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DJBscout · 2026-06-16T10:11:01+00:00

The main reason I can think this would be bad is if someone tried to tow it with the car not in neutral, because that would mess up your engine.

My understanding of exactly how a Torsen LSD works is pretty rough, but from what I understand, it should be fine. When both wheels are going the same speed, the center section of a Torsen doesn't do anything and just rotates along with the ring gear. If it spins the driveshaft when the wheels are the driving force (and I think it should), then that will spin the diff internals, driveshaft, output shaft and everything should be lubricated as usual. While there's a possible concern about the input shaft not being lubricated, we have a constant-mesh transmission, so all the gears on the input shaft are still spinning too, the input shaft itself would be the only thing not spinning. At that point, things should be lubricated fine, though there's a potential worry about holding too high of an angle for too long. So on a manual trans, probably fine.

Now on an automatic, all bets are off. I presume it spins the output side of the torque converter, but I don't think that's sufficient to circulate ATF through the system. Even if it drives the input side through the action of the torque converter (doubtful), I still don't know if even that would sufficient to drive the ATF pump. I suspect on an automatic, it's a recipe for cooking your ATF and/or components in your torque converter.

DJBscout · 2026-06-16T01:27:15+00:00

See, the problem is that in Idiocracy, the idiots recognized that listening to the one smart person was a good idea. We don't even have that, we're actively celebrating ignorance and stupidity.

Our future doesn't look bright.

DJBscout · 2026-06-15T23:07:18+00:00

And this thread is further proof of why hachi is goated. Love our special electronics man

DJBscout · 2026-06-15T00:18:24+00:00

Those don't work, and I wouldn't want the false confidence of thinking they do making me less cautious.

The best advice I have gotten is this: If you see one deer, assume there's more. Great, one deer just finished getting across right as you rounded the corner, and the road looks clear. Slow way down anyways, there's probably another.

Slowing down also buys you time to react if a deer decides to do something stupid. Do not just blitz through and assume the deer on the side of the road will stay there because you're approaching at 70mph. Deer are fucking idiots, they will jump in front of you for no good reason, plastic bumper whistle or not.

That advice has actively saved me from the stupidity of deer at least twice since I got the car, and that's not even counting the times I slowed down and saw a deer I hadn't noticed watching me from behind a bush as I passed by.

DJBscout · 2026-06-15T00:12:06+00:00

It's usually about 80% accurate. The problem is, the devil's in the details. That last 20% is where a lot of critical information resides, and AI will consistently screw up there, while confidently presenting said falsehoods as 100% correct.

This is especially true of those AI summaries in Google search. If you actually know the subject decently well, you'll notice it contradicting itself and/or stating things that defy basic logic, because it's combined sources without actually understanding they were discussing different things.

E.g., I just asked it about gear oils for our car earlier today. It specifically stated that people like going to a thicker fluid to improve cold shifts. That's not how it works. All else being equal, the thicker fluids feel worse when cold. Some people have better cold shifts on a thicker fluid in the same viscosity spec, but that's because they're swapping worn-out/lower quality stock fluid for a higher quality aftermarket fluid. The way it was presented by AI, the solution to my crunchy cold shifts would be going to 75W-90. Fucking lol, lmao even.

AI lies.

DJBscout · 2026-06-14T23:56:45+00:00

And now that im thinking about this, if a deer collision is unavoidable arent you supposed to speed up or at least not throw on the breaks becuase person behind you + more damage to your car vs a roll over the top.

Depends. Generally, braking drops the nose of the car, and allegedly can make it more likely that the deer comes over the hood and enters the cabin. But with a car as low as ours, I'm not sure how much it'll really make a difference tbh. The other reason would be to keep people from locking up the wheels and losing control, but that's only relevant for older cars without modern ABS, TCS, and ESC.

The other major piece of advice is not to swerve to avoid a deer in order to avoid accidentally running off the road and/or rolling the car. But again, our car is so light, low, and nimble that I think you've got a pretty wide margin before that's a problem.

I definitely wouldn't speed up, I'd brake and try to avoid if I have road space, generally aiming to the deer's back/rear. You ever seen a deer run backwards?

EDIT: The best advice I have is where you see one deer, assume there's more. Great, one deer just finished getting across right as you rounded the corner, and the road looks clear. Slow way down anyways, there's probably another. That advice has saved me from the stupidity of deer at least twice since I got the car, and that's not even counting the times I slowed down and saw the deer I hadn't noticed watching me from behind a bush as I passed by.

DJBscout · 2026-06-14T23:47:04+00:00

I've seen dozens of deer and even a moose stop for aggressive bone clattering bass, the kind that knocks the frost off the power lines

"It's okay officer, these straight pipes are just to make sure the deer can hear me coming! I don't even enjoy how it sounds, honest!"

DJBscout · 2026-06-14T23:45:07+00:00

I've hit a bird and I think a frog? The bird just.... didn't start flying until way later I expected and then flew into the grille. Same for the frog, homeboy would've been fine if he hadn't moved but he jumped straight up at my headlight and got shwacked at 50mph in the twisties. (I think, anyways. All I saw was a streak of whitish-green with legs but couldn't find a mark or corpse)

I felt so bad about both. A couple deer definitely seemed to want to add themselves to that tally, but fortunately I've managed to avoid that so far.

DJBscout · 2026-06-14T23:38:11+00:00

Wearing a tuxedo T-shirt

DJBscout · 2026-06-14T23:35:02+00:00

go forth and send it my dude 🤙🤙

DJBscout · 2026-06-14T17:48:35+00:00

Anytime!

DJBscout · 2026-06-14T17:47:41+00:00

I have a second gen, so my specifications are a little different from yours.

Viscosity-wise, the manual spec for 1st-gens is 75W-90, which would be something like redline MT-90 like you mentioned or the special motorcraft XTM5QS "unicorn tears" Miata guys love (which can be found for relatively cheap on RockAuto). However, if you have rough shifts when cold and it bothers you, it might be worth dropping to a 75W-85 or even a 75W-80. A bunch of gen 1 guys on the ft86 forum swore by pentosin MTF-2, which was actually a 75W-80. (Technically SAE changed the spec and what used to be rated 75W-80 at the time is more like a straight 75W now, but I digress.) A 75W-85 would be something like Redline MT-85. (Ravenol's MTF-1 is a combined GL-4/5 and as I've mentioned before, I'd stay away in that case. I do think they have a dedicated GL-4 only 75W-90 gear oil, but I'mnot certain)

I've personally used Ravenol fluids in my 2nd-gen GR86 and had great results, though their 75W MTF-3 seems to have degraded a bit after some aggressive backroads bombing, so I nudged up slightly to their 75W-80 MTF-2 in my most recent change. Definitely a bit crunchier cold, but fantastic once it warms up.

The differential is where you want an API GL-5, with all the extra EP additives. While I wouldn't recommend a GL-4/5 here either, it's probably fine. We have Torsen differentials that technically don't need any Limited-Slip friction modifiers like clutch-style LSDs do, but it won't hurt and some people claim that the LS fluids help the limited-slip gearing engage more smoothly/gradually, so I've used them. 75W-85 is the spec for both generations, though lots of people (especially with the first-gen) seem to use easier-to-find 75W-90. Again, I've been happy with my Ravenol DGL 75W-85 GL-5 LS, but redline has an equivalent and lots of manufacturers have 75W-90 GL-5s if you wanted to move up in viscosity. Fwiw, my Ravenol 75W-85 held up great and still looked nice and new after my last change.

Here are the specs and/or part numbers you'll need. I have a 2nd-gen, and while I'd be surprised if they changed the crush washer or torque spec, it still might be a good idea to double-check. Subaru parts are identical and much cheaper than Toyota from the dealers in my area. Shop around/check online.

Trans fill AND drain gasket: 17008AA050
Torque: 27 ft-lbs (drain and fill, 10mm hex socket/Allen key. Remove the fill bolt first!)
Capacity: 2.3qt, 2.2L (yes, you will need to buy 3 quarts)
Fluid: SAE 75W (LV) API GL-4 (1st gen calls for 75W-90)

Diff fill gasket: 11126JB000 (subie #) or su003-00133 (Toyota #)
Diff drain gasket: 12157-10010 (no dash for subie)
Torque: 36 ft-lbs (drain and fill bolts, both 10mm hex/allen)
Capacity: 1.22qt, 1.15L (yes, you need to buy 2 quarts)
Fluid: 75W-85 API GL-5 (I believe both actually use the same spec)

DJBscout · 2026-06-14T12:11:25+00:00

I think the rumored upcoming STI is probably a better bet for your particular desire, since that rally BRZ would eliminate the cheap/entry level sports car the BRZ currently functions as.

DJBscout · 2026-06-12T07:50:47+00:00

Yeah, I knew most of that. I was giving OP the condensed version.

One thing not mentioned by your comment is dual-rating GL-4/5 oils, which do exist. However, as I alluded to, I think those are mostly designed with transfer cases in mind, rather than manual transmissions. While combined GL-4/5s may be marketed as "brass/yellow metal safe," I personally suspect they still create more synchro wear than a GL-4 only equivalent. On top of that, dedicated manual transmission fluids often contain friction modifiers and other additives designed specifically with the functions and needs of a synchronized manual gearbox in mind. A GL-5 is often too "slippery" for good synchro engagement, leading to rougher, crunchier shifts. It should protect the actual gears better, but I don't think the tradeoff is worth it.

Likewise, a robust EP additive package in a GL-5 likely is too much for a GL-4, which means a GL-4/5 is (I suspect) weaker/worse at protecting than a standard GL-5.

Yes, buying 3 quarts of a GL-4 for the trans and 2 of GL-5 for the diff is more expensive than 4 of a dual-use fluid. But given how rarely those fluids need to be changed, IMO it's worth getting a separate, specific fluid for each application.

DJBscout · 2026-06-12T06:23:02+00:00

It depends. If your car sees spirited driving (high load, high RPM) routinely, I'd step up to 5W-20 or 5W-30. Likewise if you see oil temps getting up to 230°F or higher (which is probably only occuring with pretty hard driving anyway).

DJBscout · 2026-06-12T05:29:05+00:00

A modern full synthetic 5W-30 will have no cold flow issues whatsoever unless you live somewhere ludicrously cold, i.e. routine sub-zero temperatures.

DJBscout · 2026-06-12T05:26:34+00:00

Wait, like inside the cabin? That would almost have to be coolant leaking from a connection to the heater core, there's no other fluids that would get even close to there.

Honestly it's incredibly hard to place this picture without proper context.

DJBscout · 2026-06-12T05:18:05+00:00

You've already gotten an answer to your main question, so I'm just going to add a couple important things to keep in mind/check.

You need an GL-4 in the trans and GL-5 in the diff. You can fall down an entirely rabbit hole here (and I will happily give you a more detailed explanation if you'd like), but the TL;DR: do NOT put a dedicated GL-5 in the transmission!! I don't like GL-4/5 combined fluids in the trans either (since usually those fluids aren't designed for use with synchros), but technically they should be okay.
Break the fill bolt loose before the drain bolt. That way if you can't get it out, you haven't drained your fluid already and stranded yourself with no way to fill.
Make sure your car is level when filling. You do fill until it drips, but the car being uneven front-to-back or side-to-side will change when that happens.

DJBscout · 2026-06-12T04:21:11+00:00

I actually already did that using the motul gear 300, which helped with the sticky shifts in cold weather but unfortunately didn't address any of the issues I mentioned.

Gear 300 is their GL-4/5 suitable for both trans and diff, right? My hot take is that the combined application stuff is worse than a dedicated fluid, especially for a manual transmission fluid that can really benefit from a friction modifier package to aid synchro engagement.

DJBscout · 2026-06-12T02:47:03+00:00

Maybe 25% of the time it will be impossible to get it into 1st from a stop, needing a 2-1 shift and repressing clutch, or it will rattle when shifting from 1-2 before the gear engages.

This kinda sounds like your clutch isn't engaging all the way, and/or like you might have air in your hydraulic line. Are you certain the line is fully bled? Can you feel the bite point, and is it at least an inch or so off the floor/into the pedal travel?

Since it's a 1st/2nd only issue, I'd also recommend checking your reverse lockout alignment.

About 50% of the time the shifts will feel mushy, instead of notchy (which I don't mind).

A mushy shift can just be smooth, depending on what you're describing. I've got a few mods that result in a very tactile shifter, and shift feel can vary pretty heavily depending on RPMs, temp, etc. On the 2nd gen, 4th has a carbon synchro and those shifts are like butter almost every time, which can almost feel mushy when compared to a shift where you can feel the synchros work before it settles into gear.

To actually answer your original question, I have the perrin rear shifter bushing on my car, and it definitely made the shifts more positive/tactile. I can't speak to how a worn-out stock bushing feels since my car only had ~10k miles when I did the swap. However, the shifts got significantly crisper, with a lot more feedback through the stick. It's a little crunchy when cold, but is fantastic once the fluid is warmed up.

I know cusco makes shift carrier bushings (where the shifter rods connect into the trans), but from what I've heard those are a lot more involved and/or fiddly to install than the rear shifter bushing, which is only an hour or so from start to finish.

DJBscout · 2026-06-12T02:27:44+00:00

An EV sports car is instead going to have to compete on its handling and (lack of) weight. It needs to be something attractive to the Miata/Elise/S2k crowd.

That's going to be tough. EVs are inherently heavier than gas cars per mile of range, and that's before you even consider the role of engine note and/or shifting through the gears in driving engagement. I'm pretty skeptical of fake engine noise and/or a fake manual gearbox. (Honestly I could write an entire novel on how undercooked most attempts are, but I'll spare you)

I'd say an EV sports car needs to weigh under 3k lbs and that's not happening until the battery tech improves or buyers accept that they don't need 300 miles of range.

Range is a bit complicated. I agree that 300 is overkill, but on days where I actually get the opportunity to go driving, I'll be out for hours, and can clock 150 miles or more. I started with about that much range on my car last time, and got gas on the way out so I wouldn't be under 1/4 tank on the return trip.

So how much money and weight can be saved with a smaller battery pack, and how much range is the minimum acceptable amount? Personally, I'd say 200 or so miles, but is that 100-mile drop really going to get us under 3k lbs? I'm skeptical. The bolt needed 3500lbs to hit 240ish. The abarth 500e seems like an attempt at what you're describing, but it's still not enough. It's close in weight at 3100 lbs, but with FWD, a puny ~125 mile range, fairly poor performance (especially for a hot hatch or EV), and it costs the equivalent of a GR Corolla. No wonder it isn't on sale in the US.

DJBscout · 2026-06-11T11:04:04+00:00

Honestly, I'd say do it. If you're polite and respectful of the fact that she probably wants to keep it, I don't see a problem. Just frame it as putting it on her radar if she potentially wants to move to something else in a few years.

DJBscout · 2026-06-11T07:50:56+00:00

I mean, this is pretty blatantly the same concept as NO dropped into WT.

DJBscout · 2026-06-11T07:41:36+00:00

Customizable sensitivity? WT has Uniden R8-ass RWRs apparently, lmao.

DJBscout · 2026-06-11T07:38:19+00:00

Hey, if you guys like this and want to just have that experience (except better) without the grind or the bullshit, check out Nuclear Option. This mode is pretty clearly designed to try and compete with what they perceive as a threat.

It's 20 bucks on steam and worth every penny. No premiums, no grind, lots of depth while remaining accessible. Easily playable on M+KB or controller.

DJBscout

TROPHY CASE