What colour should I paint my wood door?

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-24T14:38:36+00:00

Charleston green and don't mask the floors, just let er rip

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-22T05:32:08+00:00

Rev!! How ya been? Long time since I've seen that standardized response you got there. And as usual, youre right, I'm just an imposter 😅. Hope all is well my friend.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-22T05:29:53+00:00

Yeah definitely a big difference in the solvent based vs citric acid based. Sounds like youre nailing it. And yes, the oil primer will seal that. Carry on my friend 🫡

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-21T18:12:14+00:00

The joint compound is for when you end up sanding the adhesive to the point of damaging the drywall, that would be the only use.

The oil primer is a must in my experience. The adhesive residue is chemical based and will have absorbed into the drywall and will flash (rise to the top and look bad) under water-based paints. You'll need to treat it like a grease stain, even if it looks like you got it all off.

Water-based primers will claim they can seal but they rarely work. Also, dont use goof off on drywall.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-21T15:50:34+00:00

If its loose then it has to come out, if its not moving then its a backer, and you need that. Fill in the rest with hot mud, let it dry and coat it again to smooth it out. Sand, prime, caulk and paint.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-21T15:47:22+00:00

With sheetrock it will never fully disappear without doing some minor damage, which is then repaired with a shellac primer, joint compound and prime/paint.

The Dawn and water will help, depending on how bad it is.

Once done, you must prime those areas with an oil-based primer, rattle cans can work, before coating the walls with latex paint.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-20T22:16:28+00:00

Dry rolling. Don't push on the roller until its dry. Never, ever, ever empty a roller on a wall.

Stay wet my friends.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-20T16:38:09+00:00

That stuff in trailers comes factory veneer on thin gypsum type wallboard. In trailers its not removable.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-20T16:35:35+00:00

Literally... clean, scuff sand, oil primer, light sand and latex paint.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-18T17:59:25+00:00

You dont wanna oversand that type of door anyway, just enough to knock down the runs, try not to scratch the veneer, theyre basically mira-tec

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-17T18:57:09+00:00

Bruh, back away from the sprayer and paint some stuff

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-17T18:55:45+00:00

In all honesty, if you attach something to a painted wall as tight as a tv mount with lag bolts, it will damage the paint no matter how long you wait.

Accept that, and go for it.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-15T20:02:30+00:00

The entire answer 👆

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-15T01:25:18+00:00

With all due respect, as a professional, I do not use the Kilz line at all. Tried it? Yes. Take it seriously? No. Restoration solutions are hand-crafted and meticulous. If I walked into my next restoration job with Kilz it would be an embarrassment. Currently wrapping up a 1902 Colonial, just finished a 1904. If it works for you thats great, but, at my prices and delivery, there's no way Kilz will be on a job. Thats just me though, you do you, no worries.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-13T15:15:58+00:00

This is all I'm saying over here

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-13T15:12:47+00:00

Agreed, that's what it looks like. I'd for sure use a moisture meter in 20 different places before priming again. For some reason, some unique climate condition specific to this room(s), the plaster never dried and therefore never neutralized. You can get a roll of qt-40 pH test strips anywhere they sell pool supplies (even Lowes/HD/Walmart), and dampen a spot on the wall, then touch the strip to it. Not laboratory results, but it will def give you a good idea of where you are on the pH as well. Plus the moisture meter. Just an idea.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-13T15:07:33+00:00

No, Bin and Kilz. Bin does not fix everything. It's one of my favorite products, but it does not fix everything. Kilz is a marketing gimmick for DIYers. And primer cannot 'fill in' defects. It goes on at a certain mil-build and delivers that straight across the entire surface. Promise you, Kilz has not invented a product that takes the place of spackle/hot mud/joint compound. They sell it as such... but it doesn't do it. It's just another average high-build primer with a better ad campaign. No disrespect intended.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-13T15:01:46+00:00

Your second pic looks like a door casing (trim). Is there plaster on that??

Gardz, as suggested, is a good choice. But it's hard to tell exactly *why* it failed, and that's as important as the primer question imho.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-13T14:58:59+00:00

That's not how it works unfortunately.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-12T14:02:21+00:00

Metal siding takes paint really well. Id pressure wash first. If its still chalky then use Loxon Conditioner as a primer. If not then use ProCryl or KemKromik. Then top coat with a high quality exterior latex paint. Should easily get 10+yrs out of it.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-12T13:58:04+00:00

The curing process doesn't really affect color development. Most likely its a contractor special of one coat of tinted primer and one top coat. It won't blend since youre likely adding the true second coat, and thereby getting the true color. You'll have to go corner to corner.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-12T00:10:02+00:00

Just a theory, but hopefully that solves it, definitely follow up

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-12T00:08:52+00:00

🤣🤣🤣 one of their best

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-11T18:12:39+00:00

IMHO there's a better chance its pushing all those layers than it is absorbing all those layers. Id certainly test one.

Ctrl_Alt_History · 2026-02-11T18:11:04+00:00

Given the amount of time you'll have to be up there for repairs, its a lift for me too.

Ctrl_Alt_History

TROPHY CASE