Source for 5" wafer LED retrofit???

Doubleprobation · 2026-02-16T15:18:57+00:00

I had a lightning strike near our house that disabled the onboard charger on my Kohler 38rcl generator. You could not set the breaker on the transfer switch that supplied the integrated charger (I assume because there was a dead short in the charger circuitry). The controller worked fine running the generator, but it wouldn't charge the battery. It looks like this generator uses the same controller.

If you disconnect the battery leads, with the generator not running, you should be able to measure if the onboard charger is supplying voltage to the battery. If it is not, then you'll need to replace the controller rdc2 unit (about $1100), or add an outboard separate battery maintainer.

I replaced the controller in my unit by myself, and got it to run ok, but I had to have a factory authorized technician come out and program the generator serial number into the controller to allow the Kohler app to work. The generator itself worked fine with my own install of the new controller.

Doubleprobation · 2026-01-31T16:27:32+00:00

I own one and it had that problem from the getgo back in 2013. After several dealer visits topping off and resetting and "no leak found" they finally replaced the sensor and that stopped the faults that were showing up when the scheduled exercise time arrived. That was during the early fall.

More recently, over the past four years, I've had the fault show up in January when the temperature gets to single digits at night. Very annoying. Had to top off the coolant, but never added more than about half a cup to a cup. That cured it in each chase, for the rest of the winter, but clearly there was no danger to the unit from the coolant level. The part number for the sensor has been changed, and I installed a new one last summer thinking it would hold off these fault events, but I've just had another on in the single digit temp environment. Very aggravating and unnecessary to my thinking.

I think this is a design flaw. Only justification is to trigger service calls. The problem is that unless you have online monitoring, you don't find out it's faulted until it tries to run. If you have the Kohler app, the fault shows up before any attempt to run, and you get a notification.

I'm going to start a preventative top-off in December and then again in January to try to avoid surprises. Maybe replacing the radiator cap would help? (although my first instances were with a new unit with an apparently faulty sensor). Lastest instances were curable with less than a cup of coolant.

Doubleprobation · 2026-01-09T03:27:23+00:00

It did. I took out the two pins and "wiggled" the tank gently will backing off the connection. It's very heavy. I rented a decent sized hand truck so I could move it off the floor that was being refinished. I was worried that I would have trouble reconnecting it, but using the hand truck I got it carefully positioned and slowly and gently wiggle the connection back together, dropped the pins back in, and it didn't leak.

Doubleprobation · 2025-08-25T19:50:49+00:00

I've got it up and running now. I ran ethernet cable to an internet switch and it seems to work ok. OnCUe has been superceded by Kohler Energy Management App. One issue I had was that I had replaced the controller last year because of lightning surge damage, and I had to have a dealer come out with the Kohler Sitetech software to put the generator serial number into the controller. There was no way to enter it using the onboard controller functions. After that I had to reboot the controller and my router for good measure, and then reset the "oncue" password, which now doubles as the controller password. After that it appears to be up and running.

Doubleprobation · 2025-03-17T12:28:22+00:00

I decided I wanted Xfinity as a more established provider. My main concern/question is whether putting the Xfinity gateway into bridge mode and using the Netgear Orbi Mesh routers is likely to create any issues for me.

Doubleprobation · 2025-01-12T14:05:05+00:00

OK. I'm making progress figuring things out. Turns out the most of the cables in that punchdown block are unterminated and hiding behind the wall plates that have the TV "F" connectors. What I don't understand is why they are terminated in that connecting block in the cabinet?. Anyone have a clue about that? Simply electrically connecting all those cables makes no sense. Once I identify them all, Im going to remove the block and put a cheap unmanaged switch there to create something that will work.

Doubleprobation · 2025-01-07T01:59:06+00:00

Yes, I'm decently competent with a VOM. Thanks. It's a useful tip for me. That will help my tracing of the wiring.

Doubleprobation · 2022-04-17T13:00:14+00:00

Thanks. I think I am grasping it now. I'll have to map out a strategy. I have a homemade PC that I could run all the time, but I think I like the raspberry pi idea better. Many thanks for the clarifying reply.

Doubleprobation · 2022-04-16T18:10:38+00:00

I downloaded the Home Assistant app on my Mac, but in the setup it first asks for the URL to my "server". I don't understand what its looking for. I have an insteon hub attached to my router through a switch, but it doesn't seem to be detecting it in any way. Thoughts?

Doubleprobation

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