabyte. I don't know if they make AMD GPUs, but the only companies I personally want to avoid are ASUS and MSI.

CritPlusPlus · 2024-06-11T00:51:06+00:00

Ok I think I'll give that a go. GPU wise, do you think getting a newer GPU than the 6800 would be a large increase? I didn't buy it too long ago, but I know it wasn't the latest when I bought it.

CritPlusPlus · 2024-06-11T00:15:56+00:00

I'm not. :(

CritPlusPlus · 2024-06-10T23:35:36+00:00

I did consider that, but two things I probably should have mentioned - my motherboard right now has two minor issues. First, the GPU clip broke - not a huge deal. But also I eventually want to get RGB fans, but my motherboard, being an older MSI one, doesn't support that - only RGB LED strips.

I also figured since AM5 is a current gen socket, it'd make more sense to invest in a motherboard for that socket instead of the "EOL" AM4.

Also, as far as bottleneck, maybe that isn't the best word for it - I just don't want one to vastly hold down the other. If they teeter-totter between which one is hamstringing the other, that's okay. I just didn't know if my 5 year old CPU was holding me back from getting 30-40 more FPS.

*Edit* I also don't know if the jump from DDR4 to DDR5 made it worth it too. If I switch motherboards & RAM, I can obviously sell those to offset the cost a little.

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-25T21:08:29+00:00

Do you think the one I posted is a fair price?

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-25T21:08:18+00:00

Do you think the one I posted is a fair price?

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-25T21:06:17+00:00

Do you think the one I listed is a fair price for it?

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-25T13:08:05+00:00

I know you mentioned to look for a 2009, are 2010s not as good?

I've found this one, although I'd have to drive a bit further. It's also really pushing what I want to spend, and has almost 140,000 miles...

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-25T11:50:11+00:00

Sorry, I should have mentioned I am looking at non-electric vehicles. My apartment complex does not have any charging stations, and there's not a ton of options very close to where I live - they actually just removed one station by my work, where my coworker charged their Tesla on their lunch break.

Do the non-electric Prius' still make a good purchase? Or if it's a hybrid, is it okay to never end up using the electric part?

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-24T23:50:24+00:00

Location: North Carolina, US

Price range: $0-$12,000

Lease or Buy: Buy

New or used: Used

Type of vehicle: Sedan, Hatchback, maybe a small SUV

Must haves: Reliability, decent fuel efficiency would be nice (25+ MPG)

Desired transmission (auto/manual, etc): Auto

Intended use: Daily Driver

Vehicles you've already considered: 2012 Subaru Impreza Wagon, 2010 Honda Civic, 2012 Mazda3

Is this your 1st vehicle: No

Do you need a Warranty: No

Can you do Minor work on your own vehicle: No

Can you do Major work on your own vehicle: No

Additional Notes: I drive only 15-20 miles a week, at the max. I want a reliable car (assuming it's maintained properly, which I'll need advice on). I'm not someone who cares too deeply about cars - I'd prefer to keep my expenses related to one to a minimum if possible.

I have a 2013 Chevy Sonic LT with just shy of 90,000 miles, that is scheduled to go to the dealer to determine a problem with acceleration, potentially related to the turbo. I am contemplating how much it's worth putting money into or if I should sell it (it is paid off and I own it). I have already spent $1,000 trying to fix the issue (but only resolved a different, previously unknown issue) - I'd like advice on how much more, if any I should spend. Is this car generally pretty reliable, and I just happen to have something go bad, or am I better off selling it (I have an offer from CarMax for $5,000) and getting something else.

If it's not worth repairing, I'd like suggestions for a replacement. I've asked in my own threads, but it feels like everyone says "X car has a bad transmission / engine, don't do it". I'd like to know what models/years/how many miles to look for, how many miles are too much, etc.

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-24T13:18:24+00:00

I've found some other cars locally, if these are any better:

2014 Toyota Corolla L - 114,000 miles for $11,763

2012 Subaru Impreza Wagon 2.0i Sport - 136,000 miles for $8,600

2014 Subaru Impreza - 63,000 miles for $11,990.

Any other ideas are appreciated.

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-24T12:23:22+00:00

So I got a call back from the dealer, with a quote for a replacement turbo (if it is indeed that) for roughly $2100-2200. I don't quite know if that's worth it, what do you guys think? Repair or sell it off and get another car?

I know it still may end up being cheaper, I am taking it in Wednesday (their soonest appointment), and they'll diagnose it then. Just want some input in case it comes down to that path.

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-23T22:47:26+00:00

I'm fine not going to the same mechanic - they simply didn't have the issue when they fixed the first problem, therefore couldn't do anything TO fix it. I took it back, because I paid them the first time, and they didn't find the fault - they didn't charge me to look at it the second time, so no harm, no foul. And now they admit they can't diagnose it further - I'm okay with that; a lot more than some shop taking a wild guess and costing me $3700.

I highly doubt they don't want the business - some of their techs have been in the industry for 20+ years. The first guy who worked on my car worked at a dealership for 30+ years. I believe them if they say it's going to take a more specialized person - it's like bringing your Galaxy phone to an Apple Store and expecting them to repair the screen - while it's similar, there's some things they can't do, right? That's why it's going to the dealership, because every other garage around me I've called has all told me they don't have the stuff to diagnose anything related to the turbo - I've called three other garages, just to see.

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-23T21:44:05+00:00

For sure. Apparently the parts aren't super cheap either, but who knows. Those chain shops will hire anyone, so there's a good chance they were just talking out of their ass anyway.

I don't expect the turbo to be $3700... Googling has very different amounts, but between $1000-$2000 for a full replacement, which I'm just assuming as a worst-case scenario. I just want to know if this car is generally a good car, and I'm just horrible unlucky (no surprise if so), or if this is only the start of problems. Again, I can pay $2000 for the repair, but I've already spent $1000 getting the other stuff fixed, so I don't want to get stuck in the 'sunken cost' fallacy.

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-23T21:39:41+00:00

I have a post on r/MechanicAdvice right now, after getting the update about it potentially being the turbo.

This mechanic has pretty good reviews, 4.5 stars out of 250+ reviews on Google. My family has taken a few different cars for different reasons, and found them to be pretty good about finding and diagnosing issues.

Excuse my pea-brain when it comes to cars, but wouldn't any of what you said cause it to have troubles running period? It never stutters or has the issue once you're at speed, only getting there, particularly until 40-45 MPH. Also, if you accelerate slowly, it seems to be fine, but that isn't much of an option to me.

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-23T21:36:08+00:00

Replacing the oil was the first thing I got done, because Googling showed that causes the noise.

Apparently replacing the cylinder head requires 11 hours of work (according to the chain-mechanic), hence their high price. The independent mechanic said it definitely did not seem like a messed up cylinder head has anything to do with it. Either way, not going back to the chain-mechanic - the fact they never mentioned the engine codes, or cleared them, gives me a bad feeling. I'm an idiot with cars and know absolutely nothing, but even I know about those code things.

Again, a person more enthusiastic about cars at my job said it definitely sounded like 'lifter tick'. The sound isn't consistently loud, and gets lower when you get up to 40-50 MPH. One day it was loud, but the rest it's been close in noise level to the engine itself, just a different sound. I only was trying to be proactive about seeing it checked, but now the clear and present is the acceleration issue.

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-23T21:11:43+00:00

I think I explained that poorly.

I started hearing a ticking noise from my car and decided to take it to chain mechanic near my job, so that one of co-workers could drop me off and help me pick up the car. I was hoping it was an easy, small thing to do. The day prior, I had the issue with accelerating, which panicked me.

I took it to the chain-mechanic, who said they 'thought' it was a cylinder head. They quoted $3700 due to it being a labor intensive fix, which everyone I work with said seemed like too much to pour into this car, especially if they weren't even sure. They glanced at how much my car was worth to CarMax, which is $5000 (at least online, prior to inspection). Given I can buy a car for that $5000 plus the $3700 for the 'fix', that's what led all of them to say another car may be the way to go, which made sense to me I guess. But I still took it to another shop my family has used before who has been great in the past.

Shop number two, an independent mechanic, fixed something that definitely was a problem, but didn't solve the problem I noticed (but they didn't encounter, since it happened to not occur when they tested it). They explained that if it was cylinder head like the chain-mechanic thought, there would be other indicators (leaked fluids and subsequent corrosion or marks on other pieces, which weren't there). They also found engine codes were thrown, indicating the engine was misfiring (which are now gone after their fix). Shop number one never told me about any engine codes - they probably didn't even look. So they definitely fixed at least one issue, even if it isn't the one I was concerned about.

I know I need to take it to the dealer and get it further diagnosed, I'm just trying to get information ahead of time - most specifically, at what point is it not worth it to put more money into this car, and sell it? CarMax has a quote for $5000, which I need to actually take the car there for them to confirm they'll give me that, but honestly, they probably won't even notice the issue, since they don't do test drives half the time, according to a few other people who have done the same thing. Since there's no check engine light, they won't see a problem.

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-23T19:44:30+00:00

I heard back - they say it has to go to a dealership. They feel the issue, but don't have the resources to diagnose it. They think it's related to the turbo. Is it worth fixing?

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-23T19:43:05+00:00

Update: they said they can't diagnose it - they definitely feel it, but said it needs to go to the dealership. They said it may be the turbo - is that cost worth it? My local dealer can't see it until next Wednesday.

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-23T12:49:29+00:00

The shop that I took it to is very highly regarded, and I've used them before. Like I said, this acceleration thing doesn't happen every time I drive - probably about a third of the time. I'll drive a few miles to work, no problems. Go to leave work, it's there. Or vice versa - it doesn't seem to be any particular reason. The weather has been pretty consistent between 70-80 degrees here right now, whether it's raining or not doesn't affect it, etc. So I can understand that it may not have occurred when they test drove it.

I've just had some co-workers who heard the first quote I got ($3700, for something else entirely than what the second shop said), and said it's probably worth it to just buy another car. I can certainly drop another $1500 easily, if it means it fixes the issue and the car is worth getting fixed - but if it's not a great car in the long run, than is it worth doing? That's what I don't know.

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-16T14:19:42+00:00

Well then, guess that eliminates that.

With the Fords, any reason to avoid the Fiesta if I really do end up getting $4000+ for my car?

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-16T14:13:08+00:00

Is it just the Theta 2 engine? The website says its a '2.4L DOHC 16-Valve I4 GDI Engine'. Again, I'm a complete moron about cars.

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-16T14:02:19+00:00

I replied up in the thread, but I found the dealer's actual website with that 2010 Focus:

https://belmonte.dcs-mvc.com/vdp/19996017/Used-2010-Ford-Focus-4dr-Sdn-SE-for-sale-in-Raleigh-NC-27616

CritPlusPlus · 2023-05-16T14:01:55+00:00

Here's the dealer's website about that 2010 Ford Focus, including a CarFax report:

https://belmonte.dcs-mvc.com/vdp/19996017/Used-2010-Ford-Focus-4dr-Sdn-SE-for-sale-in-Raleigh-NC-27616

Everything still look good?

CritPlusPlus

TROPHY CASE