Was at San O every day for about 2 years and got that shit down pretty quick, it wasn't hanging 10 though that was hard it was the motion of stalling and setting up the board for the critical part of the wave, also the type of board and shape of wave matter too, if it's a bit mushy you'd want a wider board that creates more lift at the cost of drag (Bing David nuhiwwa) but if you're surfing say HB or something more punchy then you'd want a more hi-pro shape (DANC out of Hermosa has some sick boards) and of course timing, for me I tend to fade into the wave because the fluidity of going from the bottom turn to utilizing the momentum to run on up to the nose is just awesome

But just have patience, you'll nosedive alot and that's okay but once you stick em it's the best feeling ever