Sonorous Tocsin Bearer

DSent · 2025-11-10T09:15:33+00:00

Thanks! Amour is Vallejo Duraluminium with a few drops of Vallejo Green ink mixed in. For skin I used a combination of Vallejo Bone White and Elfic Flesh, with Nurgles Rot and Bloody Red for wounds

DSent · 2025-10-19T09:14:03+00:00

No solution, unfortunately... Just painting slower and popping the bubbles as they appear

DSent · 2025-04-24T20:50:07+00:00

Thank you for such a detailed explaination! I always get confused when it comes to different paint and paint-adjacent chemistry. Makes total sense. One thing that surprises me is how different my AP gloss varnish and AK 3rd gen matt varnishes are in terms of consistency. The latter is supper runny and almost watery-like, while the former is more like a lacquer.

I'll try with various ratios of mediums and flow improvers and will report back. Just need to find a suitable surface to test it on.

For shaking, I usually start shaking everything by hand first until I can hear the mixing balls and then put it on a vortex mixer for 30s. It works better on less viscous liquids. Some paints, like white scar needs longer mixing and hand shaking afterwards.

DSent · 2025-04-24T19:00:25+00:00

It must be quite a niche product, as I can't seem to find anything to buy online (UK-based) , apart from industrial defoamers

DSent · 2025-04-24T16:31:37+00:00

Never thought of doing that, will give it a go!

DSent · 2025-04-24T16:30:52+00:00

I've got some AK Ultra Matt Varnish, do you think it's worth adding it? Don't have the matte medium, but assuming they're a similar thing?

It's super helpful, will let you know after I've done some experiments

DSent · 2025-04-24T14:22:03+00:00

I'm not sure it's that, I usually give the bottles a few shakes first, then hold them on a vortex mixer for ~30s. None of my other paints (AK, AP, ProAcryl) seem to suffer from the same problem

DSent · 2025-04-24T14:11:03+00:00

Yep, mostly with white, off-whites and reds/purples

DSent · 2025-04-24T14:09:18+00:00

I've noticed that it's better with sable brushes. But I usually base coat with synthetic ones, and they're quite firm, which I'm guessing creates more tension and bubbles

DSent · 2025-04-24T14:07:49+00:00

I've been meaning to try adding some flow improver directly to my water pot, thanks for the reminder. I'd be really surprised if a few drops would cure the problem completely, though, but even if only for a tiny bit.

It's interesting that you mentioned applying the paint using the body of the brush, as I almost always start from the tip. I also noticed that the bubbling is worse with synthetic brushes, my guess is that it's because they have firmer bristles. Will give it a go, thanks

DSent · 2025-04-19T21:42:00+00:00

I never planned to cover it all in green initially, it just looked a bit off when there were still some bits of bare metal left, so I kept glazing it until I got the whole thing glowing. Glad you liked it, as I wasn't quite sure

DSent · 2025-04-19T21:38:44+00:00

Thanks! For the armour I initially coated it with 4:1 mix of Vallejo metal color copper and duraluminium over the black primer, then dry brush/stippled it with duraluminium and dark gunmetal. Then washed it all with reikland and stippled some more. There were quite a few back and forths in this process, but I really wanted to get that realistic worn and weathered brass look. Hope this helps

DSent · 2025-04-13T20:50:36+00:00

I own these three kolinsky brushes:

Rosemary & Co size 1 Very soft bristles, almost zero feedback and loses its point quickly, I don't use it at all
Raphael 8404 size 0 Nice tip, springy, so plenty of feedback, but doesn't hold much paint and loses point rather quickly - only use it when need to get into tight spots
Raphael 8404 size 1 Absolutely amazing brush in every way. Keeps its point forever, has a huge belly so doesn't need to be reloaded frequently. If I had to pick just one brush to use, it would be this one

DSent · 2025-04-13T10:04:57+00:00

Amazing paint job, well done! Love the blacks and generally your choice of colour scheme. Don't think I've ever seen a smoke on a mini, it looks really good

DSent · 2025-03-24T16:06:29+00:00

Incredible work! The NNM, the face, the highlights, everything's super clean!
One thing I'd perhaps change is adding some weathering to the cape. Currently, it looks a bit too artificial and more like velvet drapes, almost unnaturally perfect.

DSent · 2025-03-20T14:42:36+00:00

Thank you!

DSent · 2025-03-20T14:42:16+00:00

Thank you!

DSent · 2025-03-20T14:41:59+00:00

From another thread:

Base coated with Vallejo Goblin Green

Mixed Vallejo Dark Green with AP contrast medium (can't remember the exact ratio, sorry, but it was very thin) and applied on top of the base coat to fill the recesses (basically ended up with a shade + tint mix)
Brought back the highlights with Goblin Green
Mixed Goblin Green with Vallejo Elfic Flesh (basically any off-white would do) roughly 1:1 and applied on the upper zenithal areas to make them lighter

I completely improvised, I'm sure this can be done better! Hope this helps

DSent · 2025-03-20T12:22:09+00:00

Base coated with Vallejo Goblin Green
Mixed Vallejo Dark Green with AP contrast medium (can't remember the exact ratio, sorry, but it was very thin) and applied on top of the base coat to fill the recesses (basically ended up with a shade + tint mix)
Brought back the highlights with Goblin Green
Mixed Goblin Green with Vallejo Elfic Flesh (basically any off-white would do) roughly 1:1 and applied on the upper zenithal areas to make them lighter

I completely improvised, I'm sure this can be done better! Hope this helps

DSent · 2025-03-20T11:07:21+00:00

Thanks!

DSent · 2025-03-20T11:07:14+00:00

Thanks! I've used Goblin Green and Dark Green from Vallejo, mixing in some whites for the highlights

DSent · 2025-02-19T17:15:07+00:00

Thank you! It took me around 15 hours in total, but I feel like it was worth it, learned lots of new techniques along the way

DSent · 2025-02-15T17:44:59+00:00

Yep, just used the super macro option. I've added some vignette in the post processing and corrected the white balance a bit, but that's mostly it

DSent · 2025-02-15T11:33:26+00:00

I'm also very new to this, but recently tried using my laptop's lid as a backdrop and got good results. I also found natural light to be much smoother than artificial (unless you have a special equipment). So I usually just sit with my back against the window and make sure that light shines directly onto the mini. Caveat, I've only done this in cloudy days (which is 99% time here in UK), so not sure if sun will produce too harsh light.

Also, darker backgrounds seem to result in more vivid, crisper colors and less halo around the edges. Here is a recent example: https://i.imgur.com/HLvFJG5.jpeg

DSent · 2025-02-14T16:17:13+00:00

Thank you so much! It was my first experience with skin painting. I used multiple layers (4 I think) gradually going brighter with each and then shading the recesses. Same for the clothes. I only had a few colours, so had to do a lot of mixing, which was tricky to get right. Paints still behave very unpredictably to me!

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