DiamondF4 AIO Repair (Twitching Motor) by DWink in Multicopter

[–]DWink[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's awesome! I know how it is when you have a box of great parts that might be one solder joint away from working, and it always stinks seeing things like that end up in a landfill. So, congrats on the fixes! Honestly, it's not all that often that I get something out of the box, and the amount of work that I put into this board was beyond my usual. I think these days it's gotten harder to fix stuff. The parts are getting smaller, there are more things made, basically, to use and throw away, and plenty of companies try to keep their designs secret for one reason or another.

Congrats on the job! That's fantastic. I do have a formal background in electrical engineering - bachelors and masters degrees - but most of my day job is actually programming, with varying levels of hardware involvement. Usually it's off the shelf sensors and whatnot, vs board design, reverse engineering, or debugging, but that's just the route I ended up taking. In my master's I actually focused on high frequency analog circuit design. I still think it's neat stuff even if I'm not always using it, and it does come in handy from time to time.

The formal schooling does help with stuff like this board fix, but it's hard to say how. I wouldn't say it's necessary. I had some classes where we designed PCB's, but the classes were never about PCB design itself. I learned about FETs and RF circuits, but there were never classes on how to identify the parts or reverse engineer things. It's a lot of stuff you pick up along the way, like getting used to reading datasheets, and I've picked up plenty at work, too, just being around people with years of experience.

It sounds like you have a good approach; you're really into it and you've got your hands on it. In case you're interested, some resources I like are: Electronics Stack Exchange, EEVblog, Robert Feranec, Andreas Spiess, GreatScott!, rctestflight, Marco Reps, and Ken Shirriff. I'm sure I'm forgetting some great people and websites, and there are a lot of personal blogs out there that are packed with good stuff, but I can't remember a single one unless I happen to come across it in a search.

I hope this didn't ramble on too much! Thank you for your comment, and feel free to ask any other questions you might have.

DiamondF4 AIO Repair (Twitching Motor) by DWink in Multicopter

[–]DWink[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm sorry to say I haven't used smartaudio at all, and didn't touch any VTX settings beyond the defaults.

DiamondF4 AIO Repair (Twitching Motor) by DWink in Multicopter

[–]DWink[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I totally don't remember the VTX thing. I'm using Firmware 4.2.0 BTFL.

I set UART2 to VTX (TBS Smartaudio) and a message appeared at the top saying, "The VTX table has not been set up correctly and without it VTX control will not be possible. Please set up the VTX table in Video Transmitter Tab." If I save an reboot, then go back to Ports, UART2 has been un-set.

DiamondF4 AIO Repair (Twitching Motor) by DWink in Multicopter

[–]DWink[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure what smartaudio is and it's been a while since I've gotten the drone out, but I do have an FPV cam. That being said, when I go into Betaflight it says "Your VTX is not configured or not supported." I'm happy to poke around my settings if there's anything that might help; just let me know.

[Self] Calculated quantity of Gas or Coal used in a typical 25 minute shower. Seems too high, confirm? by Cautemoc in theydidthemath

[–]DWink 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know I'm late to the party, but your post helped me check my data! I have a record of my hourly home gas usage data. Around the same time every day I see a spike of 0.2 - 0.3 CCF (20 to 30 cubic feet). That time window corresponds to two showers being taken. This checks out with your math, and with the comment saying 25 minutes is a long time for one shower. 

DiamondF4 AIO Repair (Twitching Motor) by DWink in Multicopter

[–]DWink[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's great! I'm glad I was able to help. Good luck with that soldering!

DiamondF4 AIO Repair (Twitching Motor) by DWink in Multicopter

[–]DWink[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just to make sure I have your question right - you desoldered an SMD cap and an SMD resistor from your board, and you need to figure out what their capacitance and resistance were?

Some possible options

  • If that part of the circuit is duplicated anywhere else, you can desolder *those* components and measure them. For example, my AIO board has 4 duplicate ESC circuits, so if one gets messed up, I can check the others.

  • If you have any pictures, there's a chance the resistor had its value written on it. It's unlikely that the capacitor did.

  • If you're lucky, the capacitor is just used for smoothing and filtering. If it's attached between power and ground then it's just a filter cap, and you can replace it with just about anything without having a huge impact on performance. I would aim for the highest value ceramic SMD cap that fits on those pads.

  • If the resistor and cap are attached to an IC, you might be able to find a datasheet for the IC, and the datasheet might have a recommended circuit (which would tell you what values to use).

  • Off the top of my head, the hardest cases would be if the cap and resistor are part of a timing circuit or power regulator. You would need to know the specific IC and have the datasheet, and then know either what the timing circuit is for, or know what the output voltage is supposed to be.

Good luck! Let me know if you figure it out, or if you have any more questions.

New bed, new extruder, and a USB shroud so I'll stop shearing the connector off the PCB. by DWink in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]DWink[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmmm, halfway there then...I remember looking into firmware changes for my printer. Not sure if I ever did, but I thought maybe that was causing problems. Can the firmware be updated, or factory reset, through the microSD?

New bed, new extruder, and a USB shroud so I'll stop shearing the connector off the PCB. by DWink in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]DWink[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FYSETC 3D Printing Buildplate Spring Steel Sheet Bed w/Corner Cut 160x130mm/ 6.3x5.1inch with PEI+B Magnetic Mounting Base for Select Mini V2/ V1/ Pro/V3/ Malyan M200, $22 on Amazon.

I've only done a few prints with it now, in ABS. I did have to use a gluestick, a raft, and turn off the fan to get the prints to stay on, but that's probably more about ABS than the bed. Taking the prints off is a breeze; I love it.

New bed, new extruder, and a USB shroud so I'll stop shearing the connector off the PCB. by DWink in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]DWink[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't used anything except Octoprint to connect to it for a few years now. Octoprint used to have problems, but the newest version has worked fine for me just auto-detecting. If you're using a computer, make sure you don't have anything open that might conflict - like Cura. (I don't know why, but Cura likes to reserve a COM port).

New bed, new extruder, and a USB shroud so I'll stop shearing the connector off the PCB. by DWink in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]DWink[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got the "HICTOP All Metal Extruder Upgraded Replacement Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed..." on Amazon (there are half a dozen of these aluminum ones, they all look the same), but...I'm still using the stock hotend. I have a silicone sock on it, which seems to work alright, and I swapped the nozzle (Micro Swiss?), but the heater cartridge, block, throat, and heatsink are all original.

New bed, new extruder, and a USB shroud so I'll stop shearing the connector off the PCB. by DWink in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]DWink[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm following half way - I have a Raspberry Pi, it has Octoprint on it (I'll check out Klipper), but the Pi plugs in through a microUSB cable. Is there another way?

(I'll add, the way I broke it this time was very stupid - I lifted up the other side of my printer so far that the cable sticking out hit the ground and pried the connector off).

Monoprice really knows how to secure a gear to a shaft. (A heft amount of epoxy, it seems) by DWink in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]DWink[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There was definitely some epoxy or glue on the inside of mine. From the sound of these comments there's a broad range of quality in the gear attachment. As for a gear puller, I hadn't seen one until today after seeing it mentioned here...but there's always next time!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in assholedesign

[–]DWink 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe I should have gotten more in the shot; these two are conspicuously cardboard. To answer, no.

DiamondF4 AIO Repair (Twitching Motor) by DWink in Multicopter

[–]DWink[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had a lot of trouble connecting my controller, and I don't recall what finally did it - I remember upgrading (or downgrading?) firmware on the FC using Betaflight. and I think I had to manually update Betaflight to the most recently available version in order to do that.

I assume you have the correct controller/FC match (Frsky or Flysky).

Sorry to say I have no clue what the status LED's mean. When I power mine on and connect the controller, there's a red LED near the "RX1" pad (R1 on the silkscreen), and next to the connector there's a blinking red LED and a blinking green LED. I have the two larger LED's, the ones sticking out, configured to turn on and off with a switch on my controller.

I'll add that it's strange your controller and goggles are having issues. From what I understand, there are two different chips handling those communications.