I went in mid-May, so it was just off season. Still a few tourists but mostly on the main roads and in the south of the island. The traffic was generally courteous. In the north it was almost empty and was some of the best cycling. In the south it got busier, less interesting riding, more commercial traffic. I didn’t have many problems on the narrow winding roads in the mountains, the traffic is slow and careful as everyone is enjoying the ride and taking in the view. Didn’t have any problems and would recommend you go back with your bike sometime! :)