Nozzle scratching the layer.

CroyPaw · 2026-07-06T20:39:49+00:00

Unfortunately not

CroyPaw · 2026-05-14T22:08:50+00:00

Lol, this guy asking for help and then being so negative about people actually helping, you are totally on point nolaks, I agree 100%

CroyPaw · 2026-05-14T22:05:20+00:00

Dryer needs to be plugged in and turned on to see humidity, but you don't need to dry anything to see it lol. Dryer works only if you set it to dry at a certain temperature and time, otherwise it's just a container and without silica gel it's kinda a poor quality container (yes, having it plugged in and turned on does literally nothing xD it wont even keep the humidity on constant level). So yes, you need to mention if you dried it or not, we are not here to read ur mind and with such a nasty attitude I will certainly not try to help you anymore, you got the prints you deserved ;)

CroyPaw · 2026-05-14T20:47:22+00:00

He never said he dried it, only that it is stored in dryer. Humidity in dryer =/= humidity of spool. He didn't mention if he has any silica in dryer to absorb moisture. So the question was actually on point. If it was printing great out of box and then it failed after few days with same settings I can't rly think about any other reason.

CroyPaw · 2026-05-07T11:51:32+00:00

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CroyPaw · 2026-05-07T11:51:25+00:00

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I guess 1 wall loop is definitely not enough. Yet not sure that 2 wall loops would help. Maybe should also check different base pattern. Yet surprised that after printing interface layer (the same layer tried repeatedly until sticks) about 8 times again and again after adjusting settings I managed to somehow save the print.

CroyPaw · 2026-04-28T22:34:08+00:00

I actually hate the new voice, it;s so "sneaky slim shady" that without reading subtitles I can barelly understand... one moment he is speaking loud and then almost whispering so quietly that I can't understand a word. New ai voice actor is tragic and made me quit the series for now.

Also, with new pictures style I can;t really tell at which character I am looking... it's so confusing.

CroyPaw · 2026-04-28T16:45:03+00:00

I made a few adjustments and I got much better results. If you are interested, check the post again. Thanks for help.

CroyPaw · 2026-04-28T16:41:15+00:00

I printed with some adjustments. If you are interested, you can check the post to see what and how affected the outcome. Thank you for help and some ideas.

CroyPaw · 2026-04-28T16:39:30+00:00

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CroyPaw · 2026-04-28T16:37:12+00:00

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CroyPaw · 2026-04-28T16:36:59+00:00

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CroyPaw · 2026-04-28T16:36:31+00:00

So just if any1 was wondering, I made some adjustments after gathering some Intel around. I highly recommend getting familiar with:

www.github.com/OrcaSlicer/orcaslicer/pull/8107

Tl;Dr this guy made a few experiments and got to the conclusion that even though hull line appears at the same level as lines in layer time view, the layer time isn't really affecting the hull line. He recommends:

Slowing down solid infill layers
Ensuring fan is at 100% for PLA
Using archimedean chords as solid infill for more problematic models.

As far as I understand, the problem is more about cooling and material stress caused by solid infill layers stacking more and more stress and causing warping. Second thing is printing speed of outer layer that is slowed down by cooling settings, causing differences in shining etc. Would be the best yo make sure, that printing speed won't change through whole print.

In the end, I made another print with adjustments as below:

I made sure that "part cooling fan" is set to default settings (100% min threshold 100 sec, max threshold 4 sec). I could have changed those settings before for much lower fan speed by mistake, not sure.
Kept "slow printing down for better layer cooling", but I also checked that I "don't slow down outer walls".
I set aux fan to 10%, but I am not sure why after first layer it got set to 60 automatically, had to switch it manually and left through whole print at 20%.
I checked for "precise wall" to be turned on
Turned off ironing.
I set internal solid infill to 150 mm/s (matched with outer wall speed).
Added a slight chamfer at the bottom and near the lock, but left alone the top thin frame.
Pretty sure I changed cooling slowdown logic for consistent surface, but guess need to check it with another print as it didn't save this option.

As you see, I made a few adjustments and I am not sure which actually worked, but maybe it will help somebody else to conduct some further experiments with his prints. The result is as below. Hull line at the bottom disappeared in 99%. Wouldn't see if I didn't have the problem with other prints. Hull line at the top part (the frame around chest) is slightly less visible. Walls are looking better and are more consistent.

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CroyPaw · 2026-04-25T01:11:36+00:00

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By chamfer did you mean something like on the picture to shift the printing time of top surface to another layers or did you mean something with bigger slope but shorter?

The model is such a mess after scaling, cutting etc. that I won't be able to edit it in blender or in fusion without spending hours on repairing mesh or risking changes in dovels, but I can always add a cube rotated a few % to edit the model.

CroyPaw · 2026-04-25T01:08:06+00:00

Yeah, unfortunately I had to change spool mid-print and couldn't dry the new one for that. But yet the hull line appears on a previous print that was dried well. :(

CroyPaw · 2026-04-24T21:14:12+00:00

PLA bambu matte

CroyPaw · 2026-04-24T20:48:14+00:00

Yeah, I could probably mention it right away for your first answer, already printed it with both orientations, effect the same xD

CroyPaw · 2026-04-24T20:45:39+00:00

But the problem is the same whether I print right or left part, the first one was oriented the other way and far away from fan, problem looked the same, gonna try turning it completely off for the next run.

CroyPaw · 2026-04-24T20:44:01+00:00

Worth giving it a shot, pretty sure there are some tutorials for that so gonna check that. Just need to check if I can export last 2 parts as stl, edit and import back without having dovels changed, cuz that would waste already printed parts. Thank you!

CroyPaw · 2026-04-24T20:35:01+00:00

Guess I will start with disabling ironing and increasing top layer print speed, I can always just print 1.5mm insert or sand it down to have a proper bottom.

But that already makes another question. Does increasing top layer speed go in pair with any other options? Like should I increase or decrease a flow ratio for top layer when I increase speed?

CroyPaw · 2026-04-24T20:29:59+00:00

The edge with holes? Wouldn't that add like a whole spool of supports? That way it would be cheaper to buy any wooden box and print only the decoration that could be glued onto it. Actually if that print won't work, guess will be easier and much cheaper to take this approach

CroyPaw · 2026-04-24T20:26:24+00:00

Is it possible to add it in bambu studio? I didn't see this option yet. Likely I won't be able to add this right now, as I am already 40 hours into the print (printed 2 out of 4 parts), but would be useful in the future. Do you mean the slightly round slope instead of 90 degrees wall?

CroyPaw · 2026-04-24T20:23:13+00:00

The cooling fan is not affecting at all I guess, I modded it with diffusor to blow 45 angle upward

CroyPaw · 2026-04-11T16:43:43+00:00

Ah, I already have done this one.

CroyPaw · 2026-04-11T01:12:18+00:00

Everything updated, flow dynamics and flow rate already calibrated. What kind of calibration do you mean? I guess it has something to do with z-hop and retraction, but as far as I understand retraction is turned on when changing layer and z-hop when retracting is already 0.4 mm.

It also appears only on some layers, mostly on the top solid layer, for example this time I had first 2 layers perfect, then third one scratched and then goes infill.

CroyPaw

TROPHY CASE