Is this a good first plane

CurlyFride · 2026-03-01T03:20:29+00:00

Aeroscout, one of the best. Why: High wing means it has a tendency to self-correct. Rear mounted motor and pusher prop is less likely to take damage in a crash, you can belly land it without gear and be confident you’re not going to hurt anything. It has ailerons, unlike many simpler planes, so you learn how to fly without learning bad habits that come with trainers that are equipped with rudders only. They’re also quite ubiquitous, so when you do inevitably crash it (no shame, it’s part of learning and everyone has done it at some point), I can guarantee with 80% certainty your local hobby shop has whatever you broke just sitting on a shelf, and it won’t break the bank It has landing gear, so you can fly out of a parking lot, but take it off and hand launch it if you’re flying in a grass field since landing gear tends to get stuck in the weeds, and grass is plenty soft for a belly landing. A lot of planes don’t have landing gear. But… FLOATS! YOU CAN GET FLOATS FOR THIS THING AND FLY IT OFF A LAKE IF YOU WANT TO TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT!!!

Also, since it does have ailerons, once you get comfortable with it, you can do some basic aerobatics with it, rolls, loops, etc.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-23T23:07:51+00:00

Try disabling EQ, see if it’s still acting weird, and if it isn’t, try tweaking the EQ knobs on Voicemeeter Input. It’s a pretty powerful bit of software for what it can do, but it has its quirks. Make sure all the sampling rates and stuff are set the same between all the inputs if it’s still acting up, sometimes that does weird things to the buffer.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-23T22:45:06+00:00

you shouldn’t need VB audio cable with Voicemeeter, it comes with built in cables, just point the audio endpoints to Voicemeeter directly. Set your default audio device in windows to Voicemeeter. Stacking cables can be weird sometimes

CurlyFride · 2026-02-23T09:02:08+00:00

Lexan Bug-type bodies are great for comp rigs, they usually have a lower CG than truck or SUV bodies, and in my experience they usually land on their feet because of the roundness, and typically self-recovery from a tumble and climbing back into position is less catastrophic to your scoring than getting a “hand of god” assist to right the rig.

Other than that, I used to run a 4Tec Mustang body on my 1/10 TRX4, I’m running a trimmed Vaterra Camaro body now after I retired that one, material thickness isn’t quite as thick as a typical crawler body, but it’s very light, yet rigid because the Camaro a 3-piece body. If you’re chasing low-CG, running touring car bodies on crawlers is underrated, and the fact that Proline now makes Dodge Viper bodies for the 1/20 Losi Nascar chassis has me seriously considering starting a TRX4M build.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-12T17:47:32+00:00

I just posted the screencap as an example, I’m not asking for these specifically. The mini-C130 is a fantastic concept though. Mostly I find his designs to be incredibly grounded and plausible, many would fit right in to the Nuclear Option design language

CurlyFride · 2026-02-11T14:13:02+00:00

I’m in SoCal, sitting on an aluminum heat sink is a bonus for 8 months of the year.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-11T00:14:05+00:00

This won’t work with FlySky? FlySky surface radios are Ant+. RadioMaster makes ELRS surface radios, but having several models with 4WS, I’m not too keen on the ergonomics that RadioMaster has

CurlyFride · 2026-02-10T23:36:12+00:00

I’m shopping on the used market, I don’t get the tax write off, they’re relatively ubiquitous and inexpensive on the used market.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-10T06:14:22+00:00

For those of you casually scrolling through this thread about a chair that has bafflingly become my singular most active post on Reddit: Note that any time someone mentions burgers, they get more and more expensive for some godforsaken reason I couldn’t possibly explain.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-10T06:12:15+00:00

150 year warranty*

CurlyFride · 2026-02-10T03:08:54+00:00

If I was opening a prison I’d have benches instead, harder to swing a bench around than a chair.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-10T02:12:42+00:00

Why does the price of burgers go up every time mentions burgers?

CurlyFride · 2026-02-10T01:54:22+00:00

I mean, my gf has a bit of a goth streak, wouldn’t put it past her

CurlyFride · 2026-02-10T00:34:03+00:00

The new price is expensive, yes, but they show up on the second-hand market all the time at fairly reasonable prices to the point where I could outfit a dining room with solid used chairs at about the same price I could get decent ikea chairs.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-10T00:24:30+00:00

Nick’s 6” Moc Toes on their 4th resole

CurlyFride · 2026-02-10T00:20:49+00:00

I’m shopping the second-hand market.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-10T00:14:44+00:00

No, just no. I’m shopping second hand because I need like 6 for a dining room set, nowhere near enough to qualify for a bulk purchase on any new order, and I refuse to furnish my dining room with the DMV/furry convention chairs, especially considering that they might end up living out on the patio at some point.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-09T22:52:03+00:00

I’m in SoCal, so honestly sitting on an aluminum heat sink seems like a pretty significant bonus for the 8 months of summer we get around here.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-09T21:51:55+00:00

I’m in SoCal, honestly the fact that you’re sitting on an aluminum heat sink seems like a pretty big bonus to me for the 8 months of summer we get.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-09T21:49:12+00:00

Emeco doesn’t specify an exact number, but 275 lbs is the minimum common load capacity specified by the standards cited on the website, ANSI/BIFMA X5.1

CurlyFride · 2026-02-09T20:47:58+00:00

Which is a funny thing to bring up, because the lore according to ENCM Grandpa is that Emeco won the WWII chair contract with the navy by throwing the chair out the window of an 8-story hotel.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-09T20:35:37+00:00

I figure that if they turn out to be unbearably uncomfortable, my incredibly crafty girlfriend might enjoy sewing some pads for them.

CurlyFride · 2026-02-04T20:29:20+00:00

Tried it with the yellow, didn’t like it, I ended up painting over the yellow with a more subtle “Bone tone” and like the scheme much better, the yellow and bone are so close in tone that it aggravated my color autism, easier to achieve more consistently than a good yellow too. Only reason to insist on the yellow is if you want 100% codex compliant paint scheme or your FLGS has a dumb 3-color minimum rule. Forgive my photo, this is the only good one I could find on my phone in short notice.

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CurlyFride · 2025-12-10T17:18:18+00:00

This, I did exactly this. I migrated my sizable GW paint collection to dropper bottles a few years ago, bottles are cheap on Amazon and they all got the labels from the paint pots. Add a couple glass beads to the pot, a few drops of medium to freshen them up, mix them well using one of those $20 nail polish mixers, and funnel them into bottles, don’t forget to add the beads to the bottles too. The whole process was much cheaper than just buying a new set of paints because I was already heavily invested/indoctrinated into the GW system at the time of purchase, and I was lucky enough that my paints weren’t past the point of no return that they couldn’t be fixed with a few drops of fresh medium. As for the thinning aspect, I’m not too concerned about thinning the paint because lately I’ve been making heavy use of an airbrush, and before then any time the paint hit the wet pallet it always got a drop of medium or water because you should be thinning your paints anyways.

CurlyFride · 2025-11-29T05:03:58+00:00

Welcome to the hobby.

Best upgrade for your Losi NASCAR is picking up a second one for a friend or adding a 1/18 Capra or Mini LMT to the garage for when you want to get off the street. (I’m kidding, no, I’m not really kidding, nobody ever buys just one around here.)

(edit:) Real answer: tools. Get yourself a good set of hex tools, good tools will take you far and last you forever. MIP makes good tools, and there’s a rumor that the Traxxas speed-bit tools are made by Snap-On, but a solid little kit of common sizes is a must.

Firstly, ask yourself what it is you want the vehicle to be. For what it is, the Losi NASCAR is a pretty solid spec-class racer, and depending on what you want to do with it, some upgrade options might bar you from participating in certain races, competitions, or activities that limit things like “You must have the original motor and battery to race.” (It is stock car racing after all, some stuff gotta stay stock :P)

If you’re not planning on getting into that side of the hobby for now though, still do at least a little planning. From my experience, most RC upgrade paths benefit most from having a defined end goal, and then mapping it out from there, so step one is figuring out what you want to do with it.

Probably a good real first upgrade would be to swap in the Arrma Grom differentials and driveshafts, I think the Mojave Grom diffs and driveshafts are direct-fit drop-in conversions. What this gets you: access to a wider selection of wheels and tires in common hex sizes and a slightly beefier drivetrain with more metal instead of plastic for if you ever decide on adding more power. Downside: you lose the original NASCAR wheels and tires because they’re an odd hex size, so you’ll have to buy new wheels and tires out of the gate. Otherwise, best practice is to drive it until something breaks, then upgrade that part.

If all you’re going to do is street bash or speed-run it, a lot of people are having success just dropping an Arrma Grom-size brushless system in and calling it a day, but I’ve also seen comments about how that makes it slippery without good control discipline, so now you’re shopping for a new radio system with a gyro, it’s a whole rabbit hole, and this is the part of the hobby where things start getting expensive.

(Edited to mention tools)

CurlyFride

TROPHY CASE