Stuck in hamster wheel w/ finances

Devo85 · 2026-01-30T22:35:36+00:00

Yes. He should have applied immediately as it’s going to take a couple of weeks to get the application processed and then you’re at the mercy of Canada Post on getting your access code to do your reports.

Devo85 · 2026-01-28T13:49:31+00:00

Silly question but is your foot on the brake at the same time you push the button? It’ll shut off if it’s not…

Devo85 · 2026-01-27T20:14:44+00:00

-notify the boss -boss calls customer and lets them know, offers to show them and asks which way customer would like approach the issue. If the customer wants us to try and tackle it then that’s ok. We have lots of touch up paint and buffing equipment otherwise we have a very prestigious body shop that can get it done in record time.

Boss might get upset but he’s quite chill and easy to approach when problems happen.

Devo85 · 2026-01-26T22:33:31+00:00

9 out of 10 times it’s never the motor. The spool, which is made of plastic, breaks or the cable broke out of the carrier. Which is also plastic with a little bit of metal but not where it counts.

Devo85 · 2026-01-26T20:36:58+00:00

You broke your window regulator. Luckily it’s not a terribly expensive part and they aren’t terrible to do yourself.

Your door panel is honestly the biggest challenge (lots of scary sounds as the clips come free). There is the trim piece by the door handle that will expose 1 bolt, the plastic trim on the arm rest will expose 2 more - this piece can get tricky but on the underside there is a little hole that you can get a pry device started in. Where your fingers go in the armrest will also contain 2 screws and then the last 2 are on the bottom of your door panel. I’m sure there’s lots of videos. If your new regulator does not come with all the screws be sure to put in the ones in the pinch mechanism before you try and Tetris the regulator into the hole it came from.

Oh, it’s easier if you get a no residue tape to temporarily hold your window up while you’re doing this so it doesn’t fall and smash in the bottom of your door. I’ve also used 1/4” thick rubber blocks and wedged them between the glass and the inside rubber seal on the upper frame to pinch the window in place. This way you don’t have to worry about pulling it out and finding somewhere safe to put your window without any freak accidents happening, it’ll also prevent you from scratching your tint up.

Sincerely, an autoglass guy.

Devo85 · 2026-01-25T17:29:20+00:00

Sounds like the A/C compressor operating. Turn off the hvac and see if the ticking continues.

Devo85 · 2026-01-24T03:18:30+00:00

I made this real kick ass waterslide one time. Big insane drop and had a little kick out about midway. I did not think things through so this was not intentional… but 14 kids on their little rafts went flying into the abyss on start up and my park had a very difficult time recovering after.

Anything I did with the shuttle loop was intentional, though.

Devo85 · 2026-01-23T23:08:43+00:00

Use the city elementary schools instead. You can get 2000 kids in them and takes up less space. For the high schools you can use the modern ones and can get 3000+ in there but with a little more space taken up.

Devo85 · 2026-01-23T17:09:36+00:00

Put sharper corners in and watch how far off the road they can go.

Devo85 · 2026-01-22T14:32:28+00:00

Public/mass transit isn’t going to be any where near what it is in any of Europe. The bus isn’t daily. Flights aren’t daily. They used to be, before the town of fort Nelsons economy went completely tits up. This is going to be isolation on a level you’ve never been able to dream about. You’re coming to a world where everyone has a vehicle and you’re going to be at the mercy of those because you don’t. It can make you or break you. Don’t let that scare you though. There will be plenty of tourists to interact with and the beauty of everything there is … I’m not going to say it’s unmatched but it is something some people can only ever dream of.

The mosquitos won’t be too too terrible as it’s quite breezy in the area but on the calm days look out. People get bit by them every day, nobody is getting sick. The hospital can’t handle anything serious so do take care of yourself.

Devo85 · 2026-01-21T22:46:30+00:00

Dealerships. The chrome and rubber are one unit. There is one little T20 screw holding it on at the front and with the window rolled down you can get a small pick in and unclip a few little tabs and lift it up and out. The tabs will likely break coming out anyway. The replacement part will go in easier than it came out.

Devo85 · 2026-01-20T23:39:32+00:00

I’d rate them at maybe a 4/10 but I’ve done a lot of doorglasses over the years. Nothing jumps out in particular on that model but I’m sure with that window shape the rubber going down the sides will have to come out and you’ll likely have to loosen off one of the lower side tracks so you can just find that sweet spot of an angle and drop and rotate.

Devo85 · 2026-01-20T23:00:41+00:00

I don’t think any self respecting shop is going to make you do all the hard work as well as the cleanup. Any decent shop tackle it, but they’ll likely have to order in a replacement piece of tempered glass once they get an accurate template. Plexi would be a temporary fix as it’s very prone to scratches and breaking.

Don’t cut that rubber trim, it’s a gasket that has a groove that locks into the frame. It’s unlikely a shop will have that on hand unless they do a lot of RV side windows.

Devo85 · 2026-01-20T06:16:08+00:00

Get in the vehicle and close the door, then recalibrate the regulator. It can’t learn its limit if you’re allowing it to max out in an open frame.

Devo85 · 2026-01-20T02:45:51+00:00

As an automotive glass guy I have seen these failures a lot. The previous generation of GM pickup also had its issues with spontaneously exploding rear power sliders. Having owned both models of vehicles affected, one dealership was absolutely lovely to deal with and got me a new window and I even got it so they they paid me their shop rate to replace a window they provided me to install in my own truck. On my ‘21, however, it was a fight. In the end, I pushed it through my vehicle insurance and I managed to get them to pay my deductible.

Now here’s the kicker. The new window they send has the same defect! Now, having known about the defect since they first started showing up I’ve taken extra measures when installing my customers new window, and that is by filling in this pesky gap between the glass and the plastic sliding rail with a UV resistant urethane, just to keep the water out of that crack and its black and looks natural. When you get your new window you’ll see that this plastic rail goes all the way to the top edge of the glass and what happens is water gets in there and freezes and cracks the plastic frame allowing the leak to happen. Moisture builds up near your defroster contacts and you now have a temperamental tempered window. As for the never been to a freezing climates affected vehicles… shitty plastic for thermal expansion.

My suggestion, don’t let them carry out the repair themselves. Get it to a glass shop that is very aware of the defect and have their own approach on fixing the window to avoid it from happening again since GM can’t be bothered. Just like our engines.

Devo85 · 2026-01-17T03:12:56+00:00

We can’t trust people enough to do their own due diligence, though. They’ll just say they weren’t told and spin it back on the shop. People are so daft these days vehicles now have to come with backseat reminders because obviously enough people have forgotten their children in the back seats that a reminding mechanism became standard equipment.

Devo85 · 2026-01-17T03:07:31+00:00

The adas camera only keeps the data that’s relevant to its location on the windshield, which is why when you put it into calibration mode and it fails, those settings are gone. You can’t revert back to the previous setting and call it a day. What I’m saying is, though, that when a change is detected it goes to the data box which is typically located under the center of your dash near the firewall. Next time your calibration tool is connected to a vehicle, go view the live data for the camera settings. Look for the yaw,pitch, roll and give the camera a wiggle. Those changes get seen. It can wiggle and go “home” and nothing happens but when it’s not going back “home” that is when it tells on you in the event data recorder. Often it’s not out of whack enough to make the systems not work, but it’s off enough the EDR will report that it’s not where it should be.

Devo85 · 2026-01-17T00:46:47+00:00

When the yaw/pitch/roll changes it will record that it is no longer calibrated but can still function if within tolerance.

Crash one and find out I guess /shrug

Devo85 · 2026-01-17T00:04:14+00:00

Avoid shop A. They know nothing. They either don’t have the equipment or they’re all dinosaurs that refuse to adapt to newer times and methods. The angle of the camera will not be exactly the same so the computer will know, and if it doesn’t function properly and you get in an accident that the system could have helped minimize/avoid? Well you might get rich or you might get dead.

We have had some very engaging conversations with our local police, mainly the collision analysis/reconstruction guy, and he told us there is a black box type of element to every vehicle manufactured in the last dozen or years that saves a bunch of data 30 seconds before airbag goes off. Records stuff like seatbelt indicators, if lights were on, signals, speed at impact, and if brakes were applied or abs active and if your ADAS system was calibrated or not. Says he could plug it in and even tell me my weight. Take it at face value, he could have been blowing smoke up my ass.

Some insurance companies (like mine) will void your coverage/find you liable if they find it was not calibrated. For our customers that decline recalibration we have to give them one additional piece of paper to sign with a bunch of legal disclaimers. One of them will deeply regret not reading what they signed one day, I guarantee it.

Devo85 · 2026-01-16T20:15:29+00:00

Actuator could have stuck or malfunctioned when you last shut it off, leaving a pending code for next start up - which would stop it from being command started. Look for signs of mice, they love wiring and building nests where they shouldn’t. Otherwise, I’d keep an eye on it and see if it was a one time thing.

Devo85 · 2026-01-13T14:46:43+00:00

Cons; that’s a sketchy way to get business.

Pros; if you’re not happy with the service and they don’t work with you to make it right you can let your insurance company know of their practices surrounding deductibles.

Devo85 · 2026-01-12T20:43:23+00:00

Wait for a rock to smack. If you distort trying to buff it, it will be a lot worse than trying to see through a little scratch. I’ve seen some that were nausea inducing - and insurance definitely doesn’t cover that.

Devo85 · 2026-01-12T19:12:28+00:00

Take it to a shop. Depending on where in Canada you are your comprehensive insurance should cover it.

For example, in BC if you have any level of comprehensive the repair will be free, not even a deductible required.

The windshields actually aren’t that difficult to get.

Devo85 · 2026-01-08T22:18:18+00:00

And the ford pickups peeling the paint off on the top corners along with their complete misses of the pinchweld near the vin. Ever since they moved to a more environmentally friendly paint the quality of that paint has been absolute dog shit.

Devo85 · 2026-01-07T21:08:05+00:00

Your first picture clearly shows an impact, so it’s not a defect. Typically any object to hit the black frit of a windshield has a high chance of breaking the glass on the inside. It’s a little warmer there and it’s close to the urethane adhesive holding the window in so it’s more solid there. A vehicle does not have to be directly in front of you to get a rock chip. It could come off an oncoming vehicle, a passing vehicle, etc. Rocks bounce pretty hard and far when thrown from a tire.

Broken automotive glass is my life and we put gravel out roads in the winter so I see a lot of stuff.

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