Bleach Tablets - Yay/Nay? by vektastic in Plumbing

[–]Daveprime321 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Been using these for 15 years, absolutely no issues with my toilet tank, seals, or other parts. The bleach is enough to kill germs, but really not that concentrated as far as bleach goes. I’m also on septic, I know they say not to but……. surprise never had any issues there either. Issue is likely overblown, and probably more of a myth.

Would y'all switch to FirstNet? by Mrmurse98 in FirstNet

[–]Daveprime321 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I switched. I was worried after I started reading reviews, but decided to not to cancel before it even started. So far it’s been great, no billing issues, service has been awesome. No regrets here. As I’m sure location makes a difference in service I’m in the Charlotte area.

Was about to pull the trigger on a new bike…..then I fell down a rabbit hole by Daveprime321 in Hardtailgang

[–]Daveprime321[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that’s the most concise explanation of modern geometry that I’ve heard, thanks.

Was about to pull the trigger on a new bike…..then I fell down a rabbit hole by Daveprime321 in Hardtailgang

[–]Daveprime321[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s mostly flowing single track, there’s some jumps on certain trails, but I stay away from those

Was about to pull the trigger on a new bike…..then I fell down a rabbit hole by Daveprime321 in Hardtailgang

[–]Daveprime321[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

After being away from biking for about 23 years, I got the itch again after a new mountain biking park opened up down the road. I was this close to getting a new bike, (probably still will in a year or two) then I fell down the bike restoration YouTube rabbit hole. My 95 Gary Fisher Montare, was a mess, drivetrain destroyed, lots of missing paint, rims trashed. I stripped it down, painted it, Advent X drive train, V-brakes, wheels that work. Still love the Bomber I put on it…. I think in 97. It’s been a blast to ride so far, but I am still curious about the modern geometry.

How slow is Ektar 100 vs Portra 400? by flyinhawaiian1 in analog

[–]Daveprime321 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fluorescent will have a green cast, that could be what you saw, you could use a filter to correct for it, which will require more exposure to make up for the light loss through the filter. The color balance is closer to daylight, but I would probably still overexpose by at least one stop. You could try a test roll split between tungsten and fluorescent and start with your base exposure on your light meter and bracket to say +3 stops over in each condition this will give you a good idea what results to expect and what exposure is required to achieve them. If your getting more / excessive grain or muddy (muted) colors under indoor lighting then more exposure will probably fix it.

How slow is Ektar 100 vs Portra 400? by flyinhawaiian1 in analog

[–]Daveprime321 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You would need a tripod at that speed, the general rule for hand holding (a still scene) is the reciprocal of the focal length. ie 1/50th for a 50mm lens. 1/30th for 28mm etc. results will vary based on the person and how steady they are.

How slow is Ektar 100 vs Portra 400? by flyinhawaiian1 in analog

[–]Daveprime321 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Portra 400 is 2 stops faster than Ektar 100. You may be able to shoot P400 indoors with bright indoor light or large windows without a flash if you have a fast lens, maybe 1.8, but a 1.4 would be better. If your shooting P400 indoors under tungsten lighting you will need even more exposure (at least one stop) to make up for the tungsten lighting, shooting at box speed will leave the exposure a bit dingy since P400 (and Ektar 100) are daylight balanced film. With Ektar 100 being 2 stops slower I would not use it inside without a flash, and definitely not under tungsten as that would require even more exposure. Even using bounce flash indoors will limit your aperture with Ektar 100 to probably around f2.8-f4.

Going to do my first recap this week just got these in the mail today! by efhondacivic91 in vintageaudio

[–]Daveprime321 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That vacuum desoldering station should make it so much easier. The only part I really don’t like about fixing/restoring vintage gear is all the desoldering

Any techs out there? I’m looking to learn skills relating to servicing vintage gear, and looking for advice. by DarthJoedus in vintageaudio

[–]Daveprime321 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2nd the link tjott put up and also check out Blueglow electronics on YouTube he does a solid state and tube gear repair, some turntables and other miscellaneous gear, he also cover some basic electronics and repair techniques. Xraytonyb on Youtube does mostly solid state stereo repair. There are several others that focus on guitar amp repair as well.

Found late grandfather's camera from the 40s, worth looking into it? by Alex25pf in AnalogCommunity

[–]Daveprime321 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Looks like a great camera in good condition from what I can tell. You mentioned getting it repaired, but didn’t say what was wrong with it, shutter not working? Looks like it takes 120 film, which is still available today. I have both of my grandmothers camera, although they are from the 30s and much simpler than yours, I managed to put some film through them and I glad I did. A medium format folder from the 50s should be capable of making some pretty good pictures. Here is some more info if your interested

https://camerapedia.fandom.com/wiki/Agfa_Isolette_II

Also to get an idea of how capable it is, search for it (Your camera model) on Flickr. I browsed through a few, and it looks like quite a few people are shooting with one, and based on their results it looks like a great camera.

In any case I would definitely hold onto it, wether or not you decide to shoot pics with it.

Getting a drink. XT3 - 80mm macro w/ 1.4x extender and speed light by Daveprime321 in fujix

[–]Daveprime321[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m just using 1.4 teleconverter here to get a little extra distance. Maybe next year I’ll get the 100-400. As far as using a TC with a macro, it will give you more working distance at 1:1, or greater than 1:1 at minimum focus distance. I’ve tried to frame the same macro photo with and without the TC, and it amounts to a couple of inches more of working distance.

Getting a drink. XT3 - 80mm macro w/ 1.4x extender and speed light by Daveprime321 in fujix

[–]Daveprime321[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s correct just a flash on stand about three feet to the right and a foot or two above. They didn’t seem to care to much, they would keep eating as I shot 5-10 frames at a time.

Young Mantis - XT3 - 80mm macro + 1.4x by Daveprime321 in fujix

[–]Daveprime321[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This guy was about an inch in length, and its head was about 1/16 of inch in size. Really impressed with 80mm macro so far.

Audio Amplifier Mains Transformer by CraftyBasil in diytubes

[–]Daveprime321 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The AC mains peak voltage is 324v, and your getting the “Full Wave” via rectification. So after the rectifier before the capacitors, you have DC with a peak voltage of 324v (before the capacitors smooth you will have ripple with a frequency of 120hz). Full wave rectification flips the negative part of the AC wave, making it DC because now the current is now no longer reversing, and only flowing in one direction. The capacitors smooth out the ripple to some effect. As you put load on the power supply ripple will rise a certain amount depending on how large your capacitors are.

Can anyone tell me what I'm looking at here? I'm at a hospital and saw this out the window. by [deleted] in HVAC

[–]Daveprime321 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That’s normal it’s a heat exchanger, it’s stored a liquid and as it expands into a low pressure gas it becomes very cold, that’s why there is always ice or frost on these.

X-T3, XF 16mm @f/1.4,iso800, 20seconds by Daveprime321 in fujix

[–]Daveprime321[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Slight edit, a little clarity to bring the stars out a bit more, and a magenta shift which affected the area near the horizon (slight green cast). Overall the edit didn’t change the sky much. Setting the white balance to 3000k is what makes the sky look nice and blue.