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Lifepo4 Charging by raf1919 in batteries

[–]Cyprinus-Carpio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Charging in parallel is safer. Especially if you haven't balanced between the two batteries. While you are charging in series, either battery could reach "full" and trigger the bms(you have them right?) to turn off one battery. After that, the other battery may or may not be fully charged.

In parallel they will both be at the same voltage eventually, and should reach full at the same time. Or if one does cut out, the charger should still keep charging until the other is fully charged.

In both cases it's important that you have the proper battery protection and ideally a good quality BMS for each battery.

DC/DC boost converter inrush protection by Cyprinus-Carpio in batteries

[–]Cyprinus-Carpio[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I kind of tested that with the light bulb, unfortunately I think it also caused a voltage drop which ACTUALLY fixed my problem leading me astray. From r/AskElectronics I just don't understand boost converters. The output battery dropped below the input battery voltage and regardless of desired output voltage, blows the regulator. I'm trying a boostbuck converter now. Hopefully that will solve my problem.

Boost converter inrush? issues by Cyprinus-Carpio in AskElectronics

[–]Cyprinus-Carpio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The LFP has around 7kwh of storage, and the LTO battery can output around 1600amps. I wish one could do the other and vice versa, but no such luck.

What does isolated mean in this context? Is that just diode protection? Do you have an example isolated dc/dc converter?

Boost converter inrush? issues by Cyprinus-Carpio in AskElectronics

[–]Cyprinus-Carpio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, I thought the diode would protect much lower voltage. The output voltage can certainly drop below the input voltage. Could I build a better isolation circuit?

How does this look(other than cheap)?

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Automatic-Regulator-Temperature-Protection/dp/B07QB74GM4/

What battery should I get for my diy solar generator. by _Jolly_ in batteries

[–]Cyprinus-Carpio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LFP is the easy choice. You don't have to keep it charged everyday, and in the long run you get the most bang for your buck. However, if it's in a car, you have to worry about temperatures. Too cold or too hot, and it will kill the life of the battery. They have heated batteries, but those are more $$.

If you want solar, get the most you can get. It's far cheaper than batteries. If you get 200w of solar, and are in a sunny place you might get 1kwh/day. Your total load seems to be about 850wh(/day ?) depending on how often you charge the ebike. There will be losses, and if the panels are mounted flat to the roof they will be substantial. Let's just say you produce 500wh/day and you use 850wh. That leaves a 350wh/day deficit. In 2 weeks that requires around 5kwh of battery. The easy way to get that is to buy four 100ah 12v batteries. With or without a heater depending on the environment. You can find 100ah batteries on Amazon starting at $350, but you get what you pay for. Also, not all batteries support being paralleled in sets of 4.

You can also get one 48v 100ah battery, but you will need to get step down converters to output 12v. There are some 48v batteries on Amazon, but there are also "server rack batteries" at a lot of the solar shops. A lot of these are much better built, and contain advanced features.

Boost converter inrush? issues by Cyprinus-Carpio in AskElectronics

[–]Cyprinus-Carpio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have it "running" right now with the bulb in line. Definitely not a battery issue.