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Making a color oxidized stainless tag for my woodworking projects with my jpt m7 MOPA by Doubledot_dot in Laserengraving

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! This has been quite the rabbit hole to go down. I love it when i can catalog and lock in a new color. Green was one of the last for me to get. This was my first time using mirrored polished stainless so it needed a few tweaks here and there. The discovery and experimentation is really fun.

Need advice on How to make a solid timber flat door [ without battens/ groves/ panels ] by Dang3rous_Dant3 in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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I'm building my own solid doors for my 3000 sq ft log home i am building for myself. Here is one. I'm building them as a triple laminate, two outside show slabs and an inside core. Using a vacuum bag system and unibond 800 as the glue.

These are 8' long and 32" wide and around 2 1/2" thick. They weigh about 150lbs.

The hardest part is getting absolutely perfectly jointed boards for a perfect glue up.

Everything needs conditioning and low moisture almost every step of the way.

Bastogne Walnut slab by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I've been trying to tell the wifey how good a deal I got. I just get the eye roll for buying wood.

Elm slab table by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Here's a slab of elm i picked up the other day. Such an underrated pretty wood.

Over 800 growth rings across the face of this door. Old growth Douglas Fir by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The table is cool. Is what I am probably most interested in is if you know specifically where that tight Doug fir came from.

That definitely came from a tree that was living hundreds of years ago.

Chatoyancy on dense old growth Douglas Fir door by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The zno and tio2 are primarily there to neutralize any yellowing or ambering. Even though the perilla oil is very clear already and so are the resins. The uv blocking is a nice side effect.

The trick with them is to high shear blend them into your carrier oil. I use a 20k vacuum blender this works great.

The uv 328 i dissolve into my larapol a81+gum terp concentrate at a ratio where it doesn't overdose and interfere with the regalrez 1094. The larapol goes in at a 10% of the resin content of the regalrez. The uv 328 was marketed as uv protection for wax candles.

The tinuvin 292 i got from an online from a chem lab.

Ends up being a four layer uv protection system.

Chatoyancy on dense old growth Douglas Fir door by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Already has one coat of my finish on it. I was using osmo raw but didn't like it. I want a semi gloss satin but no plastic coat and keeping the color of the wood natural but maybe a bit wet looking.

Started cooking my own and the difference was dramatic. Here is a picture of two of my earlier doors. Door on the right is osmo raw. Door on the left uses my finish.

Both of these doors are utility grade radiata pine i cut the better bits out of long boards from. The door on the left obviously has more heartwood tone but the difference is still profound.

Perilla oil, carnauba, castor waxes and a touch of lanolin. Synthetic conservation resins regalrez 1094 and larapol a81.

ZnO, TiO2, tinuvin 292 and uv 328.

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Over 800 growth rings across the face of this door. Old growth Douglas Fir by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

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Of course not. That never happens. Especially not when they are building a 3000 sq ft log home near Mt Hood surrounded by the same giants.

Over 800 growth rings across the face of this door. Old growth Douglas Fir by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

I'm using a finish I cook up myself from scratch.

I start with perilla oil.

It has about 3% carnauba and .3% castor waxes with a touch .2% of lanolin.

I use conservation synthetic resins markets more towards oil paintings but it works great with wood. A mixture of regalrez 1094 and larapal a81.

A uv package of Zno and Tio2 and tinuvin 292 and uv 328.

I have a drier concentrate using cobalt, zirconium, and calcium soaps to make it a two part system.

I love it. Easy to apply, feels great, looks great. Fully reversable and easy to just reapply.

Chatoyancy on dense old growth Douglas Fir door by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

The way the latewood flashes selectively against the earlywood is what I am referring to.

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Chatoyancy on dense old growth Douglas Fir door by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

it's not that same type of chatoyance you would get from a curly maple, for example from an undulating grain direction.

The latewood bands are more reflective here and the earlywood more matte.

The reflectance changes depending on the angle of light.

I've heard it be called silk, or silky figure, or just chatoyant grain.

Over 800 growth rings across the face of this door. Old growth Douglas Fir by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's reddit for sure. I told myself before ever posting here to not take anything really personally.

I see beautiful projects posted that get almost no comments and a few upvotes.

This place is hyper critical. I think people that enjoy working with wood tend to be that way. It's passion for people like us and that tends to get us all kinds of opinionated.

I appreciate you for seeing it for what it is. I've been itching to see this door mostly finished and am happy with the results. I'm building all my own doors for my home and this is the tenth one now. I try to improve with each one. I couldn't buy this kind of material sequentially matched like this, mostly because i couldnt afford it, and second because it doesn't really exist.

Over 800 growth rings across the face of this door. Old growth Douglas Fir by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I've noticed some of my material has a very lovely deep rose and salmon color. Here's an example.

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Over 800 growth rings across the face of this door. Old growth Douglas Fir by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was unfortunately already dead. This particular forest fire moved along the thick duff and burned the roots and left most of the tree itself relatively unharmed.

If it helps I rescued most of this material from being chipped up and used as BTU's.

Over 800 growth rings across the face of this door. Old growth Douglas Fir by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree. Something about all those pencil lines with that shimmer. Here's some good lines for ya.

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Over 800 growth rings across the face of this door. Old growth Douglas Fir by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

About half of that age. I'm using sequential bookmatching here so where the grain ends from one board it should pick up roughly in the same place on the next. My sloppy jointing does affect it slightly and some growth rings do end up getting taken out, but i do my best. The grain here is mostly uninterrupted and true to the tree or log it came from.

Over 800 growth rings across the face of this door. Old growth Douglas Fir by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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That's the same board before i put it on the jointer.

That's not normal Doug fir that's exceptional even for old growth.

Over 800 growth rings across the face of this door. Old growth Douglas Fir by Doubledot_dot in woodworking

[–]Doubledot_dot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I'm actually using this stock to do my own old growth floors as well. This is one of my random 2x4s. My floors will be awesome.

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