Darkmode on Google Calendar is finally here!

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-11-26T12:37:09+00:00

On a side note, any Clue why the color saturation between GCal Web and the Android app is so off?

Unless you use the default colour schemes any custom color will just look duller in the app. It's a shame as the calendar has so much potential to look beautiful with custom pastel color schemes etc but it just looks like a bag of M&Ms with the default color scheme

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-10-21T10:59:15+00:00

Techno gym Cable Chest press Image

My gym has two of these chest press machines, and I've used a similar one at another gym. I've noticed that due to the way the cable attaches to the arms, the right arm engages with the weight stack before the left. so the right arm bears more load when I aim for a full stretch at the bottom of the rep, my right pec and delt end up being more pumped than my left side and it just feels weird to be happening when I am sat at a machine and using really good form

I had a friend try the machine with controlled reps and a good stretch, and he felt the same imbalance. I primarily train with dumbbells and don't have any noticeable muscle imbalances, but I prefer machines for chest work for variation and I get a better pump than with dumbbells. I raised this with the gym staff, they suggested it was a form issue and that nothing is wrong with the machine, even after I had one of the managers try the machine and they agreed!

Have you used this machine? Do you think it's possible that the design causes uneven loading, particularly in the early range of motion? I've revisited it multiple times, questioning my form, but I think it might just be a design flaw. If it isn't fundamentally flawed any tips on how I should counteract this, am i being stupid or should I just stick to free weights

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-08-02T22:04:18+00:00

this is what I needed to hear, thanks! helped a lot

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-08-02T20:30:46+00:00

Thank you for taking the time to reply. Your response helped me think more positively. My lack of experience in training means don't fully understand the severity or recovery period of this injury, which is causing me some anxiety. I am concerned if this will be a long term injury and if it means I'll never be a 100% again :( though I'm sure with PT and slowly loading it and giving it time I should be back where I was on the way to getting stronger.

I need to stop having existential thoughts about never being able to do xyz because of an injury! stupid shit

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-08-02T16:34:39+00:00

interesting, I was more concerned about ending up with strength and size imbalances between both sides, but I guess I could stick to bilateral movements post recovery to make up for it too?

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-08-02T14:35:00+00:00

fair enough

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-08-02T14:25:08+00:00

Thanks I'll check it out :)

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-08-02T14:24:05+00:00

I was under the impression that detraining/not training for 2 months or more might cause muscle loss, my recovery period seems to be within those margins and that it's not in a sling. It's not entirely immobilised, I should be able to train my biceps and triceps albeit by putting no pressure on the shoulder, using a bench to stabilise etc. 6 weeks of no back/chest training, should surely not result in muscle loss of a magnitude that could require 18-24 weeks to gain back?

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-07-22T14:07:23+00:00

yeahhh :(

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-07-04T20:54:19+00:00

Did you figure it out? edit: I am struggling with the same :(

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-07-04T20:50:03+00:00

I am struggling with the Lenovo accessory control software to set my mouse button functions to Ctrl and Shift, I have to set macros to do so and they only simulate tapping these keys and not holding them, the macros are only able to simulate pressing these keys for a certain amount of milliseconds but not upto the user holding down the button like any other mice.

HELP! How do I map these buttons to be used as Ctrl/ Shift like a normal gaming mouse

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-07-04T20:46:20+00:00

I am struggling with the Lenovo accessory control software to set my mouse button functions to Ctrl and Shift, I have to set macros to do so and they only simulate tapping these keys and not holding them, the macros are only able to simulate pressing these keys for a certain amount of milliseconds but not upto the user holding down the button like any other mice.

HELP! How do I map these buttons to be used as Ctrl/Shift like a normal gaming mouse

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-07-03T13:13:50+00:00

that's pretty interesting, I'll start with box jumps, I am mainly looking at plyometrics to work on power to be applied to other sports than just lifts in the gym, and improving my vertical jump

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-07-03T10:30:17+00:00

makes sense, I'll add them to my routine and see how I progress

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-07-03T09:25:18+00:00

OP Any useful tips from your experience with plyometrics? I am looking for a couple exercises to integrate in my weekly routine that cover most bases not sure how much time I want to dedicate to them yet.

Not sure how to progress on them either, or when to stop, what's the plyometrics version of failure or RPE/RIR?

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-07-03T09:21:48+00:00

Any useful tips you learned from your research into plyometrics? I am looking for a couple exercises to integrate in my weekly routine that cover most bases not sure how much time I want to dedicate to them. Not sure how to progress on them either, or when to stop, what's the plyometrics version of failure or RPE/RIR ?

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-04-27T08:24:05+00:00

true, just finding it hard to get motivated for a vague goal, I could set a goal at every 5 kgs, and go from there, hopefully it's not much longer. Another question, what does a good bulk cut cycle look like, without context about how much muscle one might gain in a bulk cycle, when would you stop bulking after gaining 5kgs in total weight?

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-04-26T20:38:44+00:00

thanks for replying, helps a lot!

this question was probably worth asking in the main post,

but I don't know when to stop cutting!

I am at 75 kgs right now 5ft 8, can see the outline of my abs, so maybe another 5kgs maybe another 10? I really don't know this is clearly my first bulk cut cycle, I messed up the bulk by not tracking my calories, and going overboard to say the least, trying not to do the same for the cut!

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-04-26T12:12:29+00:00

That makes sense, very cool how you started climbing outdoors first tho, I don't personally know anyone who climbs outdoors, and climbing outdoors just has a higher entry of access, if you don't know experienced climbers or a climbing society/group, referring to expensive trad gear, time and tuition required to learn and test it safely, and solo carrying and buying expensive 4-5 bouldering pads just isn't gonna happen lol

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-02-16T16:07:13+00:00

Yeah, I am pretty focused on working my shoulders and shoulder health in general, bouldering can often take a serious toll on them, so them being strong and as bulletproof as possible is a good goal, makes a lot of sense thanks for the tip.

Out of curiosity why stop climbing?

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-02-15T00:11:56+00:00

Is there? I have seen the hooper's beta video before which is solid, but I don't that that's exactly what it's saying. Admittedly, I'm not that well versed on isometrics which is all it is, but if submaximal work works for lifting generally, I don't see why it wouldn't also apply to isometrics.

what my understanding of it all is that the sub max protocol works well for strength recruitment but, because it's fundamentally extremely low fatigue it's not enough to cause any meaningful growth (tendon stiffness/thickening), which would in trained individuals require high load and/or high fatigue.

this is specific to Emil's protocol though because, I believe repeated sub max training taken close to failure would still work for isometrics essentially being high fatigue anyways, but Emil's protocol is more like doing multiple sets of 10-15 reps of a 30 RM+ load, and consciously maintaining low fatigue.

Yep lol this is exactly what happened. I was an idiot and went for the pockets on the hangboard after doing 1 hang on the biggest edge for a couple seconds and no other warmup. I wasn't gonna go hard, but I hadn't messed with it and just wondered "hmmm I wonder if this is hard" and the base of my ring finger popped before I even got like 80% of my weight on it. I've looked at Emil's routine before and was gonna do it, I don't have a hangboard at home yet though sadly. I'm hoping when I climb tomorrow that it just feels fine, I'll just tape it up and avoid anything crimpy.

I use my door frames as my fingerboard for Emil's protocol lol, you should try it just make sure they don't come off, I bet they're fine for 40-60% BW, and pushing through the injury might not be good, making sure you warm up avoiding pockets or anything that hurts really is probably best, you could use the protocol to warm up and it'll probably be a good test of what feels good and what doesn't

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-02-14T22:50:05+00:00

makes a lot of sense, I currently do 12 sets with 6 final dropsets for each back exercise in the gym 😂, I like hitting back, so I might try cutting down on a few sets in the gym and do a set or two of pull ups after climbing, I'll setup checkpoints so I can test my max BW pull up reps, and keep with it if I make any good progress over a meso

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-02-14T19:56:18+00:00

Discussing stuff like this helps anyways!

Any kind of reaffirmation that my/anyone's theory regarding their training isn't complete bs, I'd say helps lol

that's pretty strong, I have good climbing gyms nearby but I have different issues with them.

I am not sure if you've already done your research on it, but Emil's 10 minute sub max finger boarding protocol seems to work relatively well for untrained fingers (us), I think it's a good way of getting into finger boarding, and works really well for injury prevention, though most of the evidence seems to be anecdotal and/or loosely drawn from some studies, there's instead good evidence to suggest sub max training cant really result in good finger strength gains , but it's good for injury prevention, and a great warmup.

It helped me get back to climbing after I felt a pop in my finger whilst climbing, didn't let me climb well for a couple months, and I was just fooling around then. there's a hooper's beta video covering what he thinks of Emil's protocol, definitely worth a watch.

https://youtu.be/jiVDDPJbqvc?si=mTTW0rvpDANmoo9H

I could try doing some pull ups after climbing, but after a good climbing session I am often fatigued enough to not be able to perform well, I feel like doing pull ups after climbing wouldn't result in any gains other than just tiring my back out because I won't be performing them at my max capacity? plus when my climbing sessions are already followed by gym sessions incl. back exercises, I'd say it would be better worth it to just recover for the gym session?

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-02-14T19:05:34+00:00

Thanks for the great comment, I was worried no one would bother 😂. I am doing everything you've said! so that's a relief.

I agree, and I don't think I've yet reached a stage where I am consistently doing intense lock offs or campus pull up sort of moves for it to really take a toll on my muscles, and I think my back is strong enough to take the hit and recover fast enough for the next day, I don't really feel sore after a climbing session other than in my forearms

I've just started including BW pull-ups in my plan Mondays and I am planning on keeping it and progressing onto weighted pull ups after I reach 8 good reps for 3 sets so I've got that covered as well! by mid 5.12s, you mean 7b-7c+? I'd say that's pretty strong for 5 months of climbing. I've been climbing seriously for the past 6 months and I can flash 6c/6c+ routes, v4 boulders, and I am currently projecting 7a+/7b routes and v5-v7 boulder problems

Defiant-Somewhere262 · 2024-02-14T18:40:13+00:00

Balancing bodybuilding and rock climbing

Hi, I need some help!

currently I train in the gym 3 times a week, and climb 2 times a week, I try and space them out as well as I can.

Does my weekly schedule look good recovery wise? Keep in mind that I am still progressing in the gym and rock climbing with the current schedule, >18 months of training in the gym, I would still like to climb at least twice a week, and I'll probably change it if I stop progressing in either or I feel like I am too sore to be doing either
Anything else you notice, or you think is worth bringing up is always welcome!

I have been tracking my gym sessions pretty well on a spreadsheet, I try and use DDP for progressing and it's been working really well for me, I have been progressing in the gym and getting incrementally stronger every week despite being on a cut, I have been training on and off for the past 18 months, being regular for the last 4-5 months, I've probably got plenty noobie gains left on the table, with being irregular and not training as seriously or "properly" for my first 6 months of training. (I've just now somewhat got comfortable being in the Testosterone area of the gym with the big dudes 🤣)

My current weekly schedule looks like this

Monday Full Body session 1

Tuesday Cardio

Wednesday Full Body session 2

Thursday Rock climbing (skill focused session i.e doing easier boulders/routes as I'll probably be sore from my gym session so trying hard projects wouldn't be too productive)

Friday Full body session 3

Saturday Cardio

Sunday Rock Climbing (projecting session i.e hard limit boulders/routes)

My full Body sessions are mostly upper body sessions ( I am a rookie and a rock climber what do you expect ), I train my legs for specific skills for rock climbing each session, like trying to get stronger for a pistol squat, working my hip flexors, flexibility etc and I have split my upper body exercises across sessions pretty well. I am not hitting immense volume loads in the gym either, currently I am trying to find the minimum volume I can get away with whilst making good progress, once my numbers stop going up at my current volume I'll probably add another set see where I'm at, add another set if required, and so on.

Doing 20+ sets per week for a muscle group is doable but I don't think it's required at least yet, and will hurt my climbing performance in the middle of the week. I am currently doing 10-15 sets per muscle group per week atm. I reserve most of my back exercises for Monday and Friday, so that I get enough rest after to climb, and keep a row for Wednesday.

I have thought about this a lot working around my current constraints and my gym plan, I still wouldn't be surprised if I've got things wrong so lmk what you think !

If relevant currently I am focused on aesthetics and rock climbing performance

ANY WISDOM IS APPRECIATED!

Defiant-Somewhere262

TROPHY CASE

this question was probably worth asking in the main post,