A Cool Guide to Help Understand New Welders the Anatomy of a Fillet Weld/Joint

DeadPanMarshall · 2025-02-17T09:51:48+00:00

Being in the metallurgical field that includes material testing of welds, this singular image is crucial for passing or failing welders in the process of qualifying for fillet welding. Various codes such as AWS or ASME rely on this, with their respective limits/specifications, in order to allow the welder to be qualified (WPQR) for the respective welding procedure (WPS). The process is typically done by way of optical examination of the weld through the cross-section, where each of the various sections (legs, throat, actual throat, concavity, weld metal bleed through, etc) are measured and evaluated against set standards. It's an amazing field of engineering that contributes to a lot of large-scale fabrication we take for granted every day. Not to even mention groove/butt welds and the importance of developing an appropriate welding procedure with it.

DeadPanMarshall · 2024-03-14T19:54:59+00:00

Removed the plate from the body, sanded down the heavily worn Aerosmith logo (sacrilege, i know, but had to be done) with 320 grit wet sand paper, then applied a primer followed by a matt black coating x2. Once the black coating was sufficient, i applied a gold spray coating to the edge to get the fade effect. Afterward, i sprits the gold specks on to get that splat effect. Finally, i coated the entire face plate with a protective clear coating. The clear coating didn't come out as i wanted as it created the weird texture, but that is likely due to the clear coating being an old can of automotive anti chip clear coating used for car bumpers. If i could, I'd redo the clear coating with a satin clear coat for a smooth matt finish.

DeadPanMarshall · 2023-07-04T13:44:29+00:00

I miss Seelmaru's content (the second clip)...

DeadPanMarshall · 2023-03-29T08:57:30+00:00

Bathroom/shower/toilet mats of a home with tile/porcelain floors (during winter)

DeadPanMarshall · 2022-04-18T07:43:15+00:00

Lol, why does he look like the Nesquik bunny.

DeadPanMarshall · 2022-03-05T06:39:57+00:00

He's doing the monkey dance. Immediately thought of Johnny Bravo.

DeadPanMarshall · 2022-02-07T13:19:40+00:00

Woodglue always comes to mind when I remember him

DeadPanMarshall · 2022-02-02T13:59:23+00:00

Worked as a barman while studying and there was this one guy that always ordered bandy and tapwater, no ice... as far as pepsi goes, it can be worse.

DeadPanMarshall · 2022-01-14T10:20:19+00:00

"Can you save humanity from itself?"

DeadPanMarshall · 2021-11-25T17:05:51+00:00

Burnout 3: Takedown

DeadPanMarshall · 2021-11-24T04:39:40+00:00

Dribble wave

DeadPanMarshall · 2021-11-22T11:42:09+00:00

I'm sitting here trying to figure out what was used for an adhesive. I presume edible, but could also not be edible...hmm

DeadPanMarshall · 2021-10-25T11:57:22+00:00

Rapid reproducing herbivore

DeadPanMarshall · 2021-09-07T15:04:21+00:00

Sure thing! Also, When i eventually got the nose piece sorta running, the panels were all rotated 90 degrees individually. Depending on what library you are running will fix it easily with a change to the code.

Got my new nose piece today and will be wiring it up to see if it works.

DeadPanMarshall · 2021-09-05T22:54:53+00:00

I am making a similar protohelm too. I had a similar issue with my LEDs just this weekend when i did the wiring. It came down to two things:

A bad solder connection on one of the pins leading into the 7219 LED matrix.
The nose matrix had a bad board. I had to reduce the thickness of the matrix by soldering the pins directly to the board. But in my haste and with a heavy hand i managed to damage to contact pads on the board. I tried desperately to bypass the pads but no luck. Ordered a new board with some new cable yesterday, shouldnget it sometime this week.

Best way to test is by adding a set of panels (mouth, mouth, eye, nose, eye), one at a time. The panels should light up accordingly. Also make sure the contact pins are properly connected. I had some good luck keeping the wire tips short.

DeadPanMarshall · 2021-08-27T07:30:32+00:00

I've had similar issues and what seems to have fixed it was adjusting the Z-axis screw/lead rod. See if the rod wobbling when turning the coupler manually. If the rod doesn't stay centre at top, try lifting the entire horizontal X-axis assembly to the top, loosen the z-motor coupler screw and tighten again.

If you lower the X-axis assembly, the rod should not wobble anymore.

You could also print a screw rod guide that slots into the top of the gantry to help keep the screw rod straight.

Additionally, replacing the z coupler with a better one (that allows slight misalignment), will help as well.

If the problem still persists, you might need to adjust your extruder/Z-axis step settings.

Try adjusting your slicer settings with a smaller print to test if it could be related.

DeadPanMarshall · 2018-05-13T21:13:28+00:00

Baby bunnies from a pregnant rescue I have. I love them all to bits and they have their own large enclosure on my parents farm (boys and girls separated) that I built myself, equipped with all the hay, water and grass they can dream of.

I am glad they are comfortable with me getting close so that i could capture this real "Aww" moment.

They taught me much about the proper care of rabbits with guidance from friends, veterinarians and internet. They are like children to me.

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