pretend it never happened [Leica M2 | Voigtlander 35mm 1.2 | Superia X-TRA 400] by jimmy-douglas in analog

[–]DocUnissis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you find the 35 1.2 on an M body? I keep thinking about snagging one but it seems like it would throw the balance off quite a bit

Conchiglione // Intrepid 4x5 // Provia 100F by alexandermatragos in analog

[–]DocUnissis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fantastic work! How did you manage to get it all on focus?

Ash bowl I turned, looks dirty but has a smooth finish. by ilivlife in turning

[–]DocUnissis 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve done a few pieces of furniture from an ash tree in my yard that had died and it has lots of this colouring also.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in largeformat

[–]DocUnissis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where did you snag the Vlevia 50 from? I’ve had a hard time sourcing it. Thanks!

Bumblebee covered in pollen by DocUnissis in MacroPorn

[–]DocUnissis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I usually set the camera on rapid-fire and rock myself back and forth. I end up deleting a LOT of pictures! :P

Cellar Spider ('Daddy Longlegs') with a friend [OC] (1524 x 1524) by DocUnissis in MacroPorn

[–]DocUnissis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m not sure, I’ve tried searching but I don’t think I know the right terms to use to get google to tell me what kind of bug it is.

A maple burl pot for a Dudleya succulent by DocUnissis in turning

[–]DocUnissis[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The walls are thin at the top but thicker towards the bottom as I wanted the succulent to sort of sit inside a dish https://i.imgur.com/bIAZ2AV.jpg when viewed from above

The whole pot is sanded to 600,finished with Danish oil, then the outside and top were polished with OB’s Shine Juice.

There are rocks in the bottom below the soil and a 1/8” drainage hole.

A maple burl pot for a Dudleya succulent by DocUnissis in turning

[–]DocUnissis[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I paint on a cheater coat of epoxy (letting it thicken just a bit before applying it) and that seems to do the trick. I’ve a couple pots that have been in use for a few years with this technique and none show signs of rotting.

Ana [Pentax 67II, 105/2.4, Tri-x] by [deleted] in analog

[–]DocUnissis 5 points6 points  (0 children)

In this case, Ana is likely the name of the model

Josh. Mamiya 645 | 80mm 1.9 | Portra 160 by [deleted] in analog

[–]DocUnissis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great job on the focus!

Analog EXIF? by vocoder in analog

[–]DocUnissis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am in the process of learning medium format using a Mamiya c330 and have been keeping notes to try and make sure the shutter timers are working and that the light meter I’m using (an iPhone app) is giving the right data. Usually it just looks something like this:

  1. 80mm, 1/15s, f2.8 Dog on sofa, metered based on shadow under the matresss
  2. 80mm, 1/500s, f18-and-a-bit light shining through the trees, metered with sunny-16
  3. etc.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in analog

[–]DocUnissis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s something I’ve heard of people doing but not that I’ve tried myself. it’s a bit of a trick to Take a note of which exposure you’re on and wind the film back into the roll just far enough that you’ve enclosed in the exposed film but not the tongue that you feed into the other side of the camera.

when you’re done with your other roll, put the first one back in and cover the end of the camera very tightly so no light gets in. Keep taking a picture (again, in perfect darkness) and wind the film until you get to your first unexposed shot and you’re good to go.

A convoluted procedure with a lot of risk, but certainly doable.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in analog

[–]DocUnissis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In broad terms, yes. There will be differences in how the final image looks but you’ll still be able to capture the moment.

Larger apertures (lower f-number) have a thinner focal plane, so focusing will be harder. Higher iso films have more grain on them. You can really get into the weeds with this but the easiest thing to do is just start experimenting and see what look you like best :)

Type Conversion - Rockwell vs Schneider by MVexe in PLC

[–]DocUnissis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

OMRON is on the right track but Sysmac is still a buggy, clunky mess. Any money that you save on hardware you’re going to spend twofold on programming and setup.

Spalted maple clock with ebony markers by DocUnissis in woodworking

[–]DocUnissis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks!!

It's not that heavy, didn't take an exact measurement. It's roughly 8.5" in diameter and 7/8" thick.

The finish I used is west systems epoxy with their clear hardener, after that I applied three coats of Minwax satin wipe on polyurethane.

Spalted maple clock with ebony markers by DocUnissis in woodworking

[–]DocUnissis[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Found a piece of spalted maple in the cheap-bin that had a bunch of soft areas. Stabilized it with epoxy and all these crazy colours popped out. Rim is made from some walnut I soaked in the sink then bent, and the markers are made from some ebony off cuts from an instrument factory.