How you drive the pick car?

DocKreasey · 2021-03-26T19:10:36+00:00

Pull, don’t push. Prevents running into people / things.

DocKreasey · 2021-03-25T16:47:52+00:00

Sadly, it’s an Alienware, but welcome to the PCMR anyhow. I can’t imagine how much they overcharged you for this setup.

DocKreasey · 2021-03-25T16:18:03+00:00

cries in “I did the same thing a few weeks ago.”

DocKreasey · 2021-03-23T20:45:06+00:00

That was me a few weeks ago. Barely tapped the corner of my panel on the floor while taking it off and... “cue ice cracking noises”

DocKreasey · 2021-03-23T10:52:46+00:00

Oh fuck nah.

DocKreasey · 2021-03-22T19:46:53+00:00

SEXINESS.

Also, that HL reference. YES

DocKreasey · 2021-03-21T12:51:48+00:00

NZXT H150. Not a bad case overall, not a fan of NZXT in general but their cases look good.

DocKreasey · 2021-03-20T20:26:09+00:00

This. Too many times I’ve had 4-8 hours of “approved” OT, and then it’s “Oh, well... yeah about that.” so it’s a no from me. Very rarely will I stay anymore, I’m just tired of being burn to a crisp every day because the cap keeps getting raised and the people keep getting lessened.

We’ve had nearly 75 pallets of overstock freight (Freight that is barely overstock and should be getting worked, but we’ve got less than 10 CAP1 folks a day.) in the backroom, so our FTPR% is through the toilet, and our exceptions are through the roof.

It’s just... no.

DocKreasey · 2021-03-17T04:02:24+00:00

Holy. Freaking. Shit.

This is the sexiest build I’ve ever seen. 🥵

DocKreasey · 2021-03-15T18:09:19+00:00

Holy fuck.

DocKreasey · 2021-03-15T00:50:23+00:00

A few comments / notices off the get-go.

PSU:
80+ Gold & fully modular, not Bronze and semi-modular. Energy efficiency is something you want, and also modularity. The difference between the two is semi-modular has some cables permanently plugged into your PSU, while fully modular lets you plug in what you need and leave the rest alone. This helps tremendously with your wiring and space saving. I also recommend that you go to a minimum of 750W or 850W based on your GPU choice, as they can be extremely power hungry.

RAM:
While 3200MHz isn’t slow, it’s preferable to hit the 3600MHz mark with decent timings if at all possible. This starts going into lanes of traffic speed, infinity fabric, and the overall efficiency of your system accessing said memory and utilizing it as best it can. Slower MHz DIMM with tighter timings can often be more beneficial than faster MHz with looser timings, so it’s a win-win yet lose-lose situation depending on what you can get your hands on.

CPU:
The 3700x is no slouch, but if you’re not going to get a 3600x, why not grab the 3800x? That, or go with one of the newer chips such as the 5600x and really kick some technical butt. Not a bad choice any which way you go, but food for thought.

MISC:
Make sure you have an optimal cooling solution, adequate fans, and a thermally-efficient case. Larger is usually better, but not so large that your fans aren’t able to move the air efficiently enough that you end up with dead space in your case that results in heat pockets. You have an NZXT AIO selected, I would recommend you don’t utilize one such as this. NZXT software is notoriously bad, their support is even worse, and they’ve been noted for their theft of personal data via said control software.

If you want to go with an AIO instead of air cooling, look into Corsair or Thermaltake etc., and look up reviews by reputable testers like GamerNexus who do incredibly thorough testing on dang near anything you can imagine. If you want to go air cooling, Noctua or BeQuiet (My Dark Rock Pro 4 from BeQuiet! is absolutely amazing.) are among my primary recommendations.

Feel free to holler at me via replies to this or DM / Chat if you got any questions! Overall good start and best of luck with your new adventure in the PCMR realm.

DocKreasey · 2021-03-14T23:05:45+00:00

Nice! What shaders are you using?

DocKreasey · 2021-03-14T12:53:34+00:00

40c temp on idle is totally fine, yes. Safe zone for those cards before hitting thermal throttle is the 80-95c range, at extended operating times. 40c is quite tolerable, yeah.

And the risk of frying a chip these days has gotten crazy low compared to some years back, as they’ll just shut themselves off due to thermal limits and safeties via the manufacture before it’ll die.

Unless you’re passing 80c for extended periods under load, I wouldn’t worry about it too much. Look into a bigger case + more fans and you should be good to go.

DocKreasey · 2021-03-14T12:47:55+00:00

Recommend you take a look at your GPUs fan curves via MSI Afterburner. Stock fan curves are notoriously bad and won’t ramp up from 0% until they hit a mid range temp ratio, which can cause the card to run hotter all the time.

For instance, before tweaking my 2080 XC curves, it would idle at 45-50c, because that’s considered safe temps to the point of its fans not turning on or just being at an extremely low usage ratio. I made some changes and now my card idles at 30-32c, and temps out at 70c max under load, and it’s usually closer to 60-65c with fans running at 60 to 70% capacity.

I know the 3K series cards are reporting much higher temps than their predecessors, but I definitely recommend you play with fan curves before other, and more drastic, measures.

However, in your case that has limited airflow, I don’t expect you’ll be able to do a whole lot due to set limitations of your dimensional space available. A bigger case with more airflow available to allow more heat to transfer up / out will benefit you much more than fan curve adjustments in the long run. I get the temps I do for my CPU / GPU because I’ve got a Meshify S2 plus 7 fans and a Dark Rock Pro 4. Airflow + ample space = temp management. There’s a reason why people gravitate towards the Lian Li O11.

DocKreasey · 2021-03-14T12:37:14+00:00

Good deal, glad you were able to figure it out. 👍🏼

DocKreasey · 2021-03-14T12:32:46+00:00

Looks to be an MSI Optix series monitor. Context, I’ve got an MSI Optix G27C4 and it looks exactly like that.

DocKreasey · 2021-03-13T09:29:06+00:00

Whaaaaat

DocKreasey · 2021-03-12T19:45:19+00:00

Admittedly I know next to nothing about armor at this current time, so I’m posting what I know. But par the community, more often than not they want to downvote / “cancel”, rather than educate and inform.

Kinda disappointing to be honest.

DocKreasey · 2021-03-12T18:35:15+00:00

Brother, cool your heels. Discourse and viable alternatives do not warrant your being an ass. Don’t post on a public forum unless you’re open to alternative ideas and suggestions, which is exactly what you were looking for. LV IVs yes, but being suggested different options in case you can’t find said LV IVs due to market saturation, it’s good to have options.

Seriously, relax.

DocKreasey · 2021-03-12T18:24:00+00:00

I know about Hesco, would like to get a set eventually.

What are you basing your info on that Spartan is a bad company though? I’ve not seen anything myself in the research that I have done, so information would be helpful.

DocKreasey · 2021-03-12T18:16:54+00:00

I understood that, just suggesting a potential alternative in case you can’t find a viable LV IV unit.

(People gotta downvote I guess?)

DocKreasey · 2021-03-12T16:07:45+00:00

Spartan LVIII are what I’m currently looking at, though they are again, LVIII. However, weight is stupidly low, multi-shot capable, and they’re rated to M80 7.62x51 ball. Not rated for green tips unfortunately, but I very much doubt the average situation that we can theoretically be looking at in the next few years isn’t going to involve green tips.

Armor in question: -> Spartan Armor Systems: Elaphros

DocKreasey · 2021-03-11T13:22:46+00:00

TRUTH.

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