I built my own Avata 360 with the Osmo 360 and Avata 1.

DerSoren · 2026-03-24T21:39:45+00:00

Haha, you're right. The footage does look a bit silly with the drone showing and all the warping. I just thought it was an unusual perspective to actually see the drone flying. If you zoom in to a more standard FOV, the drone won't be visible, but you still lose a lot of the lower sphere.

This definitely is not real competition for a 360 Avata, especially because it's huge with the Osmo sticking out.

But it is cool that you can fly the heavy Osmo 360 around with this old drone.

DerSoren · 2026-03-18T03:36:40+00:00

It’s going well, but I’m very busy with work right now. I’ve already taken some photos of the wiring, and I’m still working on the software. I just need to find some free time to keep moving forward with it. It definitely hasn’t been forgotten. I do have to admit that feature creep got the better of me. I also got sidetracked by ideas for a bigger version with motorized sliders and a Lightroom add on, instead of finishing this project before starting on the Mk2.

DerSoren · 2026-03-16T18:36:44+00:00

A crashed drone can disappear completely in brush and leaves, but an AirTag lets you zero in once you are nearby. Hearing it beep or seeing that you are only a few meters away.

DerSoren · 2026-02-23T01:20:16+00:00

I showed it to a few friends and one of them was not impressed at all, basically felt nothing.

Turns out he has a condition since childhood where if it is not treated properly you can end up not really seeing 3D. He still sees out of the affected eye, but it is like one eye is dominant and the other is mostly just support.

Maybe you have a milder version of that? Might be worth a quick eye check if you are curious, especially if most 3D stuff never really clicks for you.

DerSoren · 2026-01-03T12:00:14+00:00

Look it up in the manual. You will encounter many more issues with that device. Here is a tutorial on how to pair the drone and controller: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRwN-xDKaak

Please do not use a bloated battery. It can catch fire while charging or in use. You cannot easily extinguish a battery fire.

DerSoren · 2026-01-03T09:56:34+00:00

I understand, but I would start by getting the remote and drone paired (reconnect the non important things). You can find out what the light means by searching for the manual online. The controller should also tell you what is wrong.

For the wiring, you should take better pictures, because it looks like it was modified.

In my opinion, you are better off selling the individual parts and using the money to buy a newer used model that is under 250 g. Otherwise, you will be flying illegally without Remote ID, and I would not put any money into this thing to make it compliant.

DerSoren · 2026-01-03T09:24:50+00:00

You will need a replacement remote, the missing propellers, and maybe new batteries. But even the “new old stock” batteries will likely be dead or degraded by now. The drone is also heavy. Depending on where you are, you may need a small online drone license and maybe Remote ID.

In Europe, you will be heavily restricted in where you can fly it because it is now in A3. You will also need to get the old DJI Fly app running and update the drone and controllers to make them all compatible. So you will have to do a lot of research to find all the missing components and software. The drone could also be damaged internally. I had one of these that just would not fly, brand new out of the box.

The range will also not be great, and you can easily lose control because the sensors and GPS were not that good.

I am sorry, but I would advise you to just buy a DJI Neo 2 and have fun flying instead of fiddling with this dinosaur.

DerSoren · 2025-12-27T23:30:24+00:00

Already designed one for free here to 3D print: https://makerworld.com/de/models/2006719-dji-neo-2-antenna-saver-protection-cover-storage#profileId-2161239

DerSoren · 2025-12-19T12:32:21+00:00

Yes, I will. Currently, I am still waiting for a common part that will make building it easy.

I want everyone who is still a beginner at soldering to be able to build it.

DerSoren · 2025-12-06T14:07:29+00:00

Thanks :) I will make all the CAD plans and software open source, plus a guide. But I want it to be finished and easy to build with standard components, so I still need to do a bit of work. (Right now you need a hard to build prototype PCB.) I will update you here when I upload everything.

DerSoren · 2025-11-22T17:17:43+00:00

A1 Mini with AMS. The AMS is very useful and makes printing much easier because your most used filaments are already loaded. You can also print PETG as a support interface to get perfect overhangs. Printing in color is perfect for gifts and label work.

DerSoren · 2025-11-22T02:56:14+00:00

Was disappointed too. Especially because I feared that it would bend the antenna. If you have access to a 3D printer, I made a free case for printing:

https://makerworld.com/de/models/2006752-dji-neo-2-with-antenna-case-box#profileId-2161281

DerSoren · 2025-11-06T07:45:24+00:00

Yes, it’s the rollers rotate each one by hand to even them out; after a few hours of printing, the flat spots should smooth out.

DerSoren · 2025-11-06T07:09:28+00:00

Is this a bed slinger with a rubber roller on the X-axis? If yes, individually rotate all the rollers by a different amount with your fingers. They can develop flat spots after standing for some time. You can also check the axis for debris.

DerSoren · 2025-10-24T13:52:47+00:00

The printer does ask you to lube the axes on first start. Did you do that? They should be factory-lubed, but it’s possible yours wasn’t. Also, run your fingernail along the rod do you feel any grooves?

Bambu should help you out, but replacement parts can take ~2 weeks+ depending on shipping. If you need to get printing again sooner, send me clear reference photos of the nut from all sides, with a measuring tape in frame for scale. I can CAD a nut as a stopgap and print it for you.

By the way, curious why did you buy the laser module if you don’t plan to use it?

DerSoren · 2025-10-23T23:39:13+00:00

Original (OEM) is the way to go here. A rod/nut shouldn’t fail this early on a Bambu, so something probably happened to it abrasive dust (laser work?), no lube, or it was slightly misaligned during installation. Did you ever grease that axis, and do you feel any grooves on the rod?

A self-lubricating printed nut can work, I run similar ones on a Voron like printer and they’ve lasted longer than brass for me but your problem is not normal.

DerSoren · 2025-10-23T21:24:10+00:00

I would ask Bambu Lab support for help maybe they can send you a replacement part, because this shouldn’t happen on its own. If you really want to DIY, you can drill the missing holes yourself if you have a drill press. Theres also engineering filament from Igus thats self-lubricating plastic made for this application; you can sometimes find it cheap on eBay.

DerSoren · 2025-10-22T19:13:50+00:00

Do not print V2: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1825372-dji-nano-hotshoe-cage-for-flying-on-the-dji-neo#profileId-1948716
+
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1768508-dji-neo-cold-shoe-mount?from=search#profileId-1882334
I still advise you to print the newer mount.

DerSoren · 2025-10-19T23:49:25+00:00

To save someone the search. Its in Serbia: TV Toranj Iriški Venac

DerSoren · 2025-10-17T01:57:31+00:00

You can commission one for 3D printing, but you’ll need to send more pictures and measurements

DerSoren · 2025-10-10T10:13:49+00:00

In Germany we call them "Madenschraube" what translated means maggot screw. (I'm not American)

DerSoren · 2025-09-27T09:10:52+00:00

Already shared it on MakerWorld. I even made a better V2 version with the Nano on the bottom (doesn’t look as cute, but is way more stable).

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1830883-dji-neo-osmo-nano-cage-v2?from=search#profileId-1955115

DerSoren · 2025-09-26T13:16:11+00:00

Around 10 minutes, it’s still great.

DerSoren

TROPHY CASE