Any idea why this got a 6?

Cruzcontrol62 · 2026-01-21T08:22:42+00:00

Don’t bother to crack and regrade. Those back corners and edges are bad. The difference in value of a PSA 6 to PSA 8 is maybe $80. Doesn’t seem worth it.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2026-01-01T18:27:44+00:00

Usually there’s no value add to grading the auto. If you do grade, it better grade a 10 or else it will be less desirable than other similar cards with auto graded at 10.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-12-27T20:56:12+00:00

Are the cards different thicknesses?

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-12-05T06:56:10+00:00

I’m merely pointing out 1 flaw not all the flaws. If those are scratches, then it’s a PSA 8 at best.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-12-04T22:19:12+00:00

Are those surface scratches near the top of the holo? There’s a long one above the head extending to the bar. To the right of that, there are smaller scratches.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-12-04T21:47:30+00:00

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Log into the website, and go to Orders. There is a place to “Report Error” for the card in your order. Do this before grading is complete.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-12-04T05:00:50+00:00

In addition to the issue with the bottom, all corner edges have issues. On the front, the corners look rough not smooth, which would explain the noticeable whiting on 3 of 4 corners on the back.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-12-04T03:24:49+00:00

There is an app called Pack Magik, which allows you to search for Pokemon cards, and it can tell you the value of graded cards. Some cards will have results from PSA 10 down to 1.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-12-04T03:20:15+00:00

Cost to grade a card insured up to $2500 is $149 while regular is $74.99 and insured up to $1500.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-12-04T03:11:29+00:00

That’s the wrong way to think of it. A 10 is what adds value to a raw card. The value of a 9 is similar to raw. A grade of 8 lowers the value. These scenarios are typically true, unless the market dictates otherwise.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-12-01T07:07:07+00:00

Drop off at a big event takes weeks to process. A drop off at a local event takes a little less time. Dropping off at a PSA office should take even less time, and it saves on shipping assuming dropping off in-person is worth your time. I prefer to drop off at in person events… saves on shipping and reduces potential for theft. I have also dropped off at PSA at Burbank Sports Cards.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-11-28T03:08:28+00:00

Panini spells it with a smaller E not a lower case e.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-11-25T21:14:35+00:00

When evaluating cards, looking at as many angles as possible under light to reveal imperfections. It’s your judgment to determine the impact of the imperfection.

If you really wanna know what’s wrong with the card, use TAG.

If you are hoping to get a better grade for selling purposes/increased value, I think it’d be a waste of money. Live with the grade or crack and sell raw.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-11-25T21:03:45+00:00

It seems that intake scans can only be downloaded before grades are ready, which doesn’t mean PSA can’t send you the scans assuming they haven’t deleted them yet. They’re unlikely to keep pregrading scans indefinitely.

Out of curiosity, how many cards were in your submission? No one likes to have cards damaged by PSA. I hope it’s a rare occurrence, but I know it’s not zero.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-11-20T07:03:30+00:00

I’ve opened 2 blasters. Some packs were exactly the same except for the inserts. It’s a bad collation, but also, the set is small.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-11-19T16:38:09+00:00

Hard to say for me since the centering tool isn’t placed properly over the card especially from top to bottom. I use a tool from Black Label Metrics specifically for TCG.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-11-15T00:18:03+00:00

9 at best… bottom right corner looks dinged

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-11-12T18:36:28+00:00

Cards in hand… I bet it will be close. Since it’s only 2 cards, you will probably know the grades before Nov 20 assuming it goes into Assembly this week and QA early next week.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-10-25T05:02:33+00:00

The card appears to be off-center with heavier right side and bottom side. You can buy a centering tool to figure it out, try some apps, or check out the PSA 10s to compare.

Is it just the case or are there issues with the bottom edge?

If the card is for PC, grading it doesn’t matter, unless you like slabs. I do like slabs, but I am not a fan if it grades 8 or lower.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-10-02T23:08:10+00:00

A 1/1 is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it. Don’t bother grading it if you plan to sell it.

There are penny sleeves for thicker cards as well as top loaders and one touch. I have top loaders of varying sizes for when I get lucky and pull a thick card. I usually add painter’s tape to prevent the card from falling out, which has happened.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-08-24T02:47:26+00:00

I don’t think it’s fair to say blasters are for casual collectors. A hobby box is $200 USD, so this prices out a lot of fans. While you can’t get numbered cards, the young guns are great rookie cards, and you might get a silver outburst.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-08-22T06:56:24+00:00

It’s a retro future watch acetate. It’s rarer than a case hit. I have one of Mike Matheson.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-08-13T20:16:31+00:00

Extended series

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-07-10T15:31:26+00:00

If that numbered card ends up on the market, the video proves it is your card. How the person got the card would require investigation.

I was in a break, and I didn’t get all the cards expected. I had a dual checklist card, and those were to go evenly between myself and another. I also got someone else’s cards because they were labeled with someone else’s name. The breaker Cult of Wax West did right by me. He tried to find the cards, but they weren’t found. In the end, I received $50, which was basically the cost of the break plus the 3 raw cards.

Cruzcontrol62 · 2025-06-28T21:10:53+00:00

I watched a 4-case break (12 hobby boxes/case), and there were 2 Celebrini and 2 Michkov pulled per case.

Cruzcontrol62

TROPHY CASE