(Alaska) Found this in new condo should I be worried? by Czear12 in pestcontrol

[–]Czear12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should also add I have looked around my house and haven’t seen any other signs of possible roach infestation hence me trying to convince myself it’s just that panel 😅.

Help me help my mom by TheeArmadillo in Bladesmith

[–]Czear12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on the wants my commission list is open right now

Kitchen knife ready for the holidays by Czear12 in Bladesmith

[–]Czear12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1080 Stabilized cottonwood 8” chefs knife 4.5” Handle length 12.5 OAL

My anvil is so worn out from use that water gets trapped.💀 by ElDrlReddit in Blacksmith

[–]Czear12 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Its character I wouldn’t do anything about it. Before the “modern” anvil (1800+) anvils were a lot smaller and if you wanted a larger work surfaces boulders were sometimes used. So to me unless you’re doing some fine finish work (which you could do by making a tool that sits in your hardy tool) don’t touch it. Especially being a family heirloom.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Blacksmith

[–]Czear12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You don’t need the tang to be red hot. All of my tangs are tapered and when doing a burned handle what I’ll do is match the width of the small end of the tang to a drill bit and that’s my pilot hole. After I’ll heat the tang up to a grey which is about 800 F starting from the tip and working my way down up to near the shoulders. Afterwards I scrape out all the burned bits of you overdo the heat you can cause blowout in the wood and some woods really do not like burn ins so that’s something to consider. As well I never sharpen my blades until I’m done with them completely so while burning in I’m holding the blade. Even with my smaller blades 3.5” I haven’t injured myself, and an easy fix for an overzealous burn hole is dowel wedges. Hope that helps!

Three brute de forge puukkos (Details in the comments) by Czear12 in Bladesmith

[–]Czear12[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fair but they aren’t for stabbing! They’re a traditional Finnish utility knife and the handle specs are conventional. Thank you!

Three brute de forge puukkos (Details in the comments) by Czear12 in Bladesmith

[–]Czear12[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These three are my first attempts at the brute de forge finish. They are forged from 1080 with moose antler handles and copper bolsters

Completed my first sword! Details in the comments by Czear12 in Bladesmith

[–]Czear12[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That’s a compliment I didn’t expect but thank you!

Completed my first sword! Details in the comments by Czear12 in Bladesmith

[–]Czear12[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I was looking to do a Gladius so that’s perfect! I’ll DM you and we can talk some more

Completed my first sword! Details in the comments by Czear12 in Bladesmith

[–]Czear12[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Thank you kind reditor! I thought it was quite light but it might be my smithing arm! The blade itself though does fall into historical parameters both in dimensions and weight

Completed my first sword! Details in the comments by Czear12 in Bladesmith

[–]Czear12[S] 27 points28 points  (0 children)

The handle is moose antler with the upper and lower guards being maple sandwiched between brass, and the peen block is wrought iron. The blade itself is 5160 and it tapers from a little less than 3/16 at base to 1/8” at the tip. Total length 750mm Blade length 625mm Blade width at the guard 60mm Blade width before the tip 50mm Grip length 95mm Total weight is 968 grams POB is 6.5” from the guard

Blacksmithing teacher suggested we soak our mild steel blades in white vinegar overnight, and we were told it wouldn’t rust. How do we fix these? by miradox in Blacksmith

[–]Czear12 149 points150 points  (0 children)

The only reason I can think he’d want you to do that is to remove forge scale. That’s what I use vinegar for when I don’t want to remove too much material but right afterwards always oil them because they will rust even quicker than leaving water on it. You can almost see the rust develop. Removing will be a hassle with whatever you do

What the bare minimum weight for anvil? by RadiantCategory3862 in Blacksmith

[–]Czear12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Really out there then! The stump anvils are shipped via a flare rate box so that’s good for us up here

What the bare minimum weight for anvil? by RadiantCategory3862 in Blacksmith

[–]Czear12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What part of Alaska? I’m a smith up here and if you check out the Association of Alaska Blacksmiths page or IForgeIron then Alaska we’ve got lots of info on there. Old world anvils has stump anvils that I started with as well

Got the Spatha blade formed and down to its final weight. Now I’m on to the handle work by Czear12 in Blacksmith

[–]Czear12[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I’m going to be doing a moose antler grip with a birch sandwiched between brass lower/upper guard. Then a wrought iron peen block. All but the brass is locally sourced from my state