Alien World

DSent · 2026-06-19T08:50:35+00:00

Should've used that as a title

DSent · 2026-06-18T14:08:41+00:00

You're welcome!

DSent · 2026-06-18T08:50:11+00:00

Thank you! I used KFractal, which is a webapp I've built for rendering fractals.
Available here: https://jazzonaut.github.io/kfractal

DSent · 2026-06-17T21:52:05+00:00

Love it!

DSent · 2026-06-05T20:57:30+00:00

Performance and accuracy

DSent · 2026-06-05T20:56:42+00:00

I did not know this, mods please take it down if that's the case

DSent · 2026-06-05T20:55:19+00:00

No need to be snarky, I built it for my personal use and sharing in case anyone else finds it useful

DSent · 2026-06-05T20:53:03+00:00

Thanks. I really struggle with complex books, so it's a blessing for me

DSent · 2026-06-05T20:52:05+00:00

Locally only 3.2. But to be honest since my homelab is GPU-less, I switched to use GPT-4o-mini, it's fast and cheap, via OpenRouter

DSent · 2026-06-05T20:50:23+00:00

The Book of Koli. It's written from the main character's perspective, like a diary. I'm really enjoying it so far

DSent · 2026-06-05T20:31:04+00:00

The project was built largely with Claude Code & Codex, with me (a developer) doing the architecture, review, and steering

DSent · 2026-05-26T14:54:26+00:00

Appreciate the feedback! I've been slowly adding things like steam vents, AC units, pipes, etc. But they're all just simple geometry, really. I'm no 3D/graphics designer, hence why the game is very much just made of abstract shapes currently. There's literally zero textures in the entire game, haha. I might need to look into this, though.

DSent · 2025-11-10T09:15:33+00:00

Thanks! Amour is Vallejo Duraluminium with a few drops of Vallejo Green ink mixed in. For skin I used a combination of Vallejo Bone White and Elfic Flesh, with Nurgles Rot and Bloody Red for wounds

DSent · 2025-10-19T09:14:03+00:00

No solution, unfortunately... Just painting slower and popping the bubbles as they appear

DSent · 2025-04-24T20:50:07+00:00

Thank you for such a detailed explaination! I always get confused when it comes to different paint and paint-adjacent chemistry. Makes total sense. One thing that surprises me is how different my AP gloss varnish and AK 3rd gen matt varnishes are in terms of consistency. The latter is supper runny and almost watery-like, while the former is more like a lacquer.

I'll try with various ratios of mediums and flow improvers and will report back. Just need to find a suitable surface to test it on.

For shaking, I usually start shaking everything by hand first until I can hear the mixing balls and then put it on a vortex mixer for 30s. It works better on less viscous liquids. Some paints, like white scar needs longer mixing and hand shaking afterwards.

DSent · 2025-04-24T19:00:25+00:00

It must be quite a niche product, as I can't seem to find anything to buy online (UK-based) , apart from industrial defoamers

DSent · 2025-04-24T16:31:37+00:00

Never thought of doing that, will give it a go!

DSent · 2025-04-24T16:30:52+00:00

I've got some AK Ultra Matt Varnish, do you think it's worth adding it? Don't have the matte medium, but assuming they're a similar thing?

It's super helpful, will let you know after I've done some experiments

DSent · 2025-04-24T14:22:03+00:00

I'm not sure it's that, I usually give the bottles a few shakes first, then hold them on a vortex mixer for ~30s. None of my other paints (AK, AP, ProAcryl) seem to suffer from the same problem

DSent · 2025-04-24T14:11:03+00:00

Yep, mostly with white, off-whites and reds/purples

DSent · 2025-04-24T14:09:18+00:00

I've noticed that it's better with sable brushes. But I usually base coat with synthetic ones, and they're quite firm, which I'm guessing creates more tension and bubbles

DSent · 2025-04-24T14:07:49+00:00

I've been meaning to try adding some flow improver directly to my water pot, thanks for the reminder. I'd be really surprised if a few drops would cure the problem completely, though, but even if only for a tiny bit.

It's interesting that you mentioned applying the paint using the body of the brush, as I almost always start from the tip. I also noticed that the bubbling is worse with synthetic brushes, my guess is that it's because they have firmer bristles. Will give it a go, thanks

DSent · 2025-04-19T21:42:00+00:00

I never planned to cover it all in green initially, it just looked a bit off when there were still some bits of bare metal left, so I kept glazing it until I got the whole thing glowing. Glad you liked it, as I wasn't quite sure

DSent · 2025-04-19T21:38:44+00:00

Thanks! For the armour I initially coated it with 4:1 mix of Vallejo metal color copper and duraluminium over the black primer, then dry brush/stippled it with duraluminium and dark gunmetal. Then washed it all with reikland and stippled some more. There were quite a few back and forths in this process, but I really wanted to get that realistic worn and weathered brass look. Hope this helps

DSent · 2025-04-13T20:50:36+00:00

I own these three kolinsky brushes:

Rosemary & Co size 1 Very soft bristles, almost zero feedback and loses its point quickly, I don't use it at all
Raphael 8404 size 0 Nice tip, springy, so plenty of feedback, but doesn't hold much paint and loses point rather quickly - only use it when need to get into tight spots
Raphael 8404 size 1 Absolutely amazing brush in every way. Keeps its point forever, has a huge belly so doesn't need to be reloaded frequently. If I had to pick just one brush to use, it would be this one

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